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Old 05-30-2018, 10:53 AM   #1
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Fridge receptacle out side under panel...

Hello again, I have found that my fridge only works on LP. I did have a 5amp fuse that was blown under the outside vented panel.I changed that and still not cooling.I have what looks like a 110 single receptacle tucked away in that compartment that has no reading safaris 110??? Is that just a regular 110v receptacle?and any idea why it would not be working? Am I save to plug a radio into it to see if it works??Or could I plug what looks like the refer plug into a extension cord to see if the works??? Thanks
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Old 05-30-2018, 10:59 AM   #2
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Yes. Plug a radio or light into it and see if it works. If it does not work and you can't get it to work (it may just need to be replaced), try plugging the refer plug into an extension cord and see if the fridge works on electric then. If it does, just replace the outlet in the refer compartment. This happened to a friend of mine once.
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Old 05-30-2018, 11:21 AM   #3
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Ok..Idouble checked the rec.and it works..Now onto digging a little deeper..Thanks
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Old 05-30-2018, 11:27 AM   #4
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I also found the light in the fridge does not work??I tested the bulb and it seams to be ok as far as ohms go??
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Old 05-30-2018, 12:22 PM   #5
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Sometimes the door switch is very finnicky. Regarding electric vs propane, the heating element in the cooling system ( sounds strange I know) might not be working.
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Old 05-30-2018, 12:41 PM   #6
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I think that is my next step???
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Old 05-30-2018, 02:12 PM   #7
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Since you found the 5amp fuse blown, that fuse is for the electric element part of the fridge control. We need to keep that in mind.

Let's start with the basics first after you replaced the fuse.

1. Is this the first time ever since you owned the camper and are trying to use the fridge on 120 VAC verses gas? Trying to understand if the problem is new or you inherited the issue from a prior owner.

2. There are 2 buttons and 2 lights on the RM2652 fridge which is what I think you have. Please confirm.

3. You have confirmed the 120 VAC receptacle has power to it? and the fridge cord plugged in.

4. To run on electric, the On/Off button should be pressed in, the Auto yellow light should be on, and the check light should be out. Please confirm that is how you are trying to run the fridge on electric.

To run the system on "gas", the On/Off button should be pressed in, you press the Gas button and then the Auto light goes out. I do not recall the gas button in our out but the auto light will go out. It is like backwards. There should be no check light on. There is no indicator light to tell you the fridge is in gas mode, only lack of being in auto mode means it is gas mode.

If you made it passed all that and you have not been running on gas for a hour or two, (the system outside is then ambient temp) and on the back of the fridge outside, the chimney tube on the right side is not getting warm, then your right, need to dig deeper.

You said you had an ohm meter? If so you can check the electric element before going through all the pulling it all apart to take it out of the boiler tube sleeve.

With the power off, both 120AC and 12 VDC, See these pics

Your fridge control board should look like this? Yes/no? The glass fuse in the middle going horizontal is they one blown?



Here is what is what


The electric element is in the side of the boiler tube area. See the black wires coming out of the round cylinder on the right. NOTE: this pic is without the fridge recall done so there is a sheet metal panel to take off to get to this


Those 2 black wires go down to the control board and plug into it. Follow them to the board and unplug them from the board.


When unplugged put the ohm meter between the 2 wires.


Between the 2 wires on your model and year camper, the ohms should be 44 ohms +/- 10% (+/- 4.4 ohms)

Also check each wire to the DC case ground, for continuity. They should "not" be common with DC ground. or AC ground. If either wire is then there is a dead short in the element or was. It may have burn't free before the fuse blew.

If the ohms are high or low from the tolerance, or an open circuit between the 2 wires, or is common to DC ground, then the element is no good. If the elements tests out OK, then the only other part is the control board itself. Since the fridge does run on gas mode, then part of the control board which is all 12 volt operated is working and it should be working enough to engage the 120 VAC element if the board is OK and the element OK.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-30-2018, 02:34 PM   #8
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I have some work do..I haven't made my maiden voyage yet.I am just testing everything toes what works and what doesn't. That is the model fridge, the lights are correct, and it does fire off on LP. There is power to the plug, so now I will test the ohms the heater..Any get back for further info.. Thanks..
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Old 06-01-2018, 05:39 AM   #9
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Well I had no reading between the wires so i ordered the new part and hope this is the last surprise I come across.. I will report back when i have it installed.
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Old 06-01-2018, 05:45 AM   #10
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I see I have a little green light on the top of the converter that says overload, I hope the fridge isn't shorted out? I also see that well I first turn the power on the light goes red for a second the green so I hope "green is good" Sorry for the sideway picture..
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:59 PM   #11
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I will see tomorrow if I still have my American Enterprises manual.

I have a foggy memory that when it is red, it means overload. Green is good. On that vintage converter you could pull full amps of the unit and it would stop sending power then until the load was reduced and it came back to life. Sort of overload proof as long as the feature worked.

If you turn the battery disconnect switch off and have the power converter plugged in and the 12 VDC items in the camper still works (lights, water pump etc) then the converter is still working. The AE converter was new enough that it can work as a stand alone converter with no battery hooked up.

I cannot seem to find a working website anymore on them. They use to have one years ago, but I changed out my older CS-6000 when the fan controls went out so I lost track if they are still in business. The CS-6000XL was a newer one that replaced the CS-6000. It was a better unit.

The converter will work well until it dies... then you most likely will need to do an upgrade. I kept all the fuses and circuit breaker intact and just replaced the power converter with a Progressive Dynamics unit and very glad I did.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 06-02-2018, 06:16 AM   #12
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I have ran into some problems with this camper, but really., it seams like everything can be fixed or upgraded. So it not like todays items that are just throw ways. Thanks again..
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Old 06-02-2018, 10:29 PM   #13
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I checked the convertor on my T-2475 which has the CS-6000XL American Enterprises converter and the lights along the top.

When I power mine up, the "overload" light is red for a second or so and then turns green.

I found the very small manual in the Sunline Owners book. Here is a page out of it describing the red green light. See under General Information.


It looks like yours is working OK.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 06-05-2018, 01:38 PM   #14
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Well the fridge is up and running!!!! Thanks again for all the great help and info.. I would say I am done working on this old girl and she is ready for the maiden voyage.. I just ave to check the air in the tires and get it inspected..Thanks again for all the help.
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Old 06-05-2018, 04:48 PM   #15
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Great! Was it just the electric element burnt out?
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Old 06-05-2018, 07:49 PM   #16
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Yes John, I guess that was it. The freezer is very cold and the fridge is down to 42. I cleaned the light switch and adjusted the rear prongs and now we even have a light that works.. Being our first camper, Im sure there are some items I need to pickup yet, like an extended waste line,(I only have the one in the rear bumper) a small charcoal grill, and some system sanitizers I see on the market. Im not going far so If I need something I can run home for it. I think I'm even letting the bike home the first time. It has been a fun project so far..
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rt.239Design View Post

Being our first camper, Im sure there are some items I need to pickup yet, like an extended waste line,(I only have the one in the rear bumper) a small charcoal grill, and some system sanitizers I see on the market.

I'm not going far so If I need something I can run home for it.

It has been a fun project so far..
Don't worry, you will be like the rest of us. I used to be a backpacking fanatic. 50#'s on my back and could hike or paddle about anywhere expect for food drops. Now I haul 10,000# behind me... and still love it...

The "acquisition" of things will continue. And some you will buy and never use... It's just the way it is!

There is always a store of sorts near enough to make it through. And hey, your camping, improvise.

A fun project, yes they are. Just about everything on our Sunlines is fixable. And that which we cannot fix or don't want too, we can find a replacement. You just keep building on the fixes you already did and before you know it, you will come close to mastering just about anything that comes as you.

The repairs I have done on our T310SR are pretty, well lets just say, sizeable... But when done I still admire it and I have not found any brand that I can buy new now that comes close to what I have. So we keep fixing....

I even have 2 project campers just to keep me busy "fixing" in case I run out....LOL

Have a good first camping trip and let us know how it goes.

Thanks

John
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