Found another factory oops

EMD_Driver · 02-07-2012, 06:22 PM

Between the kitchen and bedroom/bathroom area, there is a pocket door in our fifth wheel. Last time I closed it, I heard some plastic noises. I also noticed that the heat coming from the bedroom vents was very limited. Unfortunately, the only way to get to the duct work, was to have the water heater out of the way. Once I could see the damage, I found one crushed piece of duct and a large split in the duct, not far from it. Here's a pic of the crushed piece:

Here's another pic, showing the crushed part and the hole... Not far from it..

I'm surprised that this wasn't caught, but I can see how remote the area is and how it would be possible to miss it. My plan is to use pipe straps on the two water lines in the first pic. Them sticking up, is what allowed the duct to get smashed in the first place. Once that's done, I'll replace the damaged section of duct with some of the T-299SR ducting that I salvaged. I hope I remember the camera... To take pics of the repaired section.

Since the water heater is out, I decided to possibly try changing the water lines going to it. The plastic fittings that connect to the water heater got damaged in the removal process. I stopped by Lowes and got some 1/2PEX to 1/2MPT fittings. I'll crimp them to the existing PEX and run some braided stainless steel faucet hoses to the water heater. Here's a picture of the lines I want to try...

The hose diameter isn't as big as the PEX, but perhaps it will help the hot water last longer when we have full hookups.. When we're on the holding tanks, it'll help keep me from using so much water when I shower!

**JohnB** · 02-07-2012, 07:29 PM

Gary, good find.

With the size of the hole in that duct, a lot of air was blowing out keeping the hot water heater hot...

I'm sure you are going to feel the increased heat in the right spot now.

John

EMD_Driver · 02-09-2012, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnB

I'm sure you are going to feel the increased heat in the right spot now.

John

Actually John, that line has a tee in it and a 2" duct goes to an outlet directly below the toilet! With the vent turned the right way, the potty can be kept toasty warm!

I worked on the ducting this evening and got it all patched up! The T-299SR had some furnace outlets screwed together and they made duct couplings. I used them to splice the new piece of ducting where it belonged. Here is a pic of a coupling, inserted into one end of the splice. I used foil duct tape, to secure the couplings...:

Here's the other one, at the other end of the splice:

I also used some of the plastic pipe clips from the 299, to hold the PEX down to the floor:

Trailblazer point out that the cold water line was rubbing against the corner of the water heater pedestal. I moved it a bit out of the way and used another clip to hold it..

Once it was in, I tested the clearance. The door barely touches the top of the duct, but won't crush it now..

When I put the water heater back in, I'll have to route the ducting up and over it. I may have to use some screw cap, to hold the ducting down and away from the door. Sunline used the screw cap in several places, to support the ducting. It works very well!

EMD_Driver · 02-09-2012, 06:35 PM

As you can see, there is quite a bit of saw dust and mouse droppings in the area... I'll vacuum them up, before I put the WH back in. I sure hope I've successfully gotten rid of those pesky mice!

**JohnB** · 02-10-2012, 05:26 PM

Gary,

Looks good. Nothing like having a life time supply almost of spare camper hardware....

They for sure cut it close with the opening below the door. Is that a sliding door? I'm assuming it is. If needed the water pipes may be able to be rerouted to gain a little more clearance or trim 1/4" off the door.

On mine Sunline used the vinyl molding insert as heat duct strap. if there are concerns of the duct moving you could make a strap for it.

Gee a potty seat heater....

Thanks for sharing. Always good to see folk's projects.

John

Trailblazer · 02-10-2012, 05:55 PM

Gary, the repair looks good. I am happy to see that you were able to move the water lines away from the Water Heater Base. Definitely not too much room for the heating duct once the sliding door slides over it.

EMD_Driver · 02-10-2012, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnB

Gary,

Is that a sliding door? I'm assuming it is. If needed the water pipes may be able to be rerouted to gain a little more clearance or trim 1/4" off the door.

On mine Sunline used the vinyl molding insert as heat duct strap. if there are concerns of the duct moving you could make a strap for it.

Yep, that's the sliding pocket door that goes between the upstairs and downstairs.. Trimming the bottom of the door is not something I would even consider.. This camper is too beautiful, for me to want to do something like that..

I believe we were referring to the same vinyl, to use for duct strapping.. I have heard it called screw cap and that's what I call it..

EMD_Driver · 02-10-2012, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trailblazer

Gary, the repair looks good. I am happy to see that you were able to move the water lines away from the Water Heater Base. Definitely not too much room for the heating duct once the sliding door slides over it.

I had even given consideration to using the adapters and turning that 4" duct into 2" duct, to go under the door.. Doing that would probably restrict the flow too much and not allow enough heated air out of the furnace. Those things are picky and have to have a minimum amount of airflow..

Jim-Bev-2363 · 02-11-2012, 06:28 AM

Gary, Great looking repair. Perhaps a simple sheet metal wrap over the duct where the door might touch. That would be something that has a small thickness but enough strength to protect. It could be fastened to the wall and the floor with a few screws.

EMD_Driver · 02-11-2012, 07:26 AM

Good idea!

I was hoping to get the water heater back in today, but the snow is still coming down.. Luckily, we didn't get much...