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Old 06-25-2007, 11:56 AM   #1
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smalinowski
Electric working fine, Battery operating lights??????

We just purchased a used 2000 Sunline Solaris that is in perfect condition. We just returned from our second trip out in it. We typically have been hooking it up to our house electric when we are home to keep the refrigerator cold. When we returned yesterday we hooked up to the electric and noticed that our overhead lights were about half power. However, the electric was very clearly hooked up as we have night lights plugged into the outlets that work just fine. We actually watched as the battery power drained down and the lights got dimmer. Up until now, we have been running the lights off of the electric with no issue and the lights were very bright. How do I get the lights back running on electric instead of the battery. I am sure we have done something that we just need to fix.

Stacy
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Old 06-25-2007, 03:35 PM   #2
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Stacy,

Have you checked your converter box to make sure all brakers are on and all fuses are ok?

Hutch
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Old 06-25-2007, 08:02 PM   #3
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264SRinPA
sounds like your converter is going bad.
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Old 06-25-2007, 09:47 PM   #4
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smalinowski
I have checked my converter and all brakers and fuses are fine. How would I know if the entire converter was going bad? This is the first issue we have had like this. We camped all weekend with no issues.
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Old 06-25-2007, 10:25 PM   #5
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If I may quote the "RV Doctor", his advice follows. Unless you are comfortable working with electricity, I wouldn't attempt self troubleshooting. With that said, I quote:

"when troubleshooting any power converter, there are five basic preliminary steps: (1) Verify the proper incoming AC voltage - Be sure the incoming voltage falls between 103 and 130 volts AC. High and low voltage can have a damaging effect, not only on the converter, but other AC components as well. (2) Verify the correct polarity - Reversed polarity or an open hot or neutral wire somewhere in the 120-volt supply system can indeed be harmful to the converter. Always check the polarity and test the GFCI each time you enter a new campground. If it is not correct move to a new site or simply do not plug in the shoreline. Likewise, check the polarity of the DC conductors from the battery. Some components may be damaged if the battery is mis-wired. (3) Eliminate the battery as the culprit - Because of the close association, many times the converter is blamed for battery or other DC system-caused problems. (4) Make sure all electrical connections are clean, dry and tight - Many electrical problems are associated with loose wires and connections. It is a common occurrence because of the jostling most RVs endure during their lifetimes. (5) Analyze the symptoms closely and carefully - Take notes as you go through the process of checking. Follow a systematic approach by first considering the DC system in general. Next, look at the problem area in specifics. Then, consider the components in the sequence. And finally, accurately measure and record the following voltages: * The incoming AC line voltage * The battery voltage in an open circuit test * The output voltage with the converter without the battery in the system * The output voltage with the battery connected Should you need to call a service facility, having the above voltage information handy will provide a starting point to begin troubleshooting. Due to the level of sophistication in todayís power converters, if a problem proves to be interior to the converter, it is recommended that the converter be shipped off for repair. Some well-trained RV service facilities may offer internal converter repairs as a service, but most are probably not fully equipped to handle all possible scenarios. Many components are not field repairable, yet they can be repaired or replaced relatively inexpensively. (Some do have module boards that are easily replaced if necessary.)"
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