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Old 08-04-2019, 06:56 AM   #1
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C-951 Sportster

Hey All from East TN lots of rain this year.
Suggestions for roof sealer? I want to make sure that’s done.
There is two metal skin tears. Not bad one on cab bulkhead about 4”. And one on driver side where cab over starts about 2”. How to repair without removing? Any topical applications?

Also the jacks all seem to be adequate, but the front driver side mount has loose bolts?! Don’t know if I can remove plate and install a bigger plate from edge to inner wall to reinforce ?

We like to add an AC to it, and the roof vent over the dinette appears to be the location, that hopefully is reinforced? Some pics I’ve seen show an AC there.

The cab over appears to have minimal issues, one possible leak evidence below passenger window. And driver side wall, small patch of mildew, mold on wall. So she leaked somewhere. No smell yet thankfully.

I haven’t fired up appliances yet. Previous owner said it’s been winterized. Due to non use since last year.

So get a soap/water spray bottle ready and check the propane connections before lighting anything.
just getting started!
Thanks
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Old 08-04-2019, 12:48 PM   #2
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Hi,

Your post has many questions. All which are good, but we will need some help understanding what you are up against.

Let's start with the roof. Any chance of posting some pics of the areas needing repair? and the roof in general as we can see some things needing attention that you may not. You mentioned tears and then sealing.

Seeing what you have helps to answer the how to fix it better. On the travel trailer metal roofs, they are seamed every so many feet. The seams do get sealed but it is not necessary to seal the entire open area if there is no holes in the metal. The truck camper mainly followed the way the travel trailer were built, but not in all cases.

All roof penetrations for vents, etc and the entire perimeter of the roof to the walls gets sealed. But that sealant is often different then the seams.

Seeing what a prior owner did helps to know what to prep the roof for first. Some have done it the way it is supposed to be for a camper roof, while others have tared the whole roof like a mobile home and some have done nothing and the old sealants are so bad they should be taken off first and new put on.

Pics go a long way in these kind of cases to help give you suggestions to fix 3 what you have.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-04-2019, 05:28 PM   #3
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Thanks John will do.
Finally lowered it down onto som pallets and was able to see roof . Omg looks like waves of an ocean . Someone must have crawled on it! And used coolseal around all openings!!!
I’ll try to upload pics, oh unable straight from phone asking for url so ap like drop box ?
I’ve plugged into house power, so far the lights work ��, I’ve turned the domtec fridge on by electric on selector and a quarter turn on thermostat. From what I’ve read it may take 8days to get cold!
There’s some other issues but one at a time.
Thanks for your input.
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Old 08-04-2019, 09:28 PM   #4
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Hi,


I'm following this post as I was thinking about getting one of these to replace my TT and I want to see what everyone has and like John B, I may be able to help with some of your fix up questions.


Thanks,
Steve
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Old 08-05-2019, 07:28 AM   #5
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Some pics of Sportster

Quote:
Originally Posted by sep View Post
Hi,
Thanks for the help

I'm following this post as I was thinking about getting one of these to replace my TT and I want to see what everyone has and like John B, I may be able to help with some of your fix up questions.


Thanks,
Steve
thanks for any help
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Old 08-06-2019, 05:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnSportster View Post
Thanks John will do.
Finally lowered it down onto som pallets and was able to see roof . Omg looks like waves of an ocean . Someone must have crawled on it! And used coolseal around all openings!!!
I’ll try to upload pics, oh unable straight from phone asking for url so ap like drop box ?
I’ve plugged into house power, so far the lights work ��, I’ve turned the domtec fridge on by electric on selector and a quarter turn on thermostat. From what I’ve read it may take 8days to get cold!
There’s some other issues but one at a time.
Thanks for your input.
On the fridge, the 8 days is a mixup. 8 hours is more the normal. But the 8 right. Ideally put an open cup of water in an old plastic container in the freezer. 8 hours later it should be frozen. Your not going to feel a lot of cold air rushing out. These RV fridges don't work that way.

On the roof, the one pic you posted shows what looks like someone already coated the whole roof in the past.

More pics of the whole roof, the roof vents with flanges and then along the side will help. We cannot see the waves of bending that you can.

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Old 08-06-2019, 05:45 PM   #7
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Thanks for the fridge info

Thanks for your info itís been two days not any hint of cool! Iíll try propane this weekend.

As for the roof in my effort to protect it Iíve tarped it and have removed two 1íx3í areas in the bed Walls that were soft.
The waves are the worst to the fight behind the air cowl and in front of it .
Iíve read your repair section and will have to order Dicor whichever is affordable. Something I can live with.

JohnB thanks again
And keep it between the ditches
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnSportster View Post
Thanks for your info itís been two days not any hint of cool! Iíll try propane this weekend.
Oh, 2 days and no cool. Is the burner stack in the back of the fridge getting warm?

The burner stack is the round tube (about 2 1/2 to 3" dia.) on the right side of this pic. The flexible conduit going to the stack is the 120 VAC electric heating element. The LP gas burner is under the stack. I'm assuming the camper is plugged into shore power? Did you check if the 120 VAC outlet on the left has any power to it?



If the burner stack is not getting warm after 2 days, that is problem one. The electric element is not working. These fridges create heat to have cold. Odd I know, but that is the way absorption fridges work. If the stack is warm and no cool inside the freezer or the fridge compartment, that is a problem and after 2 days you need to shut the thing down so it does not create a fire hazard. Heat in the boiler stack should be felt within the first hour of being turned on.

If the stack is getting warm and no cool, running it on LP gas will not fix the issue. Need to start round 2 of the trouble shooting. First tell us about the boiler stack temp. Hot or cold?

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-06-2019, 07:09 PM   #9
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Cold plug is live
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Old 08-06-2019, 07:37 PM   #10
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Is the burner stack warm or cold?
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Old 08-07-2019, 05:53 AM   #11
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Burner stack

JohnB
the stack was cold.
The plug was live 120v
The selector knob has like binding resistance as you go from OFF to Electric. There is some play after electric about a 3/8Ē of turn.
Thanks
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Old 08-07-2019, 11:28 AM   #12
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OK, got it. That is good news actually, it means your cooling coil may not be bad, you just have control issues which is easier to fix. And cheaper.

Are you handy with basic electricity and have a volt/ohm meter?
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Old 08-07-2019, 11:33 AM   #13
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Yes

Computer tech and jock of plenty master of none!
Iím going to order some sealant for the roof,
My is metal so is white coolseal elastomeric adequate?
Thanks again
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Old 08-07-2019, 12:57 PM   #14
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OK, use this pic and your voltmeter to test if 120 VAC is going to the electric element.



Your wiring diagram is the one called "120 VAC". Look in the top center of the pic.

Following the 120 VAC power from the electric cord, it goes to the switch, (the rotary switch you turn on) , then to a thermostat, then out to the 120 VAC electric element.

With the fridge turned on for electric, and plugged in to a live outlet, check to see is 120 VAC is being sent to the electric element on the side of the burner stack. Follow the 2 wires backwards from the element, one is AC neutral, the other hot 120 VAC and it goes to the T stat. Ideally you can get onto the wires at the T stat.

What you are trying to find out is, is 120 VAC being sent to the element? The switch may have issues, or the T stat. If power is being sent to the element, and it is not heating, then the element may have issues.

You can do an ohm check on the elemment if you unhook the 2 wires running to it and check resistance across the 2 leads. Also check between each wire and earth ground on the case etc. I have seen them short to the case before when they start dying.

On the roof, not sure what product you are buying from Dicor, they make a lot of products and what are you trying to correct specifically with it?

I do not recall you stating what area on the roof you wanted to fix. Or pics of the area in question. The roof vents, the seams etc. You might have to peel a bunch of old stuff off first. We can't tell without seeing some pic of the spot pr spots in question.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:09 PM   #15
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Fridge diagnostics

Thanks for the detail, Iíll poke around this weekend.
As for the roof I canít determine if itís a vent or other opening or seam or window thatís leaked in the overcab bed. Where ever itís coming from thereís moisture still being felt in both side walls bottom board by bed plywood, under side windows. My first thought was windows, they look to have the putty type of caulk. The roof upon quick inspection has some mobile home silver grey cool seal. Mostly edges and around vents, what appears to be a lot of cracks, and openings. So the seams at the edges and around vents is where Iíll concentrate sealant and / or caulk .
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Old 08-07-2019, 01:33 PM   #16
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OK lots to talk about here with your latest reply on leaks. Here is a start.

See here for a really good tool to help sort out leaks in a camper. You may have several leak sources, not just one Moisture Meters For Inspecting a Camper

On the windows, the windows have a flange that is putty tape sealed between the window flange and the siding. And that putty seal will fail over time. Leaks can for sure start around the window flange. To fix it permanently, you take out the window. fix and bad wood, then use the right type of butyl sealing tape and reseal the widow to the siding. Then go behind that with Dicor non leveling caulk or RV Proflex around the perimeter of the window over the top of the exposed new butyl sealant.

We have lot of pics/writeups on how to redo windows, corner moldings, roof hatches etc. Just ask for what you need and we can point you in that direction.

Pics of the roof area you are talking about sealing can really help. You may have disaster looking sealant or not so bad.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-07-2019, 08:55 PM   #17
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Hi John,


I was thinking the same thing. I can't see the "two metal skin tears" in the pictures posted. When I had the old Prowler, I scrapped off as much of the coating as I could and then used a coating that had fiberglass in it. It came out pretty well but it has been years and can't remember the name of it or if it is still made.


Steve
Attached Images
File Type: jpg newly coated woof.jpg (125.2 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg newly coated woof 2.jpg (137.8 KB, 2 views)
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