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Old 07-06-2009, 11:27 AM   #1
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Help with spring tuneup??

We haven't gone out yet with our "new" TT because our daughter got married this weekend--now we're ready! We started to do the list of 'spring tuneup" and got discouraged because of all the warnings on appliances and finding valves for flushing the water system and reading about the water heater--I know it can't be that complicated, but the directions and diagrams seem to be.... We had a pop-up before and did just fine ourselves. We finally made an appointment a week from Thursday to have a dealer show us and check everything (we need the fridge recall done anyway). We were hoping to get out earlier--can anybody give us a simple scenario, or should we have a dealer go over it with us the first time anyway??
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Old 07-06-2009, 12:30 PM   #2
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We moved from a popup to our Sunline last September.

The only difference between our PU and the Sunline is the holding tanks and bathroom, but we still had our all coach systems checked by our RV tech before we took it out. We had the LP system & the brakes/bearings on our PU professionally checked every year and we plan to continue that with the Sunline.

I think it's an EXCELLENT idea to get the dealer to give you a run-through on how to prepare your coach for the camping season. Heck, they will probably need to pressure test the LP system after the fridge recall anyway. Might as well take advantage of the professional guidance. I know I would.
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Old 07-06-2009, 04:14 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkasten39828
We had the LP system & the brakes/bearings on our PU professionally checked every year and we plan to continue that with the Sunline.

I think it's an EXCELLENT idea to get the dealer to give you a run-through on how to prepare your coach for the camping season. Heck, they will probably need to pressure test the LP system after the fridge recall anyway. Might as well take advantage of the professional guidance. I know I would.
Hi Dave,

Just so you know in case you are wondering, the Dometic recal does not require a LP pressue drop test to check for LP system leaks. That test is a good thing to do for sure but is not part of the recal. The recall actually has nothing to do with the LP side of the fridge other then how to shut it down. It is all on the electric control side of things on how to shut the fridge down in the event the system gets too hot from an overheated flue stack in attempts to not set the TT on fire.

Nancy

We too came from a PU, and they had there own set of unique things about them. Having a good dealer help is not a bad thing and for many is the only way repairs are made.

A complete LP gas system leak check, (checking the piping and valves for leaks known as a pressure drop test) and having the furnace, HW heater and stove operation checked over is needed on any camper. Especially used.

Once checked and working right, they are not hard to use and give reliable service but there is a small learning curve.

Which area(’s) do you need help with? We can help but it would be better if we know which items you need help with. Give us a “list” of the topics. And once we talk about the list, you can be better armed to ask questions at the dealer.

Hope this helps

Thanks

John
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:42 AM   #4
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Went to the dealer and had them flush the winterizer while we watched --they were very helpful and we asked all our questions. We feel much more comfortable that we're not going to blow ourselves up or be covered in "poo." When I went back and read the manual it made much more sense--it was all there--including towing in 3rd gear which I had missed the first time! They recommended a Rhino sewer hose as being much more reliable than the generic one we have--any thoughts?? Should we get the longest length plus extender?? We'll do a few full hookups just because, but mostly we'll be dry camping in the Adirondacks, etc.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:41 AM   #5
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We have this kit: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...r-kit-20/27864

It includes 2 ten foot sections of hose and the bayonet coupler which has three different size threads to give you a solid hookup to most campground sewer pipes. It also has a slip connection if there are no threads. The two ten foot sections are handy because if you only need 5' to 10' you don't have 20' stretched out!

We hook into the trailer with this clear elbow that allows you to see the discharge when flushing the black tank:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-adapter/16835

These weights are not mandatory but work very well when there isn't a threaded connection.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-weights/29031

Another nice to have is some kind of support to eliminate low spots in your hookup.http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...7-h-x-20/10952

I would consider the clear 45 deg. elbow and the hose kit with bayonet adaptor to be minimum requirement.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-10-2009, 02:03 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nancy G.
Went to the dealer and had them flush the winterizer while we watched --they were very helpful and we asked all our questions. We feel much more comfortable that we're not going to blow ourselves up or be covered in "poo." When I went back and read the manual it made much more sense--it was all there--including towing in 3rd gear which I had missed the first time!
You will find that winterizing and de-winterizing are really fairly quick and easy chores once you've done a time or two. There are several threads here on SOC about that, so try the search function and see what comes up.

The 3rd gear towing really only applies if the transmission "hunts" a lot unless there are more specific directions in your truck's user manual. I tow on flats in OD with no problems, and did so with my last truck, too. Different story inside the Blue Line, of course.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nancy G.
They recommended a Rhino sewer hose as being much more reliable than the generic one we have--any thoughts?? Should we get the longest length plus extender?? We'll do a few full hookups just because, but mostly we'll be dry camping in the Adirondacks, etc.
We also dry camp, mostly in ADK land. We just have one 10' Rhino hose, and it has served us well at many of the dump stations up there. I suggest you buy one 10' hose for now, and then see how it works out.
But the kit that Mack recommends is a good one, and may be more economical than buying separately. I use a couple of pieces of 4" thin wall PVC pipe cut in half lengthwise to support my hose and to protect it from rough surfaces.

Helpful hint: Unless you religiously paint the inside of the 4" square rear bumper on your trailer, it is not a good place to store that hose. The inside rusts quickly and if you slide the hose in and out of the bumper, it is like running that thin plastic hose over rough sandpaper. There are several good suggestions here. The purchased PVC holders are good, and there are several DIY's that work extremely well. I personally use a 8" tall plastic tote box for all my black water stuff. Keeps it all together, and I can clean everything at one time with sanitizer.

Also, I use the lid of the tote on the concrete pad at the dump station. I prefer that my hose not rub aganst concrete which will quickly cause leaks.

Most campgrounds that offer full hookups have the connection fairly close to the pad where you site the trailer. I've never needed a longer hose except for the year we were seasonal at a local campground. Then we used 4" thin wall PVC drain pipe to reach the connection.
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Old 07-10-2009, 08:25 PM   #7
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I'm going to go out on a limb and say it's hard to beat the RhinoFlex. The 15 ft. compresses down to about 5 ft. for storage. You pull out as much length as you need. RhinoFlex can be bent to whatever shape or curve you need. I watch other people struggle with 20 ft. of super flexible hose and can't believe they haven't discovered RhinoFlex yet.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...ewer-kit/44151

Also seems to be in Walmart just about any time I look and probably a slightly better price. Be sure to to get the updated one with clear elbow--our older version has a solid color elbow.

I have never used more than the 15 ft. that is in the kit, but have occasionally moved my camper before dumping to "make it fit". A 10 ft. extension should suit any situation you'll come across.

Like Steve, I also have two lengths of halves of PVC pipe and they do come in handy from time to time--again sure beats messing with wood blocks like some folks do.

This RV dealer was listed by GoodSam as one of the top 50. Their name jumped off the page as I scanned the list as we drive right by there in IL to visit family. The video isn't the greatest quality, but it might be a good encouragement and confidence builder for new rv'ers starting out.

http://www.pontiacrv.com/rv-service.aspx

Henry
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