|
09-27-2018, 08:01 PM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
|
Front window leak
Good evening. The good news...I am out camping again and in good company - Sisters on the Fly. Yay!
The bad news, I have a leak at the front window. Not sure where but on the street side. I am guessing from the top. I have been out in the rain before once in a really bad storm that poured so bad I was nervous but when I checked back then no leaks.
It happened during the drive to the campground because it was covered prior to leaving. I will have to take a look tomorrow morning. The bad thing is a storm is coming through around 1:00am.
Sad Tommie
__________________
__________________
|
|
|
09-27-2018, 08:10 PM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 854
SUN #1546
|
I had the same problem pretty easy fix. If you have some or can purchase some
temporary caulk and caulk around the window to stop the leak until you can get it repaired
__________________
__________________
Joan & Miss Emme Lu Who
Full Timing in T-1950 2005 Anniversary Model
1997 6.5L Chevy Turbo Diesel Truck
"Pure Michigan"
Facebook: Apackof2 for the Rd
|
|
|
09-27-2018, 08:19 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by apackoftwo
I had the same problem pretty easy fix. If you have some or can purchase some
temporary caulk and caulk around the window to stop the leak until you can get it repaired
|
I have some dicor with me but not really sure how the water is getting in. The window should be nice and sealed. I butyl taped the crap out of it and then went over it with dicor. It's dark now so I won't be able to do anything until morning. I'm just in disbelief right now.
__________________
|
|
|
09-27-2018, 09:19 PM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 854
SUN #1546
|
Good job.
I know the feeling but as the old saying goes, its not if you get a leak, its when
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomascine
I have some dicor with me but not really sure how the water is getting in. The window should be nice and sealed. I butyl taped the crap out of it and then went over it with dicor. It's dark now so I won't be able to do anything until morning. I'm just in disbelief right now.
|
__________________
Joan & Miss Emme Lu Who
Full Timing in T-1950 2005 Anniversary Model
1997 6.5L Chevy Turbo Diesel Truck
"Pure Michigan"
Facebook: Apackof2 for the Rd
|
|
|
09-27-2018, 10:06 PM
|
#5
|
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
|
Jalousie windows do have a lot of moving points and seals for those moving points- are you sure the window isn't leaking in itself, unrelated to the butyl and wall seal? I've heard there are new seal kits available for older Hehr windows, although I've never used one.
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
|
|
|
09-28-2018, 08:45 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 854
SUN #1546
|
It isn’t a jalousie window, its the big front window
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
Jalousie windows do have a lot of moving points and seals for those moving points- are you sure the window isn't leaking in itself, unrelated to the butyl and wall seal? I've heard there are new seal kits available for older Hehr windows, although I've never used one.
|
__________________
Joan & Miss Emme Lu Who
Full Timing in T-1950 2005 Anniversary Model
1997 6.5L Chevy Turbo Diesel Truck
"Pure Michigan"
Facebook: Apackof2 for the Rd
|
|
|
09-28-2018, 09:07 AM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
|
Really the only way to fix it is to take it out reseal it and put it back in. It isn't as hard as it looks.
__________________
|
|
|
09-28-2018, 10:09 AM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 854
SUN #1546
|
Yup but what she did is to stop the leak until she gets it fixed
__________________
Joan & Miss Emme Lu Who
Full Timing in T-1950 2005 Anniversary Model
1997 6.5L Chevy Turbo Diesel Truck
"Pure Michigan"
Facebook: Apackof2 for the Rd
|
|
|
09-28-2018, 11:12 AM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
|
As a stop gap that may work it's better than nothing.
__________________
|
|
|
10-01-2018, 06:57 PM
|
#10
|
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by apackoftwo
It isn’t a jalousie window, its the big front window
|
It is a jalousie on a 1987 trailer. The solid, non-opening front windows didn't start until 2003.
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
|
|
|
10-01-2018, 07:57 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by apackoftwo
Yup but what she did is to stop the leak until she gets it fixed
|
Please let me clarify. The front window was removed during the front rebuild. When the window went back in, I butyl taped the crap out of it because that area had previously been so badly damaged from water intrusion. Butyl tape is still oozing through the dicor that was installed over it. I'm wondering about what SunlineFan stated. It may be worthwhile to look into a seal kit for that window if available.
Thanks,
Tommie
__________________
|
|
|
10-02-2018, 08:30 AM
|
#12
|
Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,649
SUN #89
|
Hi Tommie,
For those following along, this is Tommie's window during the repair process. It is not finished yet on this pic.
I agree the jalousie windows do not seal as good in the window itself. And being as old as yours that can add to the problem.
Towing in the rain beats on the front of the camper. And on the newer non jalousie windows water can beat in either on the flange to siding seal with failing putty tape or on some on the sides of the rounded corner seals of the glass to the metal frame. But I'm not seeing this on yours.
Tommie, I agree you used the right butyl and then Dicor'ed it well on the camper to create a good window flange to siding seal. Good job. Take a look and just make sure something strange did not start a crack in the siding to flange seal, I doubt it but good to confirm. If you look close all the way around and do not see any slit or opening in the Dicor it should be good. The butyl would be melted well with the summer heat creating a good bond unless the window was not centered enough and somehow the window flange is not touching the siding.
At this juncture I would look at the physical window opening panes sealing. Either the glass to the metal frame or the pivoting metal frame to the main window frame.
Did you ever get a rock guard for the front window? I kind of forget if you did. Towing in the rain without it would not have that layer of extra water shedding protection meaning the window pane glass/glass to metal frame sealing has to do it all.
Hope this helps
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
|
|
|
10-02-2018, 09:51 AM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB
Tommie, I agree you used the right butyl and then Dicor'ed it well on the camper to create a good window flange to siding seal. Good job. Take a look and just make sure something strange did not start a crack in the siding to flange seal, I doubt it but good to confirm. If you look close all the way around and do not see any slit or opening in the Dicor it should be good. The butyl would be melted well with the summer heat creating a good bond unless the window was not centered enough and somehow the window flange is not touching the siding.
I was able to get the window put back in right in the spot on the metal as it came off. I will check this weekend on any cracks. I did not see any only where the butyl is oozing from behind the dicor. Will have to trim and add more dicor in those areas.
At this juncture I would look at the physical window opening panes sealing. Either the glass to the metal frame or the pivoting metal frame to the main window frame.
I plan to do a thorough inspection this weekend.
Did you ever get a rock guard for the front window? I kind of forget if you did. Towing in the rain without it would not have that layer of extra water shedding protection meaning the window pane glass/glass to metal frame sealing has to do it all.
Yep, the rockguard was reinstalled back before I started camping. Which is why I thought it strange that the window was leaking on the drive to the campground. And the weird thing is it poured the next night but no additional water that I could see.
|
The water was inside the window because the lower right corner of the screen was wet and a little water running down the interior wall which is how I first notice the water in the first place.
Thanks a bunch everyone!
Tommie
__________________
|
|
|
10-02-2018, 09:25 PM
|
#14
|
Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,649
SUN #89
|
Quote:
Yep, the rockguard was reinstalled back before I started camping. Which is why I thought it strange that the window was leaking on the drive to the campground. And the weird thing is it poured the next night but no additional water that I could see.
|
From what I have seen and found on rotted front walls from window leaks, I have come to this conclusion.
Towing in the rain can cause water to fly up and down at the front wall. Water coming up off the tow vehicle can fly up at the front wall. At around the top of the TV, rainwater beats into the front wall at the speed of the TV plus water running off the roof in some cases. (going slightly down hill)
A compromised putty tape seal on the bottom of the window flange to the siding gets water beat inside it from the towing water spray. In your case, your window flange seal to the siding is good, but jealous window seals even behind the rock guard are taking a hit with water at the speed of the truck underway. The jealous window panes pivot closed at the top and the bottoms are subject to a leak if there is an air space where the pane is closed to the frame or the gear mechanism is not dead tight on both sides letting one end of the window not be as tight as the other. Water flying up at those conditions could work it's way into the camper through the small air space in a window that does not close 100%.
When a gusher rain comes "down" from the sky, even with wind blowing a large percentage of the rain is downward. The window panes with the hinge on top is a natural deflection system to divert water away from the window seals. This helps keep rainwater from getting in. While some rain may fly up in a gust of wind, it is not as severe as a driving at 50 mph creating water and wind beating into the front of the camper for a good long time.
If one really wanted to prove how the water got in from towing, using a garden hose blasting up at the siding under the rock guard might mimic some of the effect of towing 50mph down the road against the wind. This could get the inside of the camper wet but could prove how the water came in. If you try this, suggest you stuff a lot of dry paper towels against the window pane seals. If the towels get wet, it came in and you can see where it did. Then try to figure out how to stop it.
Actually maybe a bright flashlight pointing at the window pane seal "might" show a light leaking out a small crack if you looked from the outside or even inside. Night time might be easier to see this then daytime. This is a drier test for sure, don't know if it will work or not but it works well on cargo doors looking for leaks.
Hope this helps
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
|
|
|
10-04-2018, 11:12 AM
|
#15
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 8
SUN #9974
|
I recently pulled my 1983 t-1550 from Massachusetts to Yellowstone and back for 3 weeks. We had a bunch of rain on the way out. The front window only leaked while driving in downpours. I figured out that there was a gap between the rock guard and the window that the rain came through and was blown up between the parts of the window that crank open by the wind created from highway speed. The solution was white duct tape that I had on hand. Once we covered the gap on the rock guard, no more rain made it in. This winter, I'll seal the gap with something a little more permanent. In the meantime, try this out.
__________________
|
|
|
10-04-2018, 11:22 AM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
|
Thank you HikeMike72!
__________________
__________________
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Sunline Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|