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Old 03-11-2012, 08:35 PM   #1
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Hot water heater.

Have not done much investigating yet but figured I would throw this out there now in case someone can save me some aggrivation.

2000 T2753 with a gas hot water heater. When I turn on the switch behind the sink the light comes on for about 5 seconds then goes off.

Any ideas where to start, bought this unit last year and have no idea if it worked or not when the previous owner had it...

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:58 PM   #2
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I sure wish you would have posted this earlier! It would have given me another reason to deliver your awning arm!!!!

Does your monitor panel have the tiny fault indicator light, between the WH and pump buttons? When you turn it on, do you hear any clicking noises from the WH? If your WH switch is a completely separate switch from the monitor panel, the light going off could be an ignition failure.

The first thing I would try, is to clean the ignition electrodes.. Dirty electrodes will keep the burner from igniting.

What model is your WH? I believe most of the water heaters in the 2000MY were gas/electric... If you look on the back of the unit, it would have a black switch for the electric...
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:49 AM   #3
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can you hear it trying to light? If it hasn't been used in awhile, the gas is not to the water heater yet and you will have to cycle it many times before it will light. Sometimes I just go out and crack the line at the WH and bleed the air out. Now if it's not even trying to light, the first thing I'd do is clean all the connections and try again.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:24 PM   #4
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Ok all, here is what I have... It is an Atwood model GC6AA-9E

There is a single switch on the wall with a red light next to the switch that says "RESET"

It does have a rocker on/off switch on the back of the unit. I bled the gas line and still nothing.

Here is the next odd/funny part. While I was reading the part numbers I felt heat coming out of the tube. I'm assuming there is a heating element that was generating the heat? But I did not have the switch on? I guess it runs off 12 volts because I did not have it plugged in to 120V?
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:48 PM   #5
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Below, are some excerpts from the manual... Your unit runs on either propane, or 110VAC.. The 12VDC is only for the control circuitry.


PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Spiders, mud wasps, and other insects can build nests in burner tube.
This causes poor combustion, delayed ignition or ignition outside
combustion tube. Listen for a change in burner sounds or in flame
appearance from a hard blue flame to a soft lazy flame or one that is
very yellow. These are indications of an obstruction in burner tube
(FIG 9-C). Inspect and clean on a regular basis.
a. Remove air shutter screw (FIG 9-A) and slide air shutter (FIG 9-B)
down burner tube.
b. Run a flexible wire brush down burner tube (FIG 9-C) until it is visible
at end of burner tube.
c. Vacuum burner where it enters combustion tube.
d. Return air shutter to original position and replace screw.
e. The orifice, burner tube and shutter must be aligned so that the shutter is not
binding on the air tube.




ELECTRONIC IGNITION MAINTENANCE
The water heater comes factory-equipped with a fused circuit board,
which will protect the circuit board from wiring shorts. If the fuse
should activate, the water heater will not operate. Before replacing
the fuse, check for a short external to the board. Once the short is
corrected, replace the 2 amp fuse with a mini ATO style fuse. Do not
install a fuse larger than 3 amps.
If the fuse is good and the unit is inoperative, check for excessively
high voltage to the unit (more than 14 volts).
If the previous two steps did not solve the problem, check the thermal
cut-off. The thermal cutoff is a device installed in the power
supply line. This device will shut off electrical power and stop
heater operation when activated. For example, if an obstruction
within the flue tube should occur, such as described above in the
Preventative maintenance section, the burner flame/heat may contact
the cutoff, resulting in a melting of the fuse element incorporated
in the thermal cutoff. In order to restore power and proper operation
of the water heater, the obstruction must be removed and the
thermal cutoff must be replaced.

HOW TO CLEAN ELECTRONIC IGNITION MODEL
1. Check main burner orifice.
2. Clean and adjust main burner.
3. Main burner and valve manifold must align with each other
4. Check electrode for cracked porcelain.
5. Check electrode for proper gap - 1/8 between electrode and
ground.
6. If module board functions intermittently, remove board and clean
terminal block with pencil eraser.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:51 PM   #6
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Another question... Do you always have to use propane for hot water?
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:20 PM   #7
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You can some what hone in on the area once you know what to listen for. The HW heater makes a bunch of clunks and clicks when trying to light.

1. The gas valve when it opens goes "clunk"

2. Then the electronic ignition goes click click click.

If you are outside next to the unit or even inside listening close to the unit and you hear no "clunk" of the gas valve opening when you turn on the switch to run on LP gas that is problem 1.

No clunk of the gas valve generally means
1. The control board is not getting 12 volt power from the wall switch
2. The T stat or the ECO saftey has corrosion on them and you need to pull the wire spades off, clean and put back on.
3. The main connections to the PC board are glazed over. Pull the connectors off clean and plug back in.

If you made it this far and still no clunk then you need to get a volt meter and do some further digging.

If you have the clunk but then no click click click that means the gas valve is opening, the safeties are met and the ignition should start to fire off. But may or may not pending an ignition problem.

Before I type a bunch more, do you hear any clunk or clicks at all? That helps us and you at least hone in on which of the 2 areas is not working. And then go digging deeper from there.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMD_Driver View Post
Another question... Do you always have to use propane for hot water?
No, we will only be using the trailer at places with hook ups...
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:03 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Before I type a bunch more, do you hear any clunk or clicks at all? That helps us and you at least hone in on which of the 2 areas is not working. And then go digging deeper from there.

Hope this helps

John
Thanks, that does help. When I turn the switch on, the red light next to the switch comes on and I hear a clunk but no clicks and then after about 5 seconds the light goes out... Will check in to it further later this week and let you guys know... Thanks for the help!
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:10 PM   #10
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I'm still perplexed as to how there was heat coming off the unit when I had the gas bottle off (there was no flame), the switch on the wall off and I had the 120V power unplugged???? The tube where the ignitor goes in was hot to the touch and then I could feel heat radiating from the top of the unit where the baffle covers the opening...
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakediddy View Post
Thanks, that does help. When I turn the switch on, the red light next to the switch comes on and I hear a clunk but no clicks and then after about 5 seconds the light goes out... Will check in to it further later this week and let you guys know... Thanks for the help!
Quote:
I'm still perplexed as to how there was heat coming off the unit when I had the gas bottle off (there was no flame), the switch on the wall off and I had the 120V power unplugged???? The tube where the ignitor goes in was hot to the touch and then I could feel heat radiating from the top of the unit where the baffle covers the opening...
OK now we and you know more.

You know the gas valve clunks. That is a good sign. It is at least half working.

What you now said points to an ignition problem or a lack of gas. If there is blockage in the gas line that will cause the unit to not fire off and go out on saftey for no flame. BUT you should of heard click click click.

What may have happened is it fired 1 or 2 poofs of flame and went out. That would add heat to radiate off.

At this stage cleaning the igniter is not a bad idea to rule out. Be careful to no crack the insulator or the spark will ground itself out. Or that may be part of the problem.

Ideally you have the cover down and looking at it while someone inside flips the switch. Then you can see if you even get one poof. When the unit is working right you will hear it snap and click click click. It tries to for several times then pauses, then tries then pauses. It does this 3 times and then goes out on saftey until you power the unit down and back on.

But you said the lights go on then off. Can you take a picture of the on/off buttons and the red light? You may have an older unit and the inside controls may be set up different. On the newer ones when the unit goes out on saftey from a flame failure the DSI light come on and stays on until you cycle the power.

Does yours have a control like this? It is the one in the middle with the 2 red rocker switches and the tank levels.


Here is another helper aid to add to Gary's



Hope this helps and please report back the findings.

John
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Old 03-13-2012, 07:41 AM   #12
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This is my switch. When I flip it up the red light comes on for about 5 seconds, I hear a clunk and then the light goes off. Hope this helps...



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Old 03-13-2012, 07:07 PM   #13
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All, it seems I am good to go... Have no idea what I did or didn't do but it is lighting and generating hot water. Now if you can educate me on the electric / gas portion of it?

Does it always make hot water even if the switch is off with electric?

When I turn the swtich on it automatically lights the flame.

I guess what I am asking is this. How (or can I) make hot water using just the element and no gas? Is this something to do with that on/off rocker switch on the back of the tank?

Thanks!
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Old 03-13-2012, 08:42 PM   #14
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Hi Bake,

See this manual. On page 18 it describes how your vintage system works. Yours is a version 9 heater.

http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Atwoo...er-Service.pdf

There is a single switch on the wall with a red light next to the switch that says "RESET"

It does have a rocker on/off switch on the back of the unit.

Quote:
Bake said:

Ok all, here is what I have... It is an Atwood model GC6AA-9E

There is a single switch on the wall with a red light next to the switch that says "RESET"

It does have a rocker on/off switch on the back of the unit.
Yours works a little different then the newer PC boards. On yours it appears when you flip the rocker switch the unit turns on in gas mode.

It try's to fire the gas and has 6 to 8 seconds to light and if the flame sense does not ignite then the unit locks out on saftey and the red light stays on indicating a flame failure. If it lights, then red light goes out. To reset, turn the switch off and then back on and it will try again.

On the newer units the system try's the firing sequence 3 times then goes off on saftey and sends the red light. Your vintage seems to only do this once.

So if you have air in the gas lines, very common when using the camper from sitting a while, it may take 4 time outs and resets to purge the air out then it will light off.

And your vintage has a separate 120 VAC electric element along with a separate T start and ECO switch. Yes, that little rocker switch on the back of the hot water heater is an on/off for the electric part. I do not know when Sunline started putting a dedicated circuit breaker just for the HW heater . I "thought" it started in 2004 but may be wrong on this. Yours may or may not have a dedicated circuit breaker just for the electric portion of the HW heater.

I have heard of some folks with the older units complaining about getting to that little rocker switch on the back of the heater to run the electric. Some have created their own up grade and put in a desperate on/off switch more out in the open so they did not have to crawl in there to turn it on. Trace the wire from the back of the heater, there may be a remote switch.

I think EMD_Driver did this on their 2003 T320SR. He had an illuminated switch so he knew when the electric part was turned on. You do not want to make this switch too easy to turn on as if it gets bumped on with no water in the heater the element will burn out in very short order.

On the newer units the electric part is combined with the gas system. There is no longer a switch in the back, there is a relay. When electric is selected it uses the same T stat and ECO safeties as the gas and then the relay turns the 120 VAC on to the element. In 2004 Sunline added a circuit breaker just for the 120 VAC element. So when we are done camping that breaker goes off. And will only be turned back on when water is added to the heater on the next trip. Then if someone accidentally turns on the electric switch (that is right put in the open) I do not toast the element. I must admit it works too. As we have forgot to turn on the breaker and been waiting for ever and no hot water... DUH... After you do this a time or 2 you remember quicker....

Hope this helps

John
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:06 PM   #15
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The easiest way to get your "water heater" to ignite using the propane mode, is to first "purge" the gas line by turning on all the burners on your cooktop for a couple of minutes, this removes the air from the lines, then when you push the wall mounted switch it should cause the propane burner to ignite, thus heating your water in the "water heater".

Now, according to the 2000 Sunline brochure, you should in fact have a propane/electric water heater. You now know how to ignite the propane mode and that it in fact does work.

Now for the electric portion. First, located where/how to access the back of your water heater (this access WILL be inside of your coach). Once you have gotten to the back of your WH, you will see a black plastic box, remove/cut the piece of tape holding it closed.

Open the black box and you'll see lots of wires that you will need to carefully move to have access to the "heating element",



Unscrew the heating element (have rags on your floor as there WILL BE water remaining in the tank even thought you drained it),

I had put a "shallow" catch tray underneath my WH, that is what the clear-ish thing is that you see in the photo.

Take the burnt out element to a place like Lowes to get a replacement. Here is what a burnt out element looks like:



Once you are sure that the element is good, or you have replaced it, close everything up, fill WH with water and decide which way you want to heat your water, propane or electric. Propane appears to be operated by the switch inside of your rig, and the electric portion is probably activated/de-activated by a toggle switch located on the back of the WH itself. Some folks leave the toggle switch in the "ON" position on the back of the W/H, and just use the WH Breaker in the breaker box inside of the rig.

I believe it was in models newer than yours that put a switch inside the rig that gave you the choice turn either the propane OR electric on from inside the coach.

If you are in a hurry to have hot water, you can use both the propane & electric at the same time. But, seldom are you ever in that much of a hurry for hot water, so generally if in a campground with electric hookups, most use the electric mode (saves some of your propane). If you are somewhere and do not have electric, use the propane mode. Hope I explained this well enuff for you, otherwise, just ask and it will get explained better.

Kitty

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Old 03-13-2012, 09:18 PM   #16
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Gary, John and Kitty I can't thank you enough... I am good to go now, you have given me all the info I need! Thanks a million!
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
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...... I do not know when Sunline started putting a dedicated circuit breaker just for the HW heater . I "thought" it started in 2004 but may be wrong on this. ......
FWIW, my 2002 T2363 has a dedicated breaker for the water heater.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:39 PM   #18
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Gary, John and Kitty I can't thank you enough... I am good to go now, you have given me all the info I need! Thanks a million!

Your welcome. That is what we are all about. The camping spirt is alive and well here on SOC.
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:41 PM   #19
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FWIW, my 2002 T2363 has a dedicated breaker for the water heater.
Gene, thanks. I'll add this to the memory cells. I just hope it stays in there....

Does yours have any remote switch or do you have to crawl to the back of the HW heater? Or knowing your back ground did you already upgrade an easier to get to switch?
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Old 03-14-2012, 06:53 AM   #20
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I also have a dedicated breaker for this 2000 T-2753.

Thanks!
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