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Old 03-21-2018, 02:53 PM   #1
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Bathroom Floor

We have a 1990 T1700 that has a portion of the Bathroom floor that is soft and needs to be replaced. This is located right behind the toilet and extends under the closet out to the siding including the floor of the storage compartment. I found the cause of the problem and it is a leaking water line under the bathroom sink. So my problem is 2 fold , a water leak and replacing the floor under the toilet and over the sewage storage tank. Any one know where I can find construction diagrams of the floor construction for this model ? Also can this water line be repaired without replacing the whole piping system with new pecks water lines. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-21-2018, 07:48 PM   #2
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Iíve never seen any blueprints. Youíll need to deconstruct it as you go. It will all come together.
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Old 03-22-2018, 10:11 AM   #3
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Hi Terry,

First, welcome to Sunline Owners Club!! Glad to have you with us.

We have had folks fix similar bathroom floor leaks before. I found this post with pics that still work in it which may help. Bathroom Floor Repair

The toilet flange most likely unscrews. This post has pics of a newer Sunlines however odds are high yours still unscrews too. Or it is a rubber push in fitting but I suspect not on this heavy use drain. Toilet to Black Tank Connection - Need help

The PEX if it is cracked can be repaired to be permanent. They have solid crimp connections with a brass fittings that are very small in OD however you have to buy the crimp tool. They have small crimp tools now that do not cost like the larger ones. Or they have Shark Bite brand fittings that does not require a special tool. But they are larger in outside diameter if room clearance is an issue.

You most likely have the older gray PEX. You just need to match the OD of the tubing to the new Shark bite fittings or even the crimp connections. Best is to take a small piece of tubing to the store and have the store folks match a union splice to match up with it. The big box stores have a lot of this, Lowe's, Home Depot and other good hardware stores. Plumbing supply stores for sure.

Detail drawings of your exact floor plan are not available that I am aware of. We may have a forum member who has repaired an older camper in the same vintage as yours, maybe different floor plan but with some pics which may help as a guide. Even the newer campers do not have any drawings but repair pics by others really help.

If you can, create a repair post when your doing the job as it would be very helpful to others in the future and yourself to ask questions on as you do the repair. Posting pics of the progress helps us see what you are up against to better explain the issues.

Hope this helps,

John
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Old 03-22-2018, 08:54 PM   #4
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Thanks John, I have started the repairs and seems like it is going to be more involved than anticipated. This is going to involve replacing the back corner studs and paneling as well as a rebuild of the bathroom clothes closet. I have a few pictures on my phone and will post them when I get time to transfer them to the computer.
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Old 03-22-2018, 09:23 PM   #5
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First set of pictures basically showing some demo and what I have to repair
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Old 03-22-2018, 11:09 PM   #6
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Hi Terry,

Yes, these water repairs do grow into a "project" that seems always more than expected.

As FYI, if you use your phone to take the pics, hold it upright (not rotated) then the pics will post on the forum not rotated. Something with holding the phone rotated embeds in the image a rotated command that forces the forum software during an upload to rotate the pic, sometimes upside down. By not rotating the phone, the pics post upright like taken.

When you get to the actual rebuilding phase, consider treating stained or wet wood that is dried out and sound with something to treat the wood to stop dry rot later on. I use a product called Rot Dr. CEPS CPES™-Wood based epoxy products to repair and resist wood rot.

It will stiffen up partly rotted wood paneling to oftentimes be usable again and it stops the dry rot even in the studs, joists etc. It will stink like crazy when being applied and a respirator has to be worn. They sell a good MoldEx brand respirator on the site for a fair price. The smell will completely go away in about 3 days.

Your doing great! Keep up the good work

John
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Old 03-23-2018, 03:40 PM   #7
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Well Demo down to the studs is almost done. Looks like the whole Corner is rotted as well as some of the rim boards and rafters.May have to put our planned weekend camping for the 14th of April on hold. More pics to come.
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Old 03-23-2018, 04:44 PM   #8
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My T1700 had rot in the same area but rain water. I ended up remaking the damaged frame work in pieces I made all of the angles etc on the concrete floor disassembled it and reassembled it inside of the camper it was not a lot of fun working through the compartment opening the damage was about 2'X4' The floor was insulated and all the water was trapped in the fiberglass and the plastic undercarriage. By the way 1/2" Sharkbits work fine on gray plastic.
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Old 03-23-2018, 04:58 PM   #9
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Repair pics

More pics to follow as work progresses
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Old 03-23-2018, 10:15 PM   #10
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The corner molding may have let water in too. Or higher up at the roof line molding. Water after it enters wants to head down by gravity. You may have several places of water entry.

A moisture meter can help tell you where wet is and where it is not wet by scanning the walls, floor and ceiling inside the camper. See here Moisture Meters For Inspecting a Camper

They have them on Amazon but they also sell them at Home Depot and Lowes. Both of these have the "wall" mode which can see approx 5/8 to 3/4" into the wall

Home Depot has a different model but is still a good meter
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...-MM8/205519129

https://www.lowes.com/pd/General-Too...Meter/50284821

This post may help a it has a lot of pictures of how the siding comes off and how to reseal the corners, windows, doors etc. This is a different floor plan and newer camper but the camper is made the same basic way as yours. A Winter Project - Roof Repair (Picture heavy)

Hope this helps.

John
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Old 03-24-2018, 12:34 AM   #11
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After Finding all the water damage so far , I think I am going to have to remove the siding to rebuild the rear of the camper. Advice on where
I can get the Calking tape to reseal the corners locally? I live in Eastern Centre county and Lerch RV and Happy Camper Sales are the two closest dealers. One in Milroy Pa. and one in Mill Hall Pa.
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Old 03-24-2018, 05:21 PM   #12
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The deeper I go the more I find.
More Demo pics
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File Type: jpg 20180324_181027[1].jpg (101.9 KB, 11 views)
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Old 03-25-2018, 09:11 PM   #13
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Anyone know how the drain disconnects from the shower pan?
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Old 03-25-2018, 11:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Bumgar View Post
After Finding all the water damage so far , I think I am going to have to remove the siding to rebuild the rear of the camper. Advice on where I can get the Calking tape to reseal the corners locally? I live in Eastern Centre county and Lerch RV and Happy Camper Sales are the two closest dealers. One in Milroy Pa. and one in Mill Hall Pa.
To seal the corners, there are 2 types of sealing tape.

What was in the camper from original is called putty tape. It is used by most RV manufactures who still build the aluminum sided campers. It has good and bad points.

Putty tape Good.
It is cheaper. About $5 to $7 a roll.
It is easier to trim excess off.

Putty tape bad.
After about 3 years of the camper living outside non stop, the putty tape can start to shrink. As it shrinks it releases from the siding or the molding. Cracks form. By year 5 to 7 the cracks get bigger and pending luck, good or bad, water can get in the camper through the cracks. You can have good luck and have cracks that are not in the direct path of water and water not get in. And you can have bad luck, where forced water will get in.
By year 10 and beyond the odds of a water infection of some level are very high if the camper is stored outside and no precautions to stop the leak are done.

The other type of sealing tape is called butyl sealing tape. They use these on rubber roofs as it does not affect the rubber and the sealing of butyl is orders of magnitude better then putty tape.

Butyl sealing tape good.
Good branded butyl takes many years to degrade. Some at 20 years is still good.
It is superior to putty tape for keeping a seal intact.
The skrining properties are very low.

The not so good about butyl.
It costs a little more. A roll may cost $6 to $9 a roll
Since it seals better, to trim off excess takes more time then putty tape.

Both tapes will attract dirt sticking to the exposed edge. This can be solved by applying Dicor non sag/non leveling caulk to the exposed edge if you want added protection.

I myself now only use good quality butyl sealing tape. I have the extra time it takes to trim the excess off. This may add 15 to 20 minutes more then using putty tape. In a private setting this time is worth spending to have a much more robust seal. It can be painful doing leak repairs, I will pay the price increase for the better product.

Ideally you can get 1/8" thick x 1" wide sealing tape. On the corners you more than likely have to use 2 strips side by side to cover the whole corner. The 1" wide is wide enough and does not have as high a waste as say 1 1/4" wide. Going 3/4" wide will work but is marginal to have enough excess to trim off.

You can generally tell the difference between putty tape and butyl by pulling it apart with your fingers at room temperature. Putty tape will snap in two after about 2 to 3 inches of pulling. Butyl tape will pull like taffy, 3 feet of stringers until it will break off is common.

If you plan to only keep the camper 3 years, putty tape will be OK. If you plan possible longer then that, consider the butyl.

I now buy my online by the case direct from the manufacture after I got burnt on getting bad quality butyl from an unknown manufacturer. Most times their is 300 ft in a case. I use Permatite 250H 250-H Butyl Tape | Permatite

Odds are high a full case is more than you may need. Local RV dealers have both putty tape and butyl tape. They most likely not have the brand I use but they may still have a good brand. If you tell them you are sealing corners, odds are high they will give you putty tape. Ask for which one you want. You can find good quality butyl at a roofing supply place. They use butyl on steel buildings to seal out water and they do not want leaks in a short time. That is an option to the RV dealers.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 03-25-2018, 11:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Bumgar View Post
Anyone know how the drain disconnects from the shower pan?
On mine, 2004 models, under the shower pan there is a nut on the drain connection. The upper metal shower drain flange seals with plumbers putty to the shower basin (or use butyl tape) and on the bottom of the shower basin is a nut which threads on the drain flange. Then the drain pipe screws to the drain flange.

On our T-310SR and our prior T-2499 there is an side access hole inside the camper to get to this drain connection and the pipe trap. On some floor plans our T-1950, an access door is under the camper under the drain area as there is no side access due to the floor plan. In this case you go up from the bottom if there is no inside access door.

This is what ours looks like. Have you looked under the shower basin?


Hope this helps

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Old 03-26-2018, 06:52 AM   #16
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John ,I have a side access panel but I can't Get to the drain, I wanted to take the shower pan out to repair the water damage behind it without removing any more siding. I removed one before that the flange un screwed from the inside of the shower pan , I was hoping this would be the same way. Well I guess more siding has to come off. I will keep you all updated. Just a side note since the framing is 1"x 2" on this camper, Lowes has this in stock for $1.44 a piece. Easier than buying 2 x 4 and ripping them down on a table saw.
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Old 03-26-2018, 10:41 PM   #17
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H'mm, Lowes has 1 x 2"? I will have to go and see if ours here locally does and how many knots are in them. This could be cheaper then ripping higher grade 2 x any size. I will hopefully be getting to repairing my T-1950 in the near future and I need a lot of 1 x 2's

Thanks for the tip. Bummer more siding has to come off.
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Old 03-26-2018, 10:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
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H'mm, Lowes has 1 x 2"? I will have to go and see if ours here locally does and how many knots are in them. This could be cheaper then ripping higher grade 2 x any size. I will hopefully be getting to repairing my T-1950 in the near future and I need a lot of 1 x 2's

Thanks for the tip. Bummer more siding has to come off.
IF you need a lot of 1 x 2 buy the contractor packs and then the price is $1.33 a piece
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Old 03-27-2018, 03:53 PM   #19
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I used 1x2s from Lowes on mine as well. If you look well enough, you can find some with few knots.
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Old 04-04-2018, 06:08 PM   #20
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Its been a while since my last update on the repairs to the Bathroom Floor and the water damage. The new framing and the roof rafter repairs have been completed. The water lines have been converted to PEX and the siding has been reinstalled. posting a few pictures of the progress.
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