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Old 03-13-2019, 04:22 PM   #1
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Exterior cleaning

I have a '99 T-1950 that was pretty cruddy when I bought it last fall. With the approach of warmer weather, it's time to think about breaking out the hoses & brushes.

A couple of years ago, I cleaned the vinyl siding on my house with a product, I forget the name, that was fantastic--spray it on, let sit for a few minutes and then rinse off. It worked so well that I tried it out on my white E250 rustbucket cargo van (nothing to lose), and it was great on that as well.

I believe the main ingredients were bleach and hydrogen peroxide.

Is something like that likely to harm this camper any more than the elements have over the last 20 years?
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Old 03-16-2019, 05:38 PM   #2
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If it's super nasty try "Bartenders Friend" on the bad stains.
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Old 03-16-2019, 06:08 PM   #3
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Thanks; doubt I'll need to resort to that--except maybe to blend the areas where I removed all the decals yesterday. Kind of hated to do that, but every single one was curled and peeling.

Current challenge, just discovered today, is to find/fabricate a key for the battery cutoff switch.



Found a couple of possibles on Amazon; if they don't fit, I'll just have to make one. Previous owner has no clue where it might be. Ah, the joys of vintage.
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:05 AM   #4
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Here you go buy a switch for $12 and have two keys. Pretty much standard switch we use them on vintage race cars. JT&T (2699F) - Battery Isolator Switch with 2 Keys, 1 Pc.
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Old 03-17-2019, 09:32 AM   #5
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Thanks. That's an option if the pair of keys I ordered for $6 don't fit. Small gamble.

I'm trying to keep the necessary wrenching to a minimum so I can spend more time on elective wrenching.

Planning to add a solar setup similar to yours, among other things.
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Old 03-17-2019, 10:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinstaafl View Post
I believe the main ingredients were bleach and hydrogen peroxide.

Is something like that likely to harm this camper any more than the elements have over the last 20 years?
Strong bleach left on decals is not good. The prior owner of my T1950 told me how she faded the front decal to death.

hydrogen peroxide in the higher concentrations can do a lot of things, some which are not good.

If your old truck did not die from it, suggest you test a small area on the Sunline before going flat out with it.

A key to any of theses cleaners is to make sure you rinse well after use. The chemical baking on drying is what can cause the issues.

I use LA's Totally Awesome. You can find it at Dollar General and some of the other dollar stores. This one Awesome All Purpose Concentrated Cleaner (32oz) | LA's Totally Awesome

It comes in different sizes. It has been $1 a quart.

You can dilute it and wash with it. On tough black streaks etc. I wet the wall, use it full strength, use a Magic Eraser (by Mr Clean) and do it in small areas to keep a wet edge. Do not let it dry or you have to start over. Rinse real well.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 03-18-2019, 06:49 AM   #7
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Quote:
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If your old truck did not die from it, suggest you test a small area on the Sunline before going flat out with it.
I actually did that just yesterday. I couldn't stand looking at the green mold on the A frame any more. Cleaned that and the rock guard with no apparent ill effects.

The rest can wait until after I re-caulk and resurface the roof, as soon as the weather gets a bit warmer. That job should keep me busy for an hour or so.

I'll keep an eye out for that Totally Awesome; thanks.
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:27 PM   #8
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Old decals suck! I spent hours with a heat gun frankly if you want them off that's the only way. If they are somewhat in one piece you can peel a lot off until you get to a crack. Then I went after the left over glue! Primer, red paint, lots of newsprint and tape looks pretty good it ain't a restoration but it looks good for 29 year old camper!
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Old 03-18-2019, 06:31 PM   #9
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It actually wasn't as bad as I expected. Made a mess with the first decal I tried, but by the time I was done with that, I had pretty much learned how to strike a balance with the heat.

Slow and steady, with the gun just far enough away not to scorch my [leather callused] fingers, and very little adhesive was left behind. That cleaned up pretty easily with mineral spirits. But yeah, the cracks are annoying.

I haven't decided whether I want to get into making it pretty with a bunch of rattle cans, or just settle for a lack of raggedy edges. In the big picture, I tend to value function over form.
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Old 03-21-2019, 12:11 PM   #10
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Trailer cleaner

Try the black streak removed from the store. Works great and work in small areas at a time.
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Old 03-21-2019, 03:24 PM   #11
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Try automotive compound

I use car finish compound for streaks or anywhere the white isn't so white anymore. I apply with a damp cloth and I keep the siding wet. It's very effective. The compound rinses off easily.



Everyone is always looking for easy way with some magic cleaner you can spray on and let it do all the work and maybe you could wiggle a soft bush, rinse and get some amazing result. I wish it were true but I don't think you'll ever get better results than using compound. It's a matter of level of effort you want to put into it. If you choose one of the miracle methods it will leave the paint more vulnerable to even more dirt and possibly chalking. A good paint protectant/sealant/wax will resolve that. I always recommend protecting your work and paint regardless of how you clean it.


I have been using a retired product called Armorall Butter Wax. It does not haze dry. Just wipe-on and leave it. I wish I could find a replacement product. However, I experimented with ceramic coatings on my cars last year and the results are stunning after a North-Eastern winter. Dirt and salt shed right off in the car wash. I might have to try that on my Sunny this year.
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Old 03-21-2019, 07:14 PM   #12
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In one breath you espouse a cleaning solution, and in the next you castigate anyone wanting to use anything but elbow grease.

There's nothing wrong with taking advantage of any way we can come up with to minimize the manual effort involved (taking into account health and environmental concerns, of course).

I do fully agree that a post-cleaning treatment of the raw surface is a Good Thing. It helps keep new deposits from sticking so readily, and makes them easier to remove when they do.
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Old 03-22-2019, 09:51 AM   #13
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I have cementboard siding on my house, and we tried "Wet and Forget" on the north side, with good results. Don't know what's in it. Has anybody tried it on their Sunlines?
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Old 03-22-2019, 04:28 PM   #14
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Not exactly

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In one breath you espouse a cleaning solution, and in the next you castigate anyone wanting to use anything but elbow grease.
.

Not exactly what I was saying at all. Simply sharing that in my experience, if I want the black streaks completely gone and the white, white. Compound will do it well. When I mention everybody is looking for a magic cleaner, that includes me. Don't we all want the best results with the least amount of effort? I do not disagree with the use of cleaning solutions nor did I say anything like that. In fact I said that If you choose one of the miracle methods, use of a protectant regardless of how you clean (solution/compound) your paint will save your work.


I think it's nice that all these people took time out to answer your questions and share their experiences with different cleaners. Hopefully you'll find some of their answers useful.
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