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Old 12-13-2016, 07:30 PM   #1
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Fixing up my 2000 Sunline Solaris T-2653

I figured I would start a thread on fixing up the water damaged area of my Sunline. I bought it used in 2005 and thought I had an issue with the onboard water tank that leaked and rotted out the floor in the rear. I pulled the carpet up, took out the beds and replaced the insulation and OSB with foam board insulation and plywood. I went over the top of that section with a cheap piece of vinyl and then covered the whole floor with 12X12 peel and stick vinyl tiles. I'm not a big fan of carpet in my campers. Last year that section started to feel soft but I didn't do much about it. Then one night I went to put sheets on my bed and my hand went through the wallboard. After we were done with the season, I decided to cut out the rotted wallboard and look for the issue. I found some info on this site that it may be a roof and trim leaking issue so I headed outside to check it out.
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:14 PM   #2
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I climbed up to check out the roof and found the back was wavy, some of the weatherproofing was cracked and some screw heads were rusted.
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File Type: jpg Steve PFE Iphone 6 12_13_16 386.jpg (64.1 KB, 28 views)
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:23 PM   #3
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So, I took off the trim and pulled back the rubber roofing, cut out the wet cardboard roofing material that is also known as budboard, cleaned out the acorns and all the wet insulation. I don't even want to know how the acorns got up there. LOL!
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:49 PM   #4
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I dried out all of the wood and reinforced that piece of ceiling board with some heavy plastic sheeting and liquid nails. I sprayed it all down with Flex Seal. Some of the gussets were messed up so I cut new ones and replaced them. I picked up a $10 piece of 1/8" wallboard from Home Depot. It has a white smooth finish on one side that I faced up so the glue would flow easy and the rubber roof would go back down smoothly. I squeegeed the whole section to get all air bubbles out, nailed the edges with a pneumatic stapler and cleaned up all the trim so I could put it back on. The trim took longer than anything because the butyl tape takes a while to get off and you need to use paint thinner to get the small stuff off. I bought the Dicor rubber roof kit since I didn't know how much glue, butyl tape and dicor sealant I would need or if I had to do another section next spring. I didn't have time to get pictures because I was trying to beat the weather but this is how it looked with the roof glued back down. Of course, the factory didn't over hang the back edge like they did the sides which is probably a good reason why the water got in. Also, I bought stainless steel screws for the trim.
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Old 12-14-2016, 03:40 PM   #5
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Wow, looks like a ton of work, nice job. Thanks for all the pics. Hope I never need to go through that.

Is it my imagination or are most water leaks in the rear corners? I looked at a bunch of trailers before buying mine and it seems to be the norm.
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Old 12-14-2016, 05:20 PM   #6
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Wow, looks like a ton of work, nice job. Thanks for all the pics. Hope I never need to go through that.

Is it my imagination or are most water leaks in the rear corners? I looked at a bunch of trailers before buying mine and it seems to be the norm.
Thanks! It's not that bad. You just need to remember how they are built in the factory to try and avoid having to work from the outside in. I cleaned up the inside a bit but didn't get pictures yet and I'm ready to patch things and reframe some areas. Once I get the floor where I can walk on it, I'll fix the walls, wallpaper the whole back section since I can't find anything that matches the original and then put down a pergo like floor.

It sure helps when folks post stuff here and on you tube. It is much easier to figure what to do and how to do it which cuts down on time.

From what I have seen on line, the leaks are mainly in the corners. I really think it is because the factory "short sheets" the roof ends so they don't overlap like the sides do giving the water an easier way in. I could have gotten away with not messing with the walls if I had noticed the leaks earlier but what can you do?

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Old 12-14-2016, 10:19 PM   #7
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Just a quick tip. To help dry out faster take a shop vac and put the hose on the exhaust. Slip other end of hose into cavity you want to dry out. You won't believe the amount of heat it puts out.

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Old 12-15-2016, 08:07 PM   #8
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Just a quick tip. To help dry out faster take a shop vac and put the hose on the exhaust. Slip other end of hose into cavity you want to dry out. You won't believe the amount of heat it puts out.

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Thanks for the tip. It looks like the inside is dry since I replaced the roof in the back and re-gouped those trim pieces.

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Old 01-03-2017, 07:16 PM   #9
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update 12/26/16 to 1/2/17

I had the week off between Christmas and New Years Day so I spent some time working on the inside of the camper. I cleaned up the black tarp like material that sits between the frame and the floor frame and patched up some holes, I framed in the bad sections of floor and started on the rear corner walls that were water damaged. It rained pretty good over that time and it looked like I was getting water in from at least the rear brake light so I pulled that off too and replaced the butyl tape and gooped around the screws. Here are some pictures to give you an idea.


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Old 01-03-2017, 07:27 PM   #10
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Looking good Sep!

Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing. This really helps folks in the future. We all learn from these posts.

Thanks

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Old 01-03-2017, 07:28 PM   #11
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fix up continued

Once I pulled out the rotted corner frame work, I got a good look at how the aluminum corner meets and that the original butyl tape between the 2 sections of aluminum was real brittle and flaking off. I backed out all of the screws on the exterior corner trim and all of the rusted up staples. I put in new butyl tape, reformed the aluminum corner, cut in two pieces of frame work, stapled the aluminum back into the new frame pieces and refit the corner trim. It didn't come out too bad considering I was doing it in the rain. It sure was nice to get back in the camper as I had the heat going. LOL!


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Old 01-03-2017, 07:53 PM   #12
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Looking good Sep!

Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing. This really helps folks in the future. We all learn from these posts.

Thanks

John

Thanks John!

I had some time and I was getting in a groove so it was pretty fun to see it come apart and then go back together. I tried not to get discouraged with the little water drops I was seeing considering all of the work I did to tighten up the rear part of the roof. I climbed back up and looked at my work to see if there were any spots that water could be getting in. I found one spot so I laid down a bead of thick blue food coloring and let the rain do its job while I worked inside. Well, no blue inside so I know that spot was good. I'll have to check that exterior corner trim next so we will see. The screws around the brake light looked clean and dry this afternoon when I checked it. I need to find the right sized vinyl trim for the exterior corner trim. I ordered some on line but it was too wide and I couldn't get it to work into the grooves. It was a "true" 1" unlike wood, it wasn't narrower than 1" like I expected. The old stuff I pulled out was a bit wider than 3/4" so I'm guessing that is what I have to go with. What width did you use on yours?

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Old 02-06-2017, 09:54 PM   #13
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Just a quick update. I fired up the furnace yesterday and ran it from 2 - 10:30 last night so it was nice and warm so I could spray some of that Rustoleum/Flex Seal stuff in the corner that I replaced the wood frame and on the screws that hold the brake light on. Once that was done, I added some scabs so the new paneling would have something to mount to and sistered some scabs on the back wall by the trap door. The next step was to carve out some wood so the 110V wire, cable wire and the few 12v wires were tucked out of the way for the paneling. A paddle bit and my cordless drill and the multimax tool did the trick. I used some shielded electrical staples to keep everything in place.
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Old 05-26-2017, 11:54 AM   #14
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I agree with JohnB this post will help me and many others thank you for sharing
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Old 05-30-2017, 09:08 PM   #15
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Here is the latest..

Here is the latest..

I finished up the framing and put in the insulation. Then, I cut and installed the wallboard. The new vinyl wallpaper just came in today but I'm waiting on the HD wallpaper glue. I'm trying to figure out how and where to start the "floating" floor. I have to pull up the 12 X 12 vinyl squares that have lifted. As you can see, I still have some of the original vinyl down and some of the vinyl base that I put down before I did the whole thing with the 12 X 12 peel and sticks. I'm trying to get away with not putting down that thin foam cushion so the floor doesn't get raised any higher than the thickness of the laminate. I'm up for suggestions if anyone has done theirs with it.

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Old 05-30-2017, 11:18 PM   #16
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Hi SEP,

You are making progress. Were you able to find board the same thickness as the original for the walls? I had considered wallpaper but decided on painting the side walls for the time being.

Thanks for the update. It helps a lot.

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Old 05-31-2017, 08:11 PM   #17
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Hi SEP,

You are making progress. Were you able to find board the same thickness as the original for the walls? I had considered wallpaper but decided on painting the side walls for the time being.

Thanks for the update. It helps a lot.

Tommie
Hey Tommie,

Yeah, but it has been slow with things going on and the weather. The white Home Depot wallboard that I used is pretty close to being perfect. My neighbor gave me a 4X4 sheet that he had left over when he fixed his so I just went out and got two more full sheets for the inside and the roof. I've papered my first camper and painted the second one but I like the look of the heavy vinyl paper so that's what I'm doing.

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Old 05-31-2017, 10:03 PM   #18
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Thanks SEP,

I thought I checked at Home Depot. What is the thickness, 1/4" or 1/8"? What I bought was 5mm which is a little thicker than what was there (1/8"). Even though I've already cut the pieces to go back in, I may go back to the Home Depot here and check again. This may be a bit OCD but I am trying to cut down on sanding. The difference in thickness won't make much of a difference under the hamper because that is the cargo area but the wall in the dinette area I would like to have it as smooth as possible. I want to try to get those pieces stapled in this weekend if it doesn't rain again.

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Old 05-31-2017, 10:56 PM   #19
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I'm trying to figure out how and where to start the "floating" floor. I have to pull up the 12 X 12 vinyl squares that have lifted. As you can see, I still have some of the original vinyl down and some of the vinyl base that I put down before I did the whole thing with the 12 X 12 peel and sticks. I'm trying to get away with not putting down that thin foam cushion so the floor doesn't get raised any higher than the thickness of the laminate. I'm up for suggestions if anyone has done theirs with it.
Hi Steve,

I looks like you are doing laminate flooring. I myself have not done any of that yet so I do not have any direct experience on it.

Some thoughts that might help as I'm thinking through your situation. You may already know these.

The peel and stick, if you are going over them, make sure they are stuck well, staple even if needed just make sure the staple is flush, putty knife scrape for anything sticking up. You do not want a peel and stick to shift sideways and shingle or lift the laminate floor.

If you are not using the foam cushion, at any thickness changes in subfloor, that "might" be an area of concern. The new flooring may seek that joint difference and over time start a crack in the new floor in high traffic areas.

These "thoughts" are based on putting linoleum flooring down. If the sub base moves, it's bad and if there is any joint height difference (dirt etc) it will start a cracking situation in the linoleum flooring as there is not 100% even support under it. I suspect laminate flooring can have the same issue. It just may be somewhat more forgiving the then linoleum.

Hope this helps and your doing good on the rebuild.

John
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Old 06-01-2017, 09:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Hi Steve,

I looks like you are doing laminate flooring. I myself have not done any of that yet so I do not have any direct experience on it.

Some thoughts that might help as I'm thinking through your situation. You may already know these.

The peel and stick, if you are going over them, make sure they are stuck well, staple even if needed just make sure the staple is flush, putty knife scrape for anything sticking up. You do not want a peel and stick to shift sideways and shingle or lift the laminate floor.

If you are not using the foam cushion, at any thickness changes in subfloor, that "might" be an area of concern. The new flooring may seek that joint difference and over time start a crack in the new floor in high traffic areas.

These "thoughts" are based on putting linoleum flooring down. If the sub base moves, it's bad and if there is any joint height difference (dirt etc) it will start a cracking situation in the linoleum flooring as there is not 100% even support under it. I suspect laminate flooring can have the same issue. It just may be somewhat more forgiving the then linoleum.

Hope this helps and your doing good on the rebuild.

John
Thanks John! Yes, I have already been popping out the peel and sticks that have lifted. That's one reason you see a hodge podge of different flooring in that picture with the strip of laminate. I'm still toying with the foam cushion and your explanation makes good sense so I will probably put it down. I've been out of commission since Monday and I'm itching to get out there but stitches, sweat and dust are not a good mix. The wallpaper came in on Tuesday and the glue today so I've got what I need to get it done. Steve
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