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Old 10-09-2018, 09:46 PM   #1
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Front window leak 04 - 2670

Well, I thought my front window only leaked when I was pulling it in the rain but appears to leak more than that. The hangar for the blinds pulled out and the paneling was weak. I removed some paneling tonight and it looks like I need to pull the window out and go from there. I know there are some links to removing the front window on a similar year but I am can't seem to find them on the boards?

I hope to pull the window and remove and replace the left bottom corner of the frame.

Here's a picture of the worst of it.

I'll keep you updated, John B. if you have the link handy for your window removal that would be very helpful.

Thanks, you guys are the experts and make it much easier to keep these wonderful campers on the road.
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Old 10-10-2018, 06:54 PM   #2
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Hi John,

See this post to help on the front window and all rebuild. It is one of many that members have made. While towing in the rain can accelerate a front window leak from a putty tape failure leak, roof water running down the front when your parked and do it in too.

2004 T2475 Repair - Project Camper No 2

I have finished the front wall and my family used the camper this summer. I have not yet made it to posting all the rest of the detail on repairing the front wall. If you get caught up to where that post stopped, let me know. Someone needing the info will help give me some "push" to get back onto it and keep the info coming. I have pics of the entire process.

I still have to take apart the rear wall to complete the damage repair back there but I did a stop gap fix this summer to buy me some time when I can have a winter to take apart the entire back of the camper and restore it. I just do not know which winter that might be, yet.... This winter is already getting super filled up with projects.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:20 PM   #3
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Wow, John B. your work is impeccable and very helpful to those of us with issues. I went through that post in detail and will a few more times to catch more details. Tonight it is raining in Maryland, with the wallboard pulled off I can tell much better if it is leaking. Viola, the piece of 2x4 that holds the bracket for the lower blind bracket is wet, and the window glass itself is dry, so that leads me to believe that the leak must be around the window edges. I will pull the window out in the next few days, replace whatever frame is significantly damaged, and reinstall and hope for the best. I have see other posts from you describing how to use the butyl tape to seal the window. Hopefully, that will stop my leaks.

At that point I will replace the damaged luan wallboard.

Thank you so much for your post and all the information you have shared.

I will keep adding to my post as I go along.
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Old 10-21-2018, 10:57 PM   #4
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Well, I opened up the whole front wall. Both corners were rotted out just like the one you posted John. I removed the rotted wood which was really just in the corners, and removed all the wallboard since some was damaged.

I bought some 1/4 inch board, put 3 coats of varnish on it tonight, and cutting that in to shape tomorrow. Since the window frame goes over the wallboard, I figured I needed to get that all done before putting the window back in. I got a roll of butyl tape and plan to install that just as you showed John B. Thanks so much for your pictures. I will post more tomorrow.
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Old 10-21-2018, 11:23 PM   #5
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I figured the leak went further... They always seem to do that.

Your doing great!

There is one thing I noticed, you said you bought 1/4" wallboard. The original wall board was 1/8". There may be one problem with the thickness difference to point out.

The window unit has an inside flange with all the screws in it that clamps the wall when you tighten it up to the window. If you cut the 1/4" wall board to the opening of the window, when you install the window the inside flange ring will have a space of about 1/8" from touching the window unit and you will see a gap between the flange ring and the window unit. The flange rings are made to clamp tight on certain thickness wall board. If you try to close a gap that large, 1/8" the flange ring may try to close it but may also flex outward and not be flat against the wall board as it is too thick.

Do you have access to a router? If you cut the window opening out of the wall board, then use the flange ring as a template and mark the outside shape of the ring. Then using a flat end mill bit, route out 1/8" deep into the 1/4" wall board where the clamp ring is. This will leave 1/8" remaining the ring will clamp flush with the window.

If you do not have a router or cannot rent or borrow one, then you can build up with 1/8" luan or other board around the window as a spacer. Trim the outer edge of the 1/8" luan to be the same as the flange ring. Then cut the 1/4" wall board to the size of the outside of the flange ring. This way the flange ring is clamping on 1/8" wll board and not the 1/4"

Hope this helps.

Thanks

John
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Old 10-22-2018, 06:52 AM   #6
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That's a HUGE help John B. I was wondering about that. I tried to stay with 1/8 but this stuff looked like it would be much better. I didn't like the 1/8 inch products they had at Home Depot.

So, I will borrow a router, mark the window flange on the piece that is already cut for the window, and take it down to 1/8 inch before installing, or maybe after I hang the board. Either way, I think that should work.

MUCH appreciated John B.
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