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Old 10-20-2013, 06:42 PM   #1
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fridge not cold enough after travel :(

My fridge has been too cold since I've had it about a year ago, but recently for the first time, I had it on LP while traveling. Now that I'm stationary again, I have it on max and it's barely cold enough to keep food safe.

Any troubleshooting i can do for this??

Sorry if I'm repeating something addressed in another post, but I did a search and didn't find helpful suggestions there.
Thanks!
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Old 10-21-2013, 05:14 AM   #2
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Glad you got moved safely. Maybe if you could look at the outside to see if everything looks OK at the back of the fridge. Maybe something shifted on the road and is now blocking air flow? Hope it is something simple like that.

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Old 10-21-2013, 06:36 AM   #3
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Is it still on gas or did you switch to electric?
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Old 10-21-2013, 10:12 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah View Post
Is it still on gas or did you switch to electric?
i switched to electric now
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363 View Post
Glad you got moved safely. Maybe if you could look at the outside to see if everything looks OK at the back of the fridge. Maybe something shifted on the road and is now blocking air flow? Hope it is something simple like that.

jim

Thanks Jim,
It's getting better on MAX, but still not as sttrong as it was before. I looked at the back but wasn't sure what to look for. Where do i look for something that would block air flow? it's a small dometic.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:00 AM   #6
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Get a mirror and look up the back of the fridge towards the camper roof. You should see the top coil fins and daylight. Loose insulation, bird/rat nests will block the light.
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Old 10-22-2013, 05:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Get a mirror and look up the back of the fridge towards the camper roof. You should see the top coil fins and daylight. Loose insulation, bird/rat nests will block the light.
it looked ok to me. i'm wondering if perhaps it's the altitude? maybe the fridge getting used to it...
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:08 AM   #8
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You said you used gas while traveling. If you are still using LP you can check the flame to make sure nothing has been bumped out of adjustment, the flame is good. Same for the electric heating element that the element hasn't drifted out of position or wires broken. Make sure you are really putting the control on Max and not another setting. You might try to reduce the setting a little below Max to see if it makes a difference.

I think absorbtion systems would cool different on gas at elevations but not so sure about electric. Might hake a difference.

I did see on our weather that the Carolinas had frost at night inland. You might wait a few days/weeks and just place items needing refrigeration ourside on the table and hope the bears are hibernating.
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:19 PM   #9
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sounds like to me you need to replace the thermostat control valve, I have a 1982
1550 and my rifridge after checking it out was too cold so I changed it and now its OK,
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:21 PM   #10
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I have too ask the obvious, is the camper level? In another thread you mentioned it not being level and that can have a bad effect on cooling.
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:53 AM   #11
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I also have a small problem with my fridge(domenic also) it gets too cold causing top shelf items to start to freeze.Turning slide bar down almost to bottom to lower temp didnt help.Any ideas? Thank again all Rich N
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:23 AM   #12
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Quote:
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I also have a small problem with my fridge(domenic also) it gets too cold causing top shelf items to start to freeze.Turning slide bar down almost to bottom to lower temp didnt help.Any ideas? Thank again all Rich N
Do you happen to have a thermometer inside to know what the temperature is?

These units do have a somewhat fail safe mode that if the temperature sensing element is not working or registering correctly they go into a full on all the time mode.

If you put a thermometer in the middle of the fridge and it is reading well below 30F then the temperature sensor (thermisiter) may not be working right, the wire connection is having issues or the control board may have a problem. A small cup of water (A Dixie cup size, 2 oz) on the middle shelf left in to allow it to freeze can tell you this as well.

If you have an ohm meter, you can test the thermisiter resistance with the sensor in a bucket of ice water. I do not have the ohms number handy right now but can look it up after if you make it to this point. Let us know. If you want to drill into this deeper, suggest you create separate post and gives us the year, model and serial number of the fridge and we can look up what you have in case something changed over the years.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:40 PM   #13
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again this happen to me,I turned the dial up to raise temp and it still was freezing inside. so I changed the tempature control valve and its now OK
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:20 PM   #14
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Here is the text from the Dometic diagnostic:

Quote:
Disconnect the thermistor harness from the P2, 2-pin terminal on the lower circuit board. Place the thermistor in a glass of ice water (more ice than water), approximately 33° F to 35° F. Wait 8 to 10 minutes. You should get a reading of approximately 8,000 to 10,000 ohms.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:26 PM   #15
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Yup, Gene has it!!!
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:29 PM   #16
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yes, my camper is level.
the temperature is at an ok level now, still not as cold as before. but before it was too cold it was freezing my veggies. so maybe for the better, but i wonder if in the summer it won't be cold enough. for now though it's already winter weather for the most part so i dont have to worry. i'll just have to keep my eeye on it.
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:35 PM   #17
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yes, the fridge has been on electric since arriving and going forward.
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Old 03-15-2014, 02:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363 View Post
You said you used gas while traveling. If you are still using LP you can check the flame to make sure nothing has been bumped out of adjustment, the flame is good. Same for the electric heating element that the element hasn't drifted out of position or wires broken.
hi jim-bev,
now that the i am having some warm days, i need to solve this problem. today my freezer is melting out can you tell me what/where the electric heating element is and what to look for in terms of it being out of place? the only wires i understand back there are the wires from the fan. i turned off that fan because it was a bit noisy and there seemed to be good circulation anyways. note, i don't think that is the problem since it was very cold (too cold) before it was getting too warm. makes me think that the suggestion for replacing the termostat control valve is right, but just want to be sure before i put the order in.
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:03 PM   #19
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actually, can anyone tell me what part is the thermostat control valve?? is it something in the back, or is it the controller in the front where you set the temperature? if it's the controller in front, I wouldn't think that's the problem.
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Old 03-16-2014, 08:10 AM   #20
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Whoa, hold up a second.

Now you are parked and level, right? You have a thermometer in the reefer, right? You have one outside to read ambient temp, right?
OK, switch back to gas for a couple of days and see what happens. You want to measure the temp differential between the outside air and the reefer. Check it when you get up in the am., again around noon, and later in the heat of the day. After about 3 days of this, switch back to electricity.
If the differential remains the same, all is OK.
If the readings widen, or, in other words, if the reefer starts running warmer in relation to the ambient temp, then it most likely isn't a themostat problem. The problem will be the electric heating element or the circuit board.

Keep us posted,
Teach
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