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Old 09-03-2008, 08:27 AM   #1
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flipping axles!

ok, i have a really stupid question ----- how hard it is?

i have a 2553 that is very very low ---- the springs are attached under the axles and not on top (as i would prefer them to be).

i have looked at a couple of pictues to see the change ---- it appears there is some sort of bolting kit that allows this change --- but i cannot tell if welding is required as well.

so, that being said ---- is it a DIY project or should i just pay the dealership the $190.00 to do it for me to ensure its ok?

opinions?
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Old 09-03-2008, 10:21 AM   #2
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Is the $190 just the labor, or parts too?

If that's the whole thing, I'd go for it. The parts are roughly $90, so the $100 for them to do it is well worth it. Even if that's just the labor, for all the hastle involved in dropping the axles, installing the kit (I can't remember if it requires welding...I think it did for one part to the axle), reinstalling the axles, and extending the brake wires, you can't beat that price. It would require a full Saturday and possibly the better part of a weekend to get the job done.

Jon
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:02 AM   #3
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We paid just over $300. I believe I remember them mentioning that there was a little welding.
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:42 AM   #4
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Here's the instruction sheet for Dexter's "flip" kit:

http://i.b5z.net/i/u/1080235/f/059_551_00.pdf

And here's a link to Dexter's "flip" kits (which they call Over/Under Kits):

http://dexteraxle.com/over_under_conversion_kits

They strongly recommend that the spring pads be welded to the axles to minimize the possibility of axle slippage. I would make double sure that your installer is going to do this.

If you have a different manufacturer's axles in your Sunline, check their website for similar kits.

$90 for two kits is just about right, at least for the Dexter's. So $190 for the whole job seems pretty fair to me. YMMV.
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Old 09-03-2008, 02:01 PM   #5
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precorguy:

Why do you want to flip the axles?
Almost everyone here in Wyoming does it because they drag the trailer in rough country (lots of dirt roads and primitive camping in the sticks).
In fact there are lots of people here that shun an official campground where you have to "pay".
Personally I don't mind the trailer low.
It pulls easier and more fuel efficiently (less wind drag). The taller you are the more the wind kicks you around.
Then there is the big hoof up into the trailer. You might need another step or stool to pack with you.
The stabilizer jacks in the four corners will need big blocks of wood under them and lots more cranking than you did before the flip.
If you don't go to real primitive backwoods sites I can't see an upside.
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Old 09-03-2008, 09:22 PM   #6
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I have to be careful in my 2553, especially when going into gas stations. I do not drag often, and when I do, I start thinking about lifting the trailer. So far I have resisted. I almost don't want to read these posts for fear I will be talked into it. But as long as I am staying mostly at state parks, I will keep mine close to the ground.
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:04 AM   #7
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why lift the trailer ---- well mostly drag ---- it does drag when going into and out of some gas stations (oddly enough mostly in the US and not Canada --- don't know why that is) ----- our driveway is ok usually - i have scraped it once and occassionally at some campgrounds.

at first i was - no need to lift it - it will be ok and i like it lower

now --- heck, its only going to add a few inches (i heard about 4-6") and will improve the drag situation ---- one of the drag protector things (can't remembe what they are called) is warn almost through at the bottom.

another beneift will be the higher sewer outlet - sometimes it is a bit low - still works but a bit higher would be a benefit.

i suspect that the added height will decrease my gas mileage - but i can't image that it will be a whole lot - not enough that i am going to worry about it.

as far as steps are concerned - i am going to wait and see how high the first step is before i worry about changing it --- i may just make one to carry with us - perhaps a little deck sort of thing to toss in the back of the truck ---- ok, now i sound like a redneck - "you know your a redneck when ....."

hope that helps.

oh, price wise ---- the $190.00 is labour - parts are additional - i see that a kit is about $50.00 from dexter (per axle)---- so looks to be around $300.00 plux taxs - and i will ensure that they do some welding.

i am planning on adding a little "A" frame welded support while it is there and they are working on it - since it shouldn't take them more than an hour to do and i will supply the parts.

will take before and after pics to post
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Old 09-04-2008, 07:37 AM   #8
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I can understand your hesitation about lifting your trailer. Let me say "Been there, finally doing that". I don't have dexter axles with the springs, I have Alko Rubber Ryde, and after 3 years of dragging, scraping, ruining a skid bar, I have choosed to do the lift. Sunny is at the shop right now waiting for a 3" lift. My Sunline was a "custom build" and "IF" I had known when I ordered my Sunline to have the trailing arm on the axle set at a different starting angle, Sunny would have come right from the factory lifted. If I only had a occasional dragging problem, I would continue to deal with the issue, BUT, my real dragging is done right in my own yard/driveway. I drag the tongue jack and then the skid bars. I have attempted many different approaches to my yard, and I still drag. I can't afford to totally re-design/slop/angle, whatever to change the roadway/driveway, so Sunny has to be lifted. But, it WAS a BIG decision, many pros & cons. But, I can't be tearing up the components either.
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:01 AM   #9
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Lance, I wouldn't be flipping axles on a 1950. We didn't do it to our previous Sunlines, which were as long as 24'. The problem comes with length. The last time we were wandering the Schaeffer's lot we noticed that almost every used longer Sunline they had had bent skid bars, and even twisted frames in the rear.
Precorguy, We got 4" with the dexter lift kit. If you look on Camping World they have an awsome lightweight aluminum step that's on sale right now. It's perfect for the amount of lift you'll get, and is worth the rediculous price. As to gas mileage we haven't seen a difference, but the jury is still out on that. We have a long trip coming up at the end of the month and I'll report our mileage after that. We normally get 13.3 mpg.
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:39 AM   #10
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Tweety:
You make an excellent point with the length.
I failed to consider that.
The longer trailers could definitely see a benefit but I would still be careful not to get into a "higher is better" mindset.
I have seen shorter trailers that just looked odd when the axles were flipped. It seemed to be pointless.
The kids all have to "lift" their trucks out here.
I just want to tell them all they are doing is:
reducing vehicle stablility & handling
reducing gas mileage
reducing power since now the vehicle grabs wind like a sail
reducing the vehicle's resale value
and finally it increases wear and tear on vehicle components not made for the new geometry.
A trailer is different however - if you are routinely dragging while traveling to your usual destinations a "little lift" may be needed.
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Old 09-04-2008, 09:27 AM   #11
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AHHHH - I did forget about the low sewer drain issue. This is usually not a problem. But when it is, it is a big problem.

The challenge is usually grey water. My plan was to get a long garden hose that could be run from the drain to the 'TANK' placed somewhere lower than the trailer.

It would be nice to have a higher drain though

ParTimCmpr
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:08 PM   #12
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Seriously considering the flip!

Our T-1950 can have issues leaving the driveway if we are not careful. Also, the hitch sits so low on the tow vehicle that it can drag in some places as well but so far the trailer tongue has not dragged. Then there is the possibility of storing the Honda 3000i generator on the rear carrier and towing with the generator on the carrier. This can't happen without flipping the axles. The current plan is to take the trailer to a local shop that builds utility trailers and discuss our thoughts. This will be a winter project.
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Old 09-04-2008, 04:45 PM   #13
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update --- spoke with my rv tech today and was provided with the estimate for the following:

> 4" lift via flipping axles (includes welding)
> weld install of "C" channel on A frame to add strength
> weld install of 1 X 3" box (8ft) across the header to add strength
> check and adjust brakes (providing no parts required)
> repair - as best as possible, the small crack in the siding above the radius corner of the rear door

approx $400.00 plus tax - i am providing the steel as i can get it cheaper, they are doing the work - welding (i need to learn this trade - there have been so many times when i could have used it)

i am very happy with this quote and it will only take them a couple of days to do it - nice!!!!

i am going to take pics before and after and will post.

opinions?
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Old 09-06-2008, 08:13 AM   #14
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precorguy, We also live in Southern Ontario and I am seriously looking at doing the axle flip to our T2753. Can you tell me the name of the dealer you are using to do the axle flip. The dealer we purchased our trailer from went out of business and I want to find a dealer who knows Sunlines to do the axle flip.
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Old 09-06-2008, 06:35 PM   #15
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trailblazer

well i deal with mobilife rv kichener --- excellent dealership - ask to speak to Jeff - he is the man in the know out there and does excellent work.

i have sent you a pm with additional information --- i will keep you and all posted on what happens with the lift --- going to be taking some pics.

if anyone is camping at albion hills north of toronto - come by and say hi!

alex
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:37 AM   #16
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Can this be done with round axles or just the square ones? Has anyone done it with round axles?

Jim
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimhanus View Post
Can this be done with round axles or just the square ones? Has anyone done it with round axles?
The majority (if not all) of the axle flips documented in either Repairs and Maintenance or Modifications are done on round axles.

There is documentation in the Files area under Sunline Axles about the axles and there is also a instruction and info sheet on the flip kit from Dexter.
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Old 11-09-2010, 01:47 PM   #18
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My main reason for doing this was overall ground clearance, and my axle would occasionally hit the bottom of the gray water tank (I could see marks on it from the axle). I replaced the springs a few years ago thinking they might be weak but it didn't make a difference. Found a kit on eBay for $15 and $9 shipping. Took about 2 hours to install on my 1550. Hardest part was getting the top and bottom parallel. Note where the wires for the brakes come out of the axle; right under the new bracket! I'll have to put something on the wires to make sure they don't rub on anything. Gained just over 4" of additional clearance.
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File Type: jpg axleflip2.jpg (52.3 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg axleflip3.jpg (50.6 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg trailer2.jpg (52.2 KB, 6 views)
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Old 11-09-2010, 05:05 PM   #19
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Well Jim - you certainly didn't waste anytime doing that mod!!!!
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Old 11-09-2010, 05:57 PM   #20
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Why wait? Winter will be here before I'm ready for it. Plus, finding the kit on eBay certainly helped...
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