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Old 06-30-2010, 08:55 AM   #1
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ebunford is an unknown quantity at this point
Furnace parts

I have an older 88 model Sunline and I need to order a new blower motor for the furnace. The RV places say I need make and model..that info is all worn off the furnace..Can anyone tell me the make or model of this furnace. (Pictire enclosed)[]
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:29 AM   #2
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Hi your pic is not coming thru, but I helped you here post it.

Here is Ebunford's furnace



Something is wrong. This is a .html image not a .jeg and mine will not post using the orignal path.
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:43 AM   #3
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I have a working furnace from a 1985 sunline. You are welcome to it if it meets your needs. We are in Hampton, NH

What model Sunline do you have?

John, are the blowers virtually the same?
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:59 PM   #4
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Norm, what is the model of yours? I can look it up and maybe get a tech document on it and show Ebunford what yours look like to see if that model matches his
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Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
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Old 07-01-2010, 05:03 AM   #5
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I'll get the part number this morning. I do know it's 16,000 BTU and unducted with manual pilot. I'll go down cellar and get the part number after breakfast.
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Old 07-01-2010, 07:22 AM   #6
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John,

The model number is in microprint and is quite faded after 28 years. Here's what I could read: Model Number HF 8012PF, 12000 BTU. Not to sure about the 'F'.
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:26 AM   #7
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It sure would be a help, John.. Do you know what kind of Furnace it is?
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:49 AM   #8
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I looked up this furnace, and I'm sure that's what I have. Between John B. and Honda 03842, I think you have solved my problem.
Background: I just bought the trailer on a private sale and the furnace wasn't working. The Seller agreed to take it to a local RV dealer to have it checked over for me. The RV dealer said they fixed the furnace. I asked what was wrong, they said they "modified the sail switch". Not knowing much about it I paid them their fee ($100 total check over & $50 for fixing furnace.) Last week I told a friend about it who was a furnace repair person, and he was upset because that is dangerous to modify. He looked at the furnace and said the blower motor is going and by modifying the switch, exhaust may build up in the camper. This is my first camper learning from the school of hard knocks. Should I post thr RV dealer's name?
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:21 PM   #9
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Ebunford,

I'm happy to give you the furnace I have. It worked perfectly fine when I took it out this spring.

Your last email suggests that your present furnace is working. You may want to continue to use it. When I bought my trailer "the sail switch wasn't working". I jumped it and the furncae lit right up.

The sail switch makes sure the blower comes on before lighting the flame. It's a small mechanical switch with a "sail" on it. The force of the blower's air closes the switch. It's a safety feature to make sure the furnace has airflow.

My problem with the sail switch was simple, and maybe your RV repair company's fix, was to the same as mine. All I did was loosen all the wire connections and retighten the terminals. In these old RV's (and new ones) terminals corrode and occasionally need to be loosened and retightened. I must tell you I've fixed many an RV problem by doing this.

If your furnace is lighting that probably indicates the sail switch is working. Remember all the sail switch does is to detect if the blowers on before lighting the furnace just to make sure that the furnace doesn't overheat.

It seems to me that the airflow from the blower is for moving hot air into the trailer. (someone correct me if I'm wrong) It does not blow air thru the combustion chamber. As well combustion chamber has no access to the inside of the trailer.

Now I'm more than willing to give you our Furnace but I would check to see if your present furnace is working, it may save you a little work. As well you may want to get a CO monitor anyway as a safety feature.

What model Sunline do you have?
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Old 07-01-2010, 09:30 PM   #10
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Norm and Ginny,
I hope you got the private message I sent..I can't see them after I hit send, not sure if I lost them.
I would be pleased to accept your furnace, and thank you for your generosity. You are an outstanding representation of friendship in the Sunline owners club, and have helped solve my furnace problem. I'll be in touch with you in a few weeks, and hope to take a weekend trip to Hampton Beach.
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Old 07-01-2010, 10:38 PM   #11
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Hi Ebundford

OK I did some digging, it this your furnace? A Atwood Hydroflame Everest Star 8012-II 12,000 BTU Furnace/Heater.

If it is here is a new one. http://www.ducktec.com/itm00026.htm

And here is some cut aways.







Is this the correct furnace? If so here is some Atwood literature on it. http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...0SP%201.08.pdf

If it is the one you have then I know a little about them. I am more fluent on the newer ones but this appears to work the same by the wiring diagram.

If the repair shop actually ďmodifiedĒ the sail switch then I too would be concerned like your furnace buddy. I have no idea what he modified if he actually modified it. If he trimmed the sail size or made it trigger with weaker air flow, I see that to have some issues.

Now if it had a bad wiring connection then that is something different depending what it is. What does not make sense is why a RV repair shop would not put a new switch in verses trying to salvage the old one if it was the switch itself. There is a large amount of digging to get to that ~ $24 to $30 switch so why not sell the customer a new one and be done with it. Since I was not there I cannot second guess them.

Here is my concern on why I stated making the switch trip with weaker air flow is a concern. Again this is my view on the topic. Very open to others.

There are only 2 safeties on these furnaces to protect from overheating. The sail switch and a high limit temp switch.

The sail switch insures there is adequate air flow thru the heating chamber so when the gas burner ignites the unit will draw in cold air from outside and push the heat thru the chamber and exhaust back outside. If the fan wind is not strong enough then part of the combustion chamber will over heat as the flame is blasting right on it. It may or may not be close to the over temp limit switch. That burner is like a propane torch for all practical purposes.

When you are boondocking and your battery gets drained down, the motor slows. When it slows enough the sail switch does not make and it shuts off the heat so this over heating problem will not occur. By modifying the resistance of the switch it may cause the system to over heat under any lower fan speed.

The high temp limit switch which is wired in series with the sail switch will also shut off the gas valve but it protects from a different point of view. Say the motor is turning OK and the sail switch is working right. Outside air is used to feed the gas burner, it heats the metal heat chamber from the inside and exhausts the gases out side. So far so good. Now the same motor has 2 fans. One on each end of teh motor shaft. The inside fan blade moves inside camper air across the outside of the heat chamber and back into the camper. This way no gas fumes get in the camper, it is by convection heat exchange how these things work. Well if the ducting or air flow on the inside of the camper is blocked or not enough air flow it cannot cool off the heat chamber. Then the high limit switch shits down the heat. The high limit switch can trip as well for other over heating things as well.

Both need to work right for all conditions.

If you know for sure the RV shop made the switch trigger with weaker air flow, I myself would change the switch.

To your question about posting the name of the shop, Iím not a shop basher and I have no idea what exactly they did. So I would not publicly post them. If they are a reputable shop and they made an error, they should stand behind it. If a company or shop does me a disservice they lost my business forever.

Hope this helps

John

While this is not your furnace it is mine. Long story on what I am correcting but you can see the burner and the mazed path of the heat chamber that you really need good air flow to get the heat all the way thru that chamber. They do that twisting around to extract at much heat as they can from it before exhausting outside the camper.

The gas burner. This plugs right into the heat chamber.




The heat chamber


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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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Old 07-02-2010, 12:33 PM   #12
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ebunford is an unknown quantity at this point
Furnace parts

Wow! John and Norm...You guys are great. Thanks for all the info. and help.
It's great to know that a new camper can get this much help from the seasoned veterans. I'll print this out to keep with the furnace.
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