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View Poll Results: Dou you feel that a 27' trailer needs additional brakes?
Yes 18 94.74%
No 1 5.26%
Only in mountainous terrain. 0 0%
Voters: 19. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 08-18-2010, 07:33 PM   #1
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Brakes Optional

The person I bought this TT from says I really don't need additional braking system. He says he went to Texas hunting twice a year with no problems. What do the masses think about that?
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:45 PM   #2
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A 27' TT DOES need brakes. I am guessing the weight is over 4000 pounds. I think in most states it will be required by law. Something with an actual weight of less than 2000 pounds, maybe a bit more, would be ok without brakes
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:02 PM   #3
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That seller sounds like some RV salesmen who will say about anything to get a sale. Don't risk your own safety or that of others believing such a claim?

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Old 08-18-2010, 08:12 PM   #4
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I don't think Anybody on this site will say that you don't need brakes on a 27' TT.......

IMHO Any Travel Trailer even a 12ft. one should have BRAKES.
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:20 PM   #5
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed_wilson475 View Post
The person I bought this TT from says I really don't need additional braking system. He says he went to Texas hunting twice a year with no problems. What do the masses think about that?
Some states require trailer brakes on any trailer over 1,000#. Most of the others, require trailer brakes on any trailer over 3,000#. But there are a couple that don't require brakes until 4,000# or 4,500#. Texas is the 4,500# state.

http://www.towingworld.com/articles/TowingLaws.htm

My '99 is roughly 24' and weights about 4,300# dry. GVWR is 5,500#. Sunline put dual axle trailer brakes on it for a reason. Your 27' trailer has to be heavier than mine so even the 4,500# Texas requirement would apply. It has dual axle trailer brakes, too. Intentionally not using them and getting into an accident would almost certainly result in CRIMINAL action in addition to a massive civil law suit.

I can not imagine trying to stop a 1/2 ton pickup towing a 27' trailer without trailer brakes especially in an emergency situation.

In short, without knowing the seller, I would say he's full of hot air and has no clue what he is talking about. I would not want to share the highway with him under any circumstances.

No poll required... The answer is: It needs trailer brakes regardless of some of the state requirements.
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:32 PM   #7
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Most of the states I've checked on require trailer brakes on ALL wheels if the trailer weighs more than 3000 pounds. I've lived in FL and GA and they both have that requirement.

Our popup (GVWR of 3000 pounds) had 'em. Your 27-footer probably has 'em, too. You just need a controller.
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:44 AM   #8
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Massachusetts is listed as 10,000# !!!! That's crazy...but it does explain a lot.
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:22 AM   #9
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WOW! You guys are AWESOME! (Oh yeah, I need to buy some of that). I definately purchased the right TT. Thanks for your quick responses. Since this is all new to me, I will be contacting this forum constantly.

By the way:
Ed and Sue Wilson
Charleston, SC

If you've never been to Charleston, you don't know what you're missing.
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Old 08-19-2010, 10:41 AM   #10
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Where's the smiley throwing the BS flag when you need him???

I have a 28' there's no way in.... I would try to pull it without the brakes hooked up or a damn good weight distributing hitch (Equilizer), either!!
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:01 AM   #11
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I think that was an excellent question. Lots of first times get told things that could be dangerous, usually by salesmen that should know better.
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Old 08-19-2010, 11:56 AM   #12
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Quote:
I think that was an excellent question. Lots of first times get told things that could be dangerous, usually by salesmen that should know better.
I agree, excellent question, it's the original answer he was given that needs the BS flag.

I was with some friends when they were told the followings things by an RV "salesperson":

"You don't have to worry about tongue weight, you'll be using a weight distributing hitch"

"You don't need to pay attention to the gross weight, you'll won't haul that much"

"You won't have anything in your tanks when you travel"

I ran out of things to throw for flags.....

Yes, very dangerous indeed.
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:08 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by MACK C-85 View Post

I ran out of things to throw for flags.....
Add: "You'll never carry enough gear to reach the GVWR." spoken to me in front of several prospective customers in the middle of an RV show. My reply was: "Who are you trying to kid? Everyone carries lots of gear, and it weighs more than they think it does." I also asked him why he was giving unsafe advice at which point he walked out of the trailer.
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:59 PM   #14
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Too bad these lying salesmen (read idiots) can't be held legally responsible when they send people out on the road in an unsafe rig. Around here, when a drunk driver causes death or destruction to innocent people, the bar that served them is charged and tried too.

BTW, good for you Steve. I hope those prospective customers walked away from that salesman.
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Old 08-19-2010, 05:49 PM   #15
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BTW, good for you Steve. I hope those prospective customers walked away from that salesman.
He was quite alarmed that someone actually called him on his sales pitch. The people there were all ears, too!

He was trying to tell me that my duallie, rated to tow 12,400# would pull a fiver with a GVWR of 14.5K# and a dry weight of about 11K#. I kinda pointed out that tow vehicles and trailers should be at least matched with trailer GVWR's at or (preferably) below the TV's max trailer rating and certainly within GCWR. He responded that no one carries that much gear. I, who happen to drag an awful lot of "stuff" with me for our two week stays in the Adirondacks wasn't the least bit shy about disputing that bit of sales pitch.

On the other hand, I met a guy earlier this week while camping that had an RV salesman do the right thing for him. He owns a Tundra and while it is supposedly rated to pull around 11K, the salesman cautioned that a trailer with a dry weight up around 7-8K would not be a pleasant towing experience for a half ton pickup. My new friend ended up buying a slightly smaller trailer with a GVWR of around 8K and was very happy that the salesman was so honest. I told him that dealership is worth going back to again and again.
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:53 PM   #16
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I don't think our 28' trailer needs additional brakes. The ones that came on it work just fine.
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Old 08-19-2010, 08:33 PM   #17
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Well there is the law side of this then there is the personal safety side of this regardless if some state laws says it is OK.

The brakes on normal size camper tow vehicle and even a 1 ton truck are not rated to stop an additional 4,000 some pounds of trailer. See your owners manual, most state what sized trailer you can tow with no brakes and some are only a 1,000# regardless if the towing law in that state is 2,000#

The other is, brakes on a TT with and electric brake controller can be the 1 thing that might just save you from disaster if the trailer goes into a sway event. If the TT starts swaying, donít step on the truck brakes but apply the TT brakes and it can straighten out the swaying trailer if done early enough in the event. It is sort of like a heart attack. If you do the right things quickly it may save your life.

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Old 08-20-2010, 10:30 AM   #18
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Quote:
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The other is, brakes on a TT with and electric brake controller can be the 1 thing that might just save you from disaster if the trailer goes into a sway event. If the TT starts swaying, don’t step on the truck brakes but apply the TT brakes and it can straighten out the swaying trailer if done early enough in the event. It is sort of like a heart attack. If you do the right things quickly it may save your life.
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John,
Very good advice as you always give.

This is something else I do (I didn't read this or was not told this) when traveling slow under app.35mph ,stop & go traffic, red lights etc. I put the brake control on a lower setting (app.#20) so as to have smoother stops (less jolting). When I get on a highway and will be traveling app. 40 to 65mph I put the control on a higher setting (app.#30) so as to have the TT brakes be applied more forceful when needed.

Questions: Do you or anybody else do this ? Or see ANY reason not to do this ?

Thanks,
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Old 08-20-2010, 10:57 AM   #19
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John,
Very good advice as you always give.

This is something else I do (I didn't read this or was not told this) when traveling slow under app.35mph ,stop & go traffic, red lights etc. I put the brake control on a lower setting (app.#20) so as to have smoother stops (less jolting). When I get on a highway and will be traveling app. 40 to 65mph I put the control on a higher setting (app.#30) so as to have the TT brakes be applied more forceful when needed.

Questions: Do you or anybody else do this ? Or see ANY reason not to do this ?

Thanks,
My Prodigy has boost settings: off, B!, B2, and B3. On the highway, I use B3 for maximum stopping power to the TT. In stop and go traffic I shut the boost off to prevent jolting and locking up the brakes on even the most gentle of stops. That way I do not have to adjust the power setting for different travel conditions.
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Old 08-20-2010, 11:34 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvrque View Post
John,
Quote:
Originally Posted by luvrque View Post
Very good advice as you always give.

This is something else I do (I didn't read this or was not told this) when traveling slow under app.35mph ,stop & go traffic, red lights etc. I put the brake control on a lower setting (app.#20) so as to have smoother stops (less jolting). When I get on a highway and will be traveling app. 40 to 65mph I put the control on a higher setting (app.#30) so as to have the TT brakes be applied more forceful when needed.

Questions: Do you or anybody else do this ? Or see ANY reason not to do this ?

Thanks,


Hi Joe

What brand/type brake controller do you have?

When I was towing with my 02 Chevy Tahoe I had a Drawtite timed based controller. Had the PU then. The thing would drive me nuts as I did have to fiddle with the gain between highway and slow speeds, town and campground. Same as you said, more gain or the highway and less gain at low speeds. At the time I did not know a lot about brake controllers and spent $75 on the Drawtite when the $99 Priodgy was in the shelf next to it. The dealer told me they both work, they sell a lot of both, save the $25. Next time Iíll listen to my gutÖ. Not the salemenÖ

When I bought the 1st Sunline I used the Drawtite for a short time until I upgraded the truck to a 03 K2500 Suburban. For $100 at the time I bought and installed a Jordan Ultima proportional controller. WOW what a difference. That brand uses a cable off the brake pedal. More stomp means more TT braking real fast. Less stomp is less aggressive. Sort of like auto compensating boost feature by your foot. I never had to adjust that controller once the gain was set regardless of speed.

Now I have the F350 with the Ford integrated controller. And this one is even better then the Jordan. It is tied into the truck totally and ABS system as well so it knows what the truck is doing. It automatically varies the TT brake power in relation to truck speed. I make no adjustment at any speed once setup and the TV and TT are one to one with each other. In fact I cannot set it to even attempt to have the TT push the truck or the TT drag the truck. The only down side is my 2005 1st vintage will not lock the TT brakes via the manual lever until Iím above 15 MPH. They got so many complaints on it they changed that feature in March 2005 and forward. So for me doing a drag test gets more challenging but other then that I really like the controller.
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