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02-13-2008, 12:33 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 4
SUN #519
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Electrical Issues for a Prospective Purchase
I am new to the forum as I am considering buying a T-2251 1991 model. When connected to the house AC current the air conditioner works, but nothing else. I have check the breaker box and check the inline fuses around the battery box on the tongue of the trailer after reading other posts. Is there something I am missing that perhaps turns the rest of the power on? Again, I checked the breakers that are just above the converter and they have all been reset and are in the "ON" position. Any help would be appreciated as I would not want to pass on an otherwise nice trailer, especially one that have such an active owners group. Thanks, Capt JR
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02-13-2008, 03:04 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Maine
Posts: 160
SUN #379
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Almost everything else in the trailer is 12 volt with the exception of the microwave, and range hood if you have them. There should be 12 v fuses in the converter which may be blown. Otherwise the converter may not be working. Does it make any noise at all? All of the converters I've had have made at least a little noise when they're working.
I'm sure you'll get more detailed adivce, but if it's just a bad converter, they're not really expensive to change.
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Chris & Tara
Ben & Jerry (The 2 Beagles)
2017 F-150 Crew Cab
2003 2570
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02-13-2008, 06:33 PM
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#3
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Chris,
Does your '77 have a converter like the '96 style? I remember in my 1550 I only had a couple circuit breakers and no fuses or anything else. I'm thinking Lee probably has this setup.
Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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02-13-2008, 06:34 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 280
SUN #382
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It could also possibly be a dead or missing battery.
Our 2005 Owner's Manual for the converter states that the 12v accessories will not work without a battery wired up.
Check out this other thread:
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/ph...pic.php?t=1543
It would appear that some versions of the converters are OK without a battery, and others are not.
I know that our 12v goodies will only work with a battery wired up- I checked.
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02-13-2008, 08:47 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 4
SUN #519
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I connected a battery charger to the battery today and all of the 12V worked perfectly, but not the refrigerator; however, once I removed the charger the everything stopped. Made me believe the inverter was hosed. Thoughts? Capt JR
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02-13-2008, 08:50 PM
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#6
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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I'd say that battery is gone. If it won't hold any charge, there's no bringing it back. It probably has no water in it either.
Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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02-14-2008, 06:49 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Maine
Posts: 160
SUN #379
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Jon,
The '77 doesn't have a converter. It was optional on the SC version, and not available on the RC.
I'll most likely add one when I rewire the trailer.
__________________
Chris & Tara
Ben & Jerry (The 2 Beagles)
2017 F-150 Crew Cab
2003 2570
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02-14-2008, 07:19 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 932
SUN #246
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Capt....
Your fridge will NOT work on gas or AC w/o a 12 v. source as the controls are all 12 v. Some furnaces will not ignite either. Put a good battery on and retry everything..Are you getting lights?Also, your fridge will not make any sound when it is "running"--has no compressor to run. You will have to leave it on for a few hours to see if it cools in either AC or gas mode. You can check the coils outside at the back of the fridge to see if they get hot which will tell you it is operating and trying to cool.
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1981 Sunline1350
'86 & '87 Sunline1661
'85 2100& '87 2262 Sunlines
'96 2553 & '95 1950 Sunlines
'95 and '98 Solaris 2653's
2002 Solaris T-2363
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02-14-2008, 07:45 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 280
SUN #382
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...and don't forget to make sure the fridge is OFF when unpluggged and empty- the controls will drain a deep cycle in less than a full day- don't ask how I know, that way I won't have to tell
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02-14-2008, 07:48 PM
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#10
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooney
Our 2005 Owner's Manual for the converter states that the 12v accessories will not work without a battery wired up.
It would appear that some versions of the converters are OK without a battery, and others are not.
I know that our 12v goodies will only work with a battery wired up- I checked.
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Greg
H'mm on your 2005, what brand converter/model do you have?
Both of my 2004 TT's with the American Enterprise converter will run the entire trailer with no battery. As long as the hot battery lead is not touching ground. Or the battery disconnect switch off.
I use this all the time. And it does say in the American manual that it will do this.
I wonder what changed in 2005?
And I do fully agree some of the older converters pending barnds etc need a battery.
Just curious to learn new stuff.
John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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02-15-2008, 11:21 AM
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#11
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 1,920
SUN #98
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John,
Our 2005 has an American Enterprise converter, same as your 2004s.
We have the CS6000XL, which I think is the same converter as in your 2004s.
Though I don't remember if I've ever tried operating things without a battery or with the kill switch off. So I can't help there.
Hutch
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Mary & Tom (aka Hutch)
2015 Jayco Eagle Premier 361REQS
2014 GMC Sierra 3500HD 4x4 CC D/A
Sunlines: 2005 Solaris T-280SR; 1999 Solaris T-2670; 1998 Saturn T-24A
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02-15-2008, 04:13 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 280
SUN #382
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Oddly enough, ours has the American one like in the photo you had posted somewhere...but no kill switch to be found...and it didn't work things without a battery...
Our coach has a couple other inconsistencies- like no anniversary picture advertised in the '05 brochure...and no disconnect I can find as advertised in the '04 one...and when the website was working, the floor plan was only advertised under 2004, was built/ finished in December '04 as an '05 (per the Certificate of Origin).
The plot thickens- someone call The Hardy Boys or Nancy Drew!
**?Threadjack under way?**
I was down at the camper today and did a couple things....spare tire carrier and window tint (on a couple). Tint came out OK, esp. considering the caulking for the glass has ragged edges coming out. May not be perfect, but it'll do the job (no looky-loos). Hopefully the furnace running and heat blasting will keep the glue set- it's supposed to get chilly tonight. If not, no big loss, I can redo it!
**back to battery stuff**
Battery kept the furnace fan going full blast for several hours- glad the furnace works as well as it does- now I know it can reach VERY high temps in there!
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02-15-2008, 05:26 PM
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#13
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooney
Our coach has a couple other inconsistencies- like no anniversary picture advertised in the '05 brochure
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Greg,
I do have one of those pictures, so if you'd like, I can scan it for you so you can print it off and have frame it. It wasn't real high quality to begin with, so if you print it on a good quality photo paper, it'll be better than new. Just frame it and screw it up to the wall.
Jon
__________________
2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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02-15-2008, 06:42 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 280
SUN #382
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Jon,
That would be sweet. It's one of those things that I wished we had as soon as I saw it- just for the sake of having the pic. on the wall.
Thanks!
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02-15-2008, 08:25 PM
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#15
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTHutch
John,
Our 2005 has an American Enterprise converter, same as your 2004s.
We have the CS6000XL, which I think is the same converter as in your 2004s.
Hutch
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Hutch
I happen to have and “older” CX6000 in the 2004 T310 made in Oct 2003. In the 2004 T2499 made in May of 2004 it has the newer/upgraded CX6000XL.
I called American enterprises a few months ago and talked to there technical guru. In 2008 now they even have upgrade the prior CX6000XL over the ones we have. The 2008 model has 3 stage charging, variable speed fans.
I talked to him by the issues I was having with the CX6000 in the T310. I was quizzing him on the older model and how good or not it was as a battery charger. He did not have many good things to say about it but praised the 2008 model. They did not add the desulphation mode to the new 2008 which I was also after.
After this weekend I will have upgraded my older CX6000 to a Progressive Dynamics Intellipower PD9260C.
If you have the CX6000XL, you can turn the battery switch off and run on shore power no problem. I do it all the time and teh American manual says it can work this way. I can even do this on the older CX6000.
Thanks
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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02-15-2008, 08:36 PM
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#16
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12,643
SUN #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mooney
Oddly enough, ours has the American one like in the photo you had posted somewhere...but no kill switch to be found...and it didn't work things without a battery...
Our coach has a couple other inconsistencies- like no anniversary picture advertised in the '05 brochure...and no disconnect I can find as advertised in the '04 one...and when the website was working, the floor plan was only advertised under 2004, was built/ finished in December '04 as an '05 (per the Certificate of Origin).
The plot thickens- someone call The Hardy Boys or Nancy Drew!
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Greg,
H’mm yes indeed the plot does thicken.
It does seem you may have “something” different.
This is the battery disconnect switch on my 2004 models. The red knob on the TT frame across the front
If you have no battery disconnect, how do you kill the battery power when you store the camper to not drain the battery dead from the propane detector draining it dead?
Also some day when you get to the camper, pop a pic of the inside of the converter and give us a model number. Something is not adding up.
OK I know this may sound silly to ask, but I’ll ask it anyway. On your 2005 model, You have no battery in, but you are plugged into shore power. The red hot battery lead is not touching the frame and you have no lights inside the TT?
Thanks
John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC
Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
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02-17-2008, 10:23 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 4
SUN #519
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My issue is that while the battery charger is plugged in the lights work and so does all of the electrical inside including the water pumps etc. the battery definitely does not hold a charge; however, while plugged into shore power, nothing works except the Air conditioner. I can only conclude that the inverter is bad, is that correct. Also, does the inverter also serve as the battery charger? thanks for everyone's suggestions and help so far. Capt JR
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02-17-2008, 10:25 AM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 4
SUN #519
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Also does that mean that the refrigerator is 12V/Gas vs. 110v/Gas? Thanks, Capt JR
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02-19-2008, 06:43 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 280
SUN #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by "JohnB
Greg,
H’mm yes indeed the plot does thicken.
It does seem you may have “something” different.
This is the battery disconnect switch on my 2004 models. The red knob on the TT frame across the front
If you have no battery disconnect, how do you kill the battery power when you store the camper to not drain the battery dead from the propane detector draining it dead?
[b
One merely disconnects the battery leads....(and then I take the battery away)[/b]
Also some day when you get to the camper, pop a pic of the inside of the converter and give us a model number. Something is not adding up.
The converter picture would look just like yours. CS6000XL or something (I know it said 6000 and XL).
OK I know this may sound silly to ask, but I’ll ask it anyway. On your 2005 model, You have no battery in, but you are plugged into shore power. The red hot battery lead is not touching the frame and you have no lights inside the TT?
Ayup. It does the same thing with no battery and plugged into my truck (did it yesterday for grins)- I will get outside lights, but nothing at all inside.
I think that maybe without the battery disconnect switch they did something inside the fusebox. It's no big deal to me, I usually haul the dang battery back and forth anyway because the lot where the coach lives is rather open...
Thanks
John
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As to the fridge and what power....it should cool on 110 or gas, but the controls run via 12v. As to the lights, perhaps you may want to jump the battery leads together to simulate a battery being present, then try the lights. If the lights work, your battery cells are completely toasted (since it won't hold a charge, it's probably junk). If they don't, then the presence or absence of a 12v system would seem to not affect the outcome and would lead me to think the converter is gone too.
Since I can't get lights without the 12v system being a fully closed loop, I would try the jumper method first (maybe toss a 20 amp fuse in between two pieces of wire just in case....wire to fuse to wire....the use the fused bridge to try it).
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