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Old 08-23-2011, 11:20 PM   #1
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Changing Tire Questions

1. Uncouple trailer from tow vehicle?

2. If not uncoupled, unhook weight distribution bars?

3. What type of jack?

4. If using a short jack, what do you use to raise the jack?
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:17 AM   #2
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I use an 8 ton hydraulic. My trailer is low so a solid piece of lumber like at least 12" of 2x8 is good. I don't like to screw the extension out any further than necessary. For a higher trailer like yours double up on the 2x8. Always lift the frame, not the axle or spring seat and position close to the spring hanger--within 18" according to Sunline.

I don't think it matters much if your hitched or not, but anchor the trailer securely with chock blocks if unhitched. Definitely undo the wd bars or you'll be jacking the truck too.

Henry
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:21 PM   #3
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I agree with Henry and add one comment. If the trailer is on an even slight grade, you may not be able to chock the wheels on the side your lifting. If both wheels come off the ground it will move. Best to leave it hooked up to the TV in this case so it can't move. Also best to remove the sway and load leveling bars to avoid undue stress or resistance.
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 40_Acre_Mule View Post
1. Uncouple trailer from tow vehicle?
Like Paul, I prefer to leave the trailer hooked to the truck. Had to do it today on the side of the road as we had a flat on the TT for the first time in a long, long time.

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2. If not uncoupled, unhook weight distribution bars?
I don't, but it's your choice. I can't see any technical reason for it.

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3. What type of jack?
I prefer an 8 ton (or larger) bottle jack. They are extremely easy to use and small enough to carry about. The two ton ones are not particularly well built and don't have much lifting power.

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4. If using a short jack, what do you use to raise the jack?
I carry lots of 4x4 cribbing pieces cut to about 11" long. I also have a good selection of 2x6 and 2x10 pieces, each about a foot long or so. Makes it easy to build up one side when leveling, to provide extra stabilization on sloped campsites, and when necessary, build up under a jack as needed.

If I am going to work under the trailer with one or more wheels off the ground, I use the cribbing and/or jack stands be sure the trailer can't fall on me. I usually crib right up to the frame.
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:43 AM   #5
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Question Can someone 'splain this to me?

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Always lift the frame, not the axle or spring seat and position close to the spring hanger--within 18" according to Sunline.
Henry
Given: The weight of the trailer is carried by the tires. The reverse path of "support" or "force" is tire-to-wheel bearings-to-stub axle (bolted to axle)-to-spring pad-to-springs-to-shackles-to-frame, right?
So if the spring pads on the axles are taking the load of the frame (through the springs) to the axle, why can't you position a jack at that point?

Inquiring minds want to know,
Teach
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:03 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by awellis3 View Post
Given: The weight of the trailer is carried by the tires. The reverse path of "support" or "force" is tire-to-wheel bearings-to-stub axle (bolted to axle)-to-spring pad-to-springs-to-shackles-to-frame, right?
So if the spring pads on the axles are taking the load of the frame (through the springs) to the axle, why can't you position a jack at that point?

Inquiring minds want to know,
Teach
Good question, and one I don't think anyone really knows the real answer to.

I agree with your logic and have repeatedly jacked one wheel at the spring pad. Much shorter lift and a lot less effort overall.

I do know that Dexter cautions against jacking the axle tube as it could bend it.

Sunline had a drawing of the jack points in the manuals and it clearly specified jacking the frame either just forward or aft of of the spring shackle mounts.
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:32 PM   #7
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Regarding Dexter's warning: I always thought that was the legal dept., not the engineers, speaking. I can see bending an axle if one were to go "jack happy" and try to lift the axle too high. But lifting it just enough to mount a new tire couldn't cause any damage to the axle. We're only talking about an extra inch or two. And if that could cause damage, what about those ramps where you drive one wheel up on the platform and leave the other tandem wheel hanging. To me, that's mo' dangerous to the suspension than a 2" lift at the spring pad.
I've jacked my pop up's single axle by the pad with no ill effects and suspect, when the time comes, I will jack my Sunny's axle in the same manner.

Teach
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:52 PM   #8
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I'm only repeating what I've seen elsewhere. Lifting the frame in front of the leading tire does lift both tires off the ground on the 2499. Does that happen on the spring pads too? Mostly I'm working on brakes or bearings so lifting both is an advantage. On a single axle the spring is firmly anchored at both ends, but the middle ends on a tandem axle are "loose" at the equalizer. What does the equalizer do when you lift at the spring pad?

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Old 08-25-2011, 06:05 PM   #9
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I would not jack it up in the center of the axle tube you do run a risk of bending the axle that way. Directly under the spring pad or on the axle close to the spring pad should be fine. When I service the bearings etc. I jack mine up by the tank protector loops they are very strong.
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henryj View Post
I'm only repeating what I've seen elsewhere. Lifting the frame in front of the leading tire does lift both tires off the ground on the 2499. Does that happen on the spring pads too? Mostly I'm working on brakes or bearings so lifting both is an advantage. On a single axle the spring is firmly anchored at both ends, but the middle ends on a tandem axle are "loose" at the equalizer. What does the equalizer do when you lift at the spring pad?

Henry
I'm with you. If I were servicing brakes and bearings, I'd jack the frame in two places (fore and aft) and use jackstands. There you are in a controlled environment with all necessary tools.
Broken down on the side of the road, I'll opt for quick and easy - lift the pad of the affected wheel, change it out, and beat boogie.
I haven't jacked a tandem axle (knock on wood), but I'd assume only the jacked axle would clear the ground. Anybody with experience?

Teach
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Old 08-26-2011, 06:37 PM   #11
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I haven't jacked a tandem axle (knock on wood), but I'd assume only the jacked axle would clear the ground. Anybody with experience?

Teach
You are correct. When I do a tire, I get the jack right under the spring pad and axle. Only have to lift it an inch or two for the tire to clear. A few turns of the impact wrench and I am done.
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