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Old 07-15-2017, 04:18 PM   #1
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HELP!!!! I have no clue what I am doing

I purchased. 1982 sunline 16 1/2 travel trailer in april i am finally going to get to use i have purchaed all the stuff i thought i would need battery, propane and what nots. So today I attempted to figure out how everything works but i cant get anything but the lights working so far. I need how to make my stove work as well as get my water going. Any one who has the free time to explain it would be greatly appreciated someone was coming over to help and never showed.

Thank you
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Old 07-15-2017, 06:42 PM   #2
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Hi,

We can try and help but we need a little more to go on.

You said,
Quote:
So today I attempted to figure out how everything works but i cant get anything but the lights working so far.
Try and explain. You have the lights working, this is good. It's a start. What did you try next and what did not work? We are assuming this is an electrical kind of question.

You said,
Quote:
I need how to make my stove work
The stove runs on propane. Can you get the top burners to light up? You will need to turn on the propane at the tanks "slowly". Meaning as you open the valve, do it slow so there is not a large rush of incoming gas. We are assuming somewhere along the way your propane tank connection has been upgraded to the newer black or green plastic nut type of connection at the tank. Looks like a standard BBQ grill hose connection. That plastic nut is a safety valve that will shut down the gas to a slow trickle if you open the valve too fast and a large slug of propane rushes through.

If your camper has 2 propane tanks and they are hose hooked together, then there might be an auto change over regulator that needs a tank selection switch turned to the tank you want to use. If you have to move the hose connection to the second tank, then you do not have the auto change over regulator and you change tanks manually.

Once the gas is turned on at the tank, then you need to purge the air out of the gas lines up to the stove top. You do this by first, open up a window on the camper to let fresh air in near the stove.

Then using a grill lighter, hold it next to a stove burner and open the burner valve. It will purge air until it lights. This might take a minute or 2. You will hear a hissing sound, but it will not light until the gas comes. The oven if you have one, is a little more to it to light. Let us know if the burner at least work.

Quote:
as well as get my water going.
Tell us what you are wanting to do. The camper can be charged with "city water" meaning you screw in a hose to a fitting on the side of the camper and it pressurizes the camper with water. OR the camper can be self contained and use the fresh water tank and the water pump to pressurize. Here you fill the fresh tank with clean potable water and then turn on the water pump to create the pressure in the water lines.

Before using the camper with fresh water for showers, dish washing, teeth brushing etc. the water system needs to be chlorine shocked and sanitized. That is a separate process to be used before you camp, but not before you know the water system actually works and has no leaks.

Try and give us some more to go on. There is a lot to learn the first time but we need a little more to help you better. Tell us what you tried to do and then what does seem to work. Try and mention as much as possible. We understand you do not know yet, we can help, but we can only go on what you tell us.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:13 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Hi,



We can try and help but we need a little more to go on.



You said,





Try and explain. You have the lights working, this is good. It's a start. What did you try next and what did not work? We are assuming this is an electrical kind of question.



You said,

The stove runs on propane. Can you get the top burners to light up? You will need to turn on the propane at the tanks "slowly". Meaning as you open the valve, do it slow so there is not a large rush of incoming gas. We are assuming somewhere along the way your propane tank connection has been upgraded to the newer black or green plastic nut type of connection at the tank. Looks like a standard BBQ grill hose connection. That plastic nut is a safety valve that will shut down the gas to a slow trickle if you open the valve too fast and a large slug of propane rushes through.



If your camper has 2 propane tanks and they are hose hooked together, then there might be an auto change over regulator that needs a tank selection switch turned to the tank you want to use. If you have to move the hose connection to the second tank, then you do not have the auto change over regulator and you change tanks manually.



Once the gas is turned on at the tank, then you need to purge the air out of the gas lines up to the stove top. You do this by first, open up a window on the camper to let fresh air in near the stove.



Then using a grill lighter, hold it next to a stove burner and open the burner valve. It will purge air until it lights. This might take a minute or 2. You will hear a hissing sound, but it will not light until the gas comes. The oven if you have one, is a little more to it to light. Let us know if the burner at least work.



Tell us what you are wanting to do. The camper can be charged with "city water" meaning you screw in a hose to a fitting on the side of the camper and it pressurizes the camper with water. OR the camper can be self contained and use the fresh water tank and the water pump to pressurize. Here you fill the fresh tank with clean potable water and then turn on the water pump to create the pressure in the water lines.



Before using the camper with fresh water for showers, dish washing, teeth brushing etc. the water system needs to be chlorine shocked and sanitized. That is a separate process to be used before you camp, but not before you know the water system actually works and has no leaks.



Try and give us some more to go on. There is a lot to learn the first time but we need a little more to help you better. Tell us what you tried to do and then what does seem to work. Try and mention as much as possible. We understand you do not know yet, we can help, but we can only go on what you tell us.



Hope this helps



John


How do you chlorine shock a water system?


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Old 07-16-2017, 09:36 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stella22 View Post
How do you chlorine shock a water system?
Hi Stella22,

The basics are you drain the camper, piping, hot water heater and the fresh water tank of any left over antifreeze from the winter or standing water if from the summer.

Then you create a mix of water and unscented house hold bleach to a certain percentage of bleach to water and fill the fresh tank with this mixture. I mix the bleach in a 2 quart left over Juicy Juice bottle with water. Fill the fresh tank about 1/4 filled, then with a funnel pour in the bleach mix, then keep filling the tank full with water.

Once the tank is filled, you turn on the water pump and pump it through the camper. Open every faucet and purdge the air out and let it run to drain until you smell the strong scent of chlorine then shut off that faucet and go to the next. Do both hot and cold water faucets, the toilet and the outside shower if yours has one. When down purging top off the fresh tank as about 8 to 10 gallons of water just left the fresh tank from filling up the HW tank and the piping.

Let is sit for several hours (3hrs is enough) killing any bacteria. Then drain all the high chlorine water out and flush the system with clean fresh water. Some of us then after the fresh water flush, also use a baking soda mix in the fresh tank and pump it through the camper and let it sit for several days to get rid of the chlorine taste and scent stuck in the plastic piping. I have found 3 to 4 days soaking gets ride of almost all the taste. I do this and it works well. Then flush all the baking soda water out with clean water. If we do not do this, it many take many camp outs before the high chlorine taste goes away.

Do not put the real high chlorine water down a septic system. It will not be good for the septic. It can burn a nice tender lawn too. I let it drain out on a gravel driveway and evaporate off.

In the FILES section of our forum is a Spring start up guide that Sunline put in their camper manuals. It has this sanitizing procedure listed as item no 6 on the 2nd page. It calls out the bleach ratio and the baking soda ratio. The FILES tab is on the top of the forum, click it and then scroll down to "Sunline Guides & Tips". Go in there and click on "Sunline Spring Startup Guide" and down load a copy.

Let us know if you need more on this. Glad to help

John
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:27 AM   #5
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Repairing my 1989 T-1700 Saturn

To those that have helped me in the past, Thank you. I have finally been able to travel, retired, wife passed away last Sept. and children while living home don't need the old man, so I'm trying to get my Sunny up and running. I now know why I got it so cheap, the floor is rotten, the door won't close well anymore otherwise, I love her to death and want to rebuild to my best ability.Step 1: replacing all the rotted floor beams from the door way half way in. That's done, using safe pressure treated wood,2x4 cut to size and sistered to floor joists that survived and the outside, floor beam, that the awning will attach to was a 2x6 again cut to fit and bolted in place using the holes in metal frame where previous wood was attached. The door is all apart due to all corner welds being broken. I believe as the wall base rotted away, the walls sunk and in time broke the corner welds. I will have to get the frame of the door welded and rebuild the door frame, wood part and reassemble all. The bathroom fan is dead and I have a new one but don't seem to have any power to the fan, have to remember where the fuse panel is. I think I'm doing everything correctly bot in the past, John and a few others have helped me with questions and I hope I can ask ,again, for their help. Thank you for any help that is offered and I await any way I can return the favor. Emmett M. Marrone, Verplanck, NY 10596
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:43 AM   #6
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Your door frame work is not welded however there is no doubt all of the wood inside is rotted there was little if any effort to waterproof the wood haven't seen any older ones that did not have at least the bottom part rotted out. I have done at least 5 of them and always rip pressure treated to size and use cabinet screws instead staples to hold the frame together. They aren't much to begin with many don't even use plywood just a styrofoam core.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:00 AM   #7
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Wink Repairing my 1989 T-1700 Saturn

First things first! Thank you Mainah and John for being so very helpful in the past I've cut out the bad part of the floor, sistered up the center most floor joist and used a PT 2x6 for the outside floor joist. I then jacked up the hinge side of the door and rested it on the new floor joist, a small part of the bottom of the wall/door jamb was rotted but the rest seems intact. I will secure it to the floor with a steel right angle. Hopefully that's what to do and then the last piece of 3/4 plywood will have a cut out to allow for that wall member and again I hope this is correct. I will finish the door rebuild and PLEASE GOD let it fit cause it's 90 degrees here today and this my 5th day working in this heat and for brief periods, I fantasize towing my "Sunny" to the junk yard. My next job is to replace the gates on the waste tank as they got broken while I was backing the camper into the driveway where a 10" wall reached out and broke them! Yet another problem I think I can fix, wondering what glue to use, if any? I know that this a lot of questions but I have no other sources except here. Thank you from my heart for the help. Marcom13--Emmett
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:13 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by marcom13 View Post
My next job is to replace the gates on the waste tank as they got broken while I was backing the camper into the driveway where a 10" wall reached out and broke them! Yet another problem I think I can fix, wondering what glue to use, if any? I know that this a lot of questions but I have no other sources except here. Thank you from my heart for the help. Marcom13--Emmett
Hi Emmett,

The heat wave is hear in mid Ohio today too. It is hot and humid out...

On the tank piping if that is broke, that black pipe is ABS. It can be fixed using solvent weld. And they still sell pipe and fittings (at least for now) at the lumber yards. I heard a rumor they make slow down the making of it. Something about the cost to produce being an issue.

See these posts
How-To: ABS Tank Crack Repair

ABS vs PVC - Repairing / Rerouting black water Drain pipe

Wevac Black Water Tank - Repair Material

If the valves themselves are cracked in the sliding gate area, they do sell replacements. See here on the Valterra site http://www.valterra.com/product-cate...er-sanitation/ Scroll down for the dump valves.

They sell them on line a lot. Etrailer, Amazon, RV upgrades, Camping World, Tweetys etc. A local RV dealer has them too I'm sure.

As to all the questions, this is the place to ask Sunline questions! Ask away. There is no limit, just keep asking until your projects are done.

It sounds like you have the rot repair under control. If you need more on this, ask away. We are you Cyber Campfire sounding board for ideas on "How to"

Hope this helps

John
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