Converter not converting.....

[Jim-Bev-2363]

I cannot get a reading at the charging side of our Magnetek, Model 3240 Comverter. There is no meter reading at the positive and negative lugs on the circuit board. I thought there might be another fuse in the circuit so traced the lines and found no hidden fuses. Also, even with a line fuse there should be potential at the positive and negative lugs in the converter, I think.

Battery is new. I tested old battery and it was toast so a new multi-use battery was installed. I know it isn't best for this use but it is what we have and should still power the lights if nothing else.

Another check I did was to unhook shore power and turn on 12V items in camper. Nothing works from the battery back to the coach. The jack does work.

Questions: Shouldn't the 12V house battery power the camper, even if the converter charger is bad?

Is there another fuse inside this model of converter?

If converter is really toast what is the best replacement? One that I don't have to shift a lot of wiring around to make things work.

I did look in the Files section without any luck so posted here.

TIA!

[mainah]

The breakers is on yes? But regardless the battery should power the lights. The jack is usually connected directly to the battery. I'm going to say there is a fuse inside of the case but if its toes up the lights should still light. The older charger/converters had two circuits one to charge the battery the other to run the lights and 12 volt stuff. There was a relay inside that disconnected the battery power when it was plugged in so it could charge the battery some times they burn the contacts and will not release so you get no power from the battery when you unplug. The best upgrade you can do to your camper it to replace the old converter/charger some allow you to just replace the guts others can be a little more complex. A good site is bestconverters.com and the guys there are pretty helpful and can tell you what you need.

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Yes, the jack and brake are on separate circuit.

I do hear the A/C hum from the converter and 12V circuits inside are powered on. When plugged into shore power no 12V reading at the charging lugs. Also, when unpluged the only 12V working is what is attatched straight to the battery.

Thanks for the bestconverters.com site. I'll check that out now.

[EMD_Driver]

Some converters need a battery, to work properly. If yours isn't seeing the battery, that may be the problem. Have you traced the 12v positive from the converter/fuse panel, all the way to the battery? If the battery is new, it should have 12.6+v. When we picked up our latest Sunline in February, we lost all 12v power. It turned out to be a 30AMP self-resetting breaker that was bad.

If you can trace the red positive wire from the battery to the converter, I'm sure you will find the short in the circuit.

[Jim-Bev-2363]

I found this online while searching.....



Since it is so late here I'll have to play with it some more tomorrow. I did notice a grounding connection at the frame that wasn't the best of condition so I'll clean that and run tests again.

[Gene]

Here are some thoughts based on my 2002 T2363.

I have the same converter, it doesn't put out anything untill it "sees" a battery. It took me an hour in the dark to discover that one. The battery should power the lights even if the converter is not working. Two things you could check. That converter has 2 30amp fuses to the left of the other fuses. Make sure they are good. In the front of the 2363, under the couch there is a fuse or thermal cutoff. It is just a small box with a wood cover and that is where the wires from the battery, converter, and pigtail from the tow vehicle all come together. That would be a prime spot to check but it aint easy to get to it!!!

With shore power disconnected you could try plugging into the tow vehicle (engine running) and see if the 12 volt lights work. That was the tick I tried that turned on my converter which then charged the dead battery.

Gene

edit - I see more info posted while I was still typing. !

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Thanks Gene, I will try that tomorrow.

This is a 91 2362 and the wires drop thru the floor right by the converter. They run from there outside under the camper to the battery. I'll try to get some pikchures tomorrow.

Now is reclinertime.

[Gene]

Oh dang, another difference, just when I thought all 2363s were almost alike. ...

[Bakediddy]

Originally Posted by Gene

In the front of the 2363, under the couch there is a fuse or thermal cutoff. It is just a small box with a wood cover and that is where the wires from the battery, converter, and pigtail from the tow vehicle all come together. That would be a prime spot to check but it aint easy to get to it!!!

I had this same problem, the 30 amp fuse in the little wooden box was blown... If you look underneath, the box should be right above where the wire from the battery goes inside the trailer...

[Jim-Bev-2363]

I'll get some pictures of how the wiring runs. This unit does not have the "little box" under the couch. The wiring from the battery box is run underneath the unit until it is under the converter and then it goes up into the camper.

I think I do have a wiring problem because I cannot get 12V inside the camper when unplugged from shore power. If the converter charger was blown I think I would still get 12V lights to work, but they don't. Crossing fingers that the rusty ground is the main problem.

Outside to take some pictures.

[Janalee]

Years ago we had a similar problem..cleaned the ground connection..it helped BUT we then changed it out to a new one and we were all fixed up.

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Here is a shot of the wiring at the battery box:


A fuse holder of which there are two. One for the converter line and one for the power jack:


Here is where other/newer 2363 units have the wires going up under the couch. This is only showing the wires under the unit, on the outside. The white/ground wire going to the ground connection to the frame is rusted and doesn't make good connection. The gas line pipe clamp ground seems to make connection OK but haven't put meter to it, yet:


Here is wiring running underneath camper along the gas line. Looking towards the back you can see where the wires rise into the camper:


Here is looking from the front door into the camper and the location of the converter:


Close up of converter showing wiring on righthand side turning down through floor:


Inside fuse panel:



Outside to check wiring continuity.

[Jim-Bev-2363]

I finally did some tests after I got through with honey-do items. I disconnected the positive wire from the converter positive connection and I fastened a wire, that I ran outside to use as a test lead, to that end of the positive wire. At the battery box I tested for continuity on the positive wire. I had continuity at the red wire coming from the converter, that is good. I checked the first fuse holder, that goes to the battery positive, and it was good going in but inside the corrosion had eaten the wires in two.

I have purchased new 30Amp holders, similar to what was there, to use until I can round up better parts. Installation to follow. That should fix the positive wire from the converter to the battery.

I was more surprised when I checked the ground side from the converter to the battery box. It was good. I'll still clean the connections for better connections and then coat them with liquid tape while I'm at it.

After I get good wiring from the battery to the converter, positive and negative, I'll be able to check the output of the charging side of the converter. Like the test chart I posted earlier said, with the 120V power turned off I'll measure the battery voltage. Then I'll turn the converter power on and retest battery voltage and I should see a increase, if not but a half a volt, if the charger is working correctly. If I do not get a increase in 12V readings with converter 120V turned on the converter is bad.

Gene, Sometimes getting the converter to "see" the battery ain't as easy as it sounds, LOL!



Now for a Florida nap.

Edited to add: I did check for 12V in the camper with the TV connected. All I had was running lights. No inside lights at all. Now for that nap.

[mainah]

Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363

I'll get some pictures of how the wiring runs. This unit does not have the "little box" under the couch. The wiring from the battery box is run underneath the unit until it is under the converter and then it goes up into the camper.

I think I do have a wiring problem because I cannot get 12V inside the camper when unplugged from shore power. If the converter charger was blown I think I would still get 12V lights to work, but they don't. Crossing fingers that the rusty ground is the main problem.

Outside to take some pictures.

All though the battery system is grounded to the frame the lighting does not relay on a frame ground you should have both a ground lug and a +12 volt lug in your fuse panel between the two you should have 12 volts. There should some where be an inline 30 amp fuse probably near the battery connection it's generally near the battery to protect the wiring from the battery to the converter. Dumb question if you had the battery out during the winter you didn't perhaps put it in backwards? That will instantly take the fuse out.

[Jim-Bev-2363]

No, first check was to check the fuse. I found the fuse holder at the battery box to be defective, not the fuse, and will replace it tomorrow, I hope. I did find out the 8Ga wire and fuses are not popular items at the automotive parts stores here.

I was thinking that I might solve some of the chances for open circuits if I solder connections instead of using the crimped connections. That and finding a weather proof box to place the fuse holders in can help this last another twenty plus years.

[Gene]

FIRST - I don't have the same converter ... brain freeze or something .. I have a Centurion pictured here:



Remember there are no stupid questions but I can give some stupid answers sometimes. If I keep doing things like that I will end up exiled to that other forum.

Great pictures Jim, I assumed the converter was the same and in the same place as mine. You converter is behind the door where my low point drains are. My converter is in the walkway between the bathroom door and the bedroom.



It is interesting to see the same model can have things in different locations in different years.

I am glad you found it was just the fuseholder, much cheaper than a converter. That certainly is an "interesting" configuration connected to the battery.

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Gene, This unit has the 110V breakers where you converter is located. My 110V and 12V are located apart from each other. My drain valves are located at the bottom of the cabinet next to the bed. The duct exhaust grille is on top of them. I have to move the duct to open the valves. It seems like this unit was a experimental or something. Nothing seems like others.

I do think I'll end up rewiring systems. I want a separate circuit for the battery charger, another for the jack and another for the breakaway switch. As it is I don't trust anything to work right.

I should have said what kind of converter I had but I ass-u-med everyone would know what I'm looking at, LOLOL!

[Gene]

The first post did say Magnetek, Model 3240.

I see what you mean about inline fuses, everything I could find was #12 wire leads.

I did see this fuse block that would take #8 wire



It is a Cooper Bussmann h25030-1cr fuse block

I see someone on Ebay has one for $5.

New Buss Fuseholder H25030-1CR E-1030 250V-30A K46 on eBay!

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Thanks for the fuse holder link. That is something I will need, eventually. Now I'm just trying to make things work with regular inline fuse holders.

It looks like I'll need three fuses close to the battery box. The fuse for the charging circuit. Another for the jack. Another for the breakaway switch. It would be nice to find a fuseblock with multiple fuses of at least four.

I have looked around and found that the converter charging circuit requires a 30Amp fuse, the jack circuit requires a 30Amp slow blow fuse, but I cannot find what size fuse is needed for the breakaway switch circuit.

[UPbuilder]

Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363

Thanks for the fuse holder link. That is something I will need, eventually. Now I'm just trying to make things work with regular inline fuse holders.

It looks like I'll need three fuses close to the battery box. The fuse for the charging circuit. Another for the jack. Another for the breakaway switch. It would be nice to find a fuseblock with multiple fuses of at least four.

I have looked around and found that the converter charging circuit requires a 30Amp fuse, the jack circuit requires a 30Amp slow blow fuse, but I cannot find what size fuse is needed for the breakaway switch circuit.

I found these 6 circuit fuse blocks on ebay. They have spade connectors though. Linky