Dometic Troubleshooting

[underdog]

Hi, new owner of a 90 T205. Has a Dometic 2401 fridge. It's the one with what they call auto light I think. It works on AC but can't get gas to light. Says to turn control to gas and the light on the left should light up. No light and nothing seems to happen. Anyone able to steer me in the right direction? I do auto repair and have a multimeter just no clue as what to look for with this.

I did probe the 12v in and it reads 13.5 V. There is gas in the tanks since the stove lights.

Thanks, Jim

[underdog]

Correction, it's a RM 2501 with reignitor.

[WASA 1500]

when you turn selector to gas, and t-stat up to 3-4, do you get a popping sound / spark at burner?
or do you have a second button that pops as you push it in?

If no pop, you can light burner with a bbq lighter, as some one else holds in "button c". therocouple safety, must remove a cover over burner - right side bottom corner area - looking in from outside, vent door. check burner for rust / spiders, they are there!!!

Common to have dead gas ( air in the lines) good move for lighting stove.
make sure you level the frezer for operation on gas OR elec . run overnite to cool down.

lots of on-line manuals for this.

[underdog]

Thanks, Found BryantRV and they have manuals as well as trouble shooting advice. I just got it lit using the BBQ method. Really easy. It would be nice to have the reignitor feature. Passing semi trucks used to blow out my old camper fridge. But one thing for sure...I'll keep an aim&flame handy before I spend for a new fridge!

[WASA 1500]

If the wire , electrode is grounded the reignitor is "off" ( stand by mode)
it thinks flame is lite. 3/16 spark gap to a clean burner ( I use a allen wrench )

The reignitor gets 12 v dc thru the selector switch ( gas mode turns on this and opens gas valve ) to get to these parts you must pull the control "drawer"
If I recall, the main gas line must be removed , if you don't have enough slack.

NOTE USE TWO WRENCHES! the cast housing WILL break!!!!!
The burner has a "clamp" above burner, around flue pipe. pull tab on left and hinge it out, drop down off from cooling unit flue pipe. - see a parts break down, lots of stuff in there!
Be sure to use soapy water on any gas connections !!!
did she cool on the gas mode ?
Wayne

[underdog]

Thanks Wayne,

Yes it lit last night manualy. Went down this morning and it's ice cold. Strange thing is now it works perfectly. When I went to switch the gas off I noticed the light blink. I thought what the heck is up with that?? So I did the lighting procedure with the knob & button and it lit right back up. Not sure what I did...maybe the battery was low.

I will save your info in case it acts up in the future. I feel like I dodged a bullet!

Thanks again, Jim

[WASA 1500]

Great news!
A flake of rust that is common to fall from flue pipe and groungs out electrode,
or more likly, poor contacts in the switch, if your not on the gas selector knob squarly the valve will flow gas but the contact may not power reignitor!
You stated 13.5 vdc- thats good!

[underdog]

Well shortly after I posted that it was working, it quit again. I followed the procedure in the service manual and your tips Wayne. I think it's the reignitor module. I have 12.93V to it so the selector switch is working. Not sure why the voltage dropped as I'm plugged in to 110. I suspect the coach battery may be on the way out. In any case I assume 13V should operate the ignitor system? I disconected the electrode from the ignitor and have power in but no clicking as the manual says I should have. Relatively cheap...about 30 bucks shipped so I have one coming. No clue why it worked a couple times and now dead again. I'll post back the results.

[WASA 1500]

Jim,
10.5 Volt is min for ignitor. slight volt drop thru switch - ok.
What was used for your ground ? the ground wire for ignitor I hope!
Yes, no cliky no goody.
Wayne

[underdog]

Wayne, yes I probed to the ground wire for the ignitor. Strange but they had it and another ground wire stuck under the double spade ground terminal. I put a female spade connector on the two and pluged onto the unused ground terminal. I would think it should have been done that way at the factory. The 12v in wires were sort of dodgey on the ends so I trimed them back and reattached also. Wanted to be sure I wasn't dealing with some loose connection before I started buying parts.

But even then no clicky. I should have the new one any day now. I'm anxious to see if it fixes it.

[underdog]

Got the reignitor today and just installed it. Success!!! Kinda tricky getting the control tray back in. I found it easier to take out the two screws on the face panel which allows the knobs to come out some. Then once the tray was back in a little jiggling of the knobs and it's all back. I blew the flame out and it instantly relit as it should.

I really think this fridge issue may have had a factor in the dealer coming down so far on the price. I have $35 in the repair. They also stated the water heater but I had it lit and it doesn't leak so ???

Thanks for taking the time to post Wayne. Between you and reading the manual, it seemed so much simpler. I got a kick out of the listing for the shop manual refering to this as a "manual control model" Now the one in my old 1973 was manual. This one is slick as heck in comparision. I'm a happy camper today! THANK YOU!!

[WASA 1500]

Jim,
Glad it worked out for ya!

If you leave the burner on in transit it will re-light if she blows out.
Now, please remember it is on while you enter the gas station,
don't just turn off the bottle!
I added a 12 volt heating element for PROPER use in transit. IMHO

You can use the same switch in yours, add a relay and a 12 heater into the 2nd pocket of your cooling unit, and maybe larger wires, 16 amp draw on 12v.

[JohnB]

Underdog,

Thanks for reporting back. We have had several where the ignitor was weak to dead. You have up'ed the count.

John