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Old 05-16-2017, 06:26 PM   #1
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Gutter Rail Vinyl Screw Cover?

Getting ready to replace my vinyl screw covers and can't figure out how the ends attach on the top side rails. I see they wrap around the back of the rail (it's the same on both ends). Is that tucked in end held with just adhesive? I thought you wanted a screw in there but don't see it possible on both ends.


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Old 05-16-2017, 07:40 PM   #2
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do you have a picture of the other end?
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Old 05-16-2017, 08:50 PM   #3
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It's exactly the same.
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Old 05-17-2017, 06:39 PM   #4
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They tuck the ends in about 1". This helps keep the vinyl strip from coming out.

This is all done at the factory when everything was nice and new and the butyl tape behind was nice and soft.

If you want to get the strip out, not to be used again, just cut it with a utility knife and leave a small amount you can get a set of pliers on and yank. If it does not want to come, a little heat from a heat gun on the aluminum gutter rail and or loosening the last screw which sandwiches the gutter to the camper helps it come out.

Odds are high the back of that strip will look like this.






If you see rusted screw heads, now is the time to change them before they turn into water wicks.

These small gutters and the screws that are under water when the gutter is full is a weak point in a camper for water to get in. And many brands are made the same way. It is an industry wide issue.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-17-2017, 08:01 PM   #5
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Thanks

Am planning on replacing all the screws with stainless and packing all the screw holes with butyl.

I'm surprised nobody's come up with a better roof sealing system as it's been done this way since the dawn of campers. I've yet to see a 15 or 20 year old used campers without some water damage (mine included).

Have you seen the construction methods on a Venture Sonic? Roof runs from bottom front to bottom rear. Would love your opinion on that.

I'd post a link but not sure how to do it
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Old 05-17-2017, 10:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnybgood View Post

I'd post a link but not sure how to do it
Links are easy in the forum software. There are 2 ways.
  • Go into the Advanced reply to thread mode.
  • Look for the icon that looks like a globe and paper clip. Click it where you want the link to show up in your post.
  • Copy the URL from where you want to link into the box in the Icon.
  • Hit OK and the link will show up.

OR just copy the link and paste it into the post. When you preview the post or post it, the link will show up as a hot link.

I am searching on the camper you talked about to see it. I'm curious to see it.

Thanks

John
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Old 05-17-2017, 10:50 PM   #7
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John,

Do you mean these from Venture RV?

The Sonic line appears to the their lighter weight camper

https://www.venture-rv.com/sonic-tra...struction.html

The larger campers are made the more traditional way
https://www.venture-rv.com/sporttrek...struction.html

I would really like to see one up close before I comment too much. I must admit the elimination of a front and rear roof seam of the Sonic is different. There are still edge seams though and the trailer is not always level when camping so water I am assuming some water goes over the sides? I did not see a gutter called out on the Sonic but is on the sportrek. Curious on how they create that joint.

Thanks for the lead. I'm always interested in learning new stuff too.

John
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:31 PM   #8
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Gutter Rail Vinyl Screw Cover?

Yes, that's the one. Their's a Sonic dealer not real far from me. I'm going to check them out next time I'm in that area out of curiosity.

I'm guessing their no better than any other if it's not maintained. Just 2 less possible intrusion areas.
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Old 05-18-2017, 10:24 PM   #9
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Yes John, that front and rear seam is 2 of the most likely water infection areas if the owner does not know about having to do routine roof maintenance on the caulking and cleaning.

Since you are upgrading the gutter rail screws, good for you, this post may help on how to overcome some of the roof leak potentials.

Eternabond Roof Seal Tape on a Sunline (Lots of pics)

Doing all the roof seams with Eternabond is a little costly and it takes time. It can be done in stages as funds and time allows. However it does help stop the leaks caused by roof sealant failures. And it address the gutter rail screw issue. If you plan on keeping your current camper a good while this may be something to think through. If you decide to go this route, I have some updated info since that post back in 2010 to add new leanings.

When you get to taking the vinyl strip off, curious what it looks like. I suspect I know, but we all learn from each other.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 11-29-2017, 04:43 PM   #10
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Gutter Rail Vinyl Screw Cover?

Iíve finally started this project, and yes John, you were correct. It looks about the same as your pics. All the screws are rusty.

Iíve started on the curb side and canít get a good angle on the majority of screws to replace with stainless due to the awning. Weíre planning on a new awning, so for now I just removed the screw cover, cleaned, and covered the old screws with butyl.

Interesting enough, most of the screws had small remnants of putty on them. Not sure if Sunline did that at the factory or not. Based on the lack of roof maintenance Iíd be highly surprised if a previous owner did that.
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Old 11-29-2017, 07:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnybgood View Post
Iíve started on the curb side and canít get a good angle on the majority of screws to replace with stainless due to the awning. Weíre planning on a new awning, so for now I just removed the screw cover, cleaned, and covered the old screws with butyl.

Interesting enough, most of the screws had small remnants of putty on them.
Hi John,

To get the screws out behind the awning rail, you just let the awning out and then down and the entire gutter rail will be exposed. Like this:

1. Prepare the awing to pull out like normal with the arm latches and clamp nuts on the arms.
2. Unclick the roller tube latch so it will allow to be pulled out.
3. Pull the awning out about 6 inches or so. This will create slack for the next step.
4. On the bottom of the awning arms, unlatch the arms from the camper and let the awning arm release it's foot to drop down to the ground.

The awing tube is now about 5 inches or so below the awning rail. You may have to tie the awning arms that are down on the ground to the awning arm left on the camper so it does not pivot out away from the camper

It looks like this when you are done. I did this when I changed out all my screws for stainless during my Eternabond upgrade


H'mm , putty tape on the ends of the screws, I have not heard or seen that direct from the factory but I'm sure it helped somewhat.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 11-30-2017, 05:30 AM   #12
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Thank you John. I never thought of that.
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