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Old 04-11-2011, 02:03 PM   #1
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Rockinjwolf
axial fans

I had one of the fans inside of invertor growling at me so I purchased one like it online. When I hooked up the black and red wires to the new fan, it actually affected fan number one and would not turn. It seemed like they were fighting each other. The new one is 12v, physically the same size, about the same amperes but not exactly as the one that is still in camper. Any electronic people out there that can give me a pointer. I did try reversing red and black and it was worse. I kind of thought this would be an easy fix. Oh well, rv's are still better than boats.
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Old 04-11-2011, 04:39 PM   #2
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I think some of the 12V fans are polarity sensitive and you may have that backwards. Double check the voltage, power rupplied and switch wires to see if the new fan runs.

jim
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:36 PM   #3
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Thanks Jim. I did reverse the wires, no luck. The new fan is 12v dc, slightly dif. amps. Old one is 0.23a, new one is 0.48a. I don't know if the difference makes them non compatable, we are talking a quarter of an amp but if there are some electronic campers out there, I would love an idea. I thought of changing out both fans to see if that would work, and or just having one fan work on the inverter and hope it doesn't overheat. The latter is not my choice though. jeff
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Old 04-20-2011, 08:20 PM   #4
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Hi Jeff

Did you get your problem solved?

Depending on what the driver is for the fans, if it is a simple power transistor it might be maxed at current trying to run both new and old fans. If you have 2 old fans at 0.23 amps that is 0.46 amps total draw. Then if you put a 0.23 + 0.48 = 0.71 amps. If what ever is turning the power on and off is only rated in the 0.5 amp area you may be pulling down the voltage making both run slower.

Question, if you pull the plug on the one working old fan, does it drive the one new fan correct? That would help point to the amperage limiting issue.

If you are experimental enough and cannot find a new fan of the lower amperage, then there is the possibity to but a small DC PC type relay that you fire the relay with the original fan driver and then the new relay powers the 2 new fans at a higher amperage. If this sounds like something you want to take on, I'll see if all my old electronic catalogs can turn up something. Radio Shack use to have all this stuff but no more. Lucky if you can find a resistor in there even now a days.

Newark was one of the big names we use to use. I see they still exist. And Crydom, Potter and Brumfield makes these small DC relays/power switches. Omron is another name that makes PC mounted relays.

Crydom Distributor | Crydom Solid-State Panel-Mount Relays | Newark.com

Let me know, I'll dig some if this will help any.

John
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:52 PM   #5
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Hi John and thanks. I have not made any more headway on this project. I guess I will have to look into either a smaller amperage fan or what you had suggested. I have googled online the Centurion 3000 series inverters and it seems the early ones (like mine) were not that great. My inverter has already cooked a battery on me and yes the fans ran all the time, with or without a load on inverter.
Maybe you can suggest or anyone else reading this a good replacement for the factory unit. My Sunline is a 2000 so it is 11 years old.
Btw, my wife and I are packing our trailer as I write this to head out for the Easter weekend in Cape May, NJ for our first trip in 2011. We will be a group of around 14 friends, 15 if you count Jack Daniels. Thanks again for your help. Jeff
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Old 04-21-2011, 08:37 PM   #6
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Jeff

If your looking for a good convertor, see this one. Progressive Dynamics for RV and Marine electronics and lighting.

You can shop around on price once you find the model you want. I bought mine here BestConverter - Converters, Inverters, Electrical Supplies, Electronics

Look to get one with the charge wizard. It gives you 3 stage charging plus desulfate mode. They have some that slide into old convertors now. Gut the old and put a new one in. Some come with the power distribution panel some are just the converter. When I bought mine they did not have all those options so I took out the old converter power board, left the AC and all the DC fuses in place. Then hooked the new convertor up to the DC bus bar.

See this Sunline Article post in How To & FAQ forum. Zoom down to item 4. There are some of post links from forum members who converted their systems. There may be a few more in the repairs/mods section. I tried to group up all I could find when we where creating that new FAQ forum.
Sunline Articles - “How To” and DIY (Do It Yourself) Links

You will get really spoiled quick with the new convertors. Great performance, good battery conditioning, variable speed fans. The heat sink is so big I do not even know if my fans now ever turn on. I'm sure the do but I can't hear them.

In my case my old fans where shot and sounded like a cement mixer at 3:00AM That vintage convertor was sort of OK, it at least had float mode and normal charge. But no boost and no desulfate. As part of our bookdocking package we have a generator and a high output convertor. I have not yet made it to the solar setup.

Good luck and hope this helps

John
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:40 AM   #7
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John, you hit it right on the head. Thanks, I am not going to waste any more time or money on the factory converter when I can get a new modern, up to date one for a couple of hundred dollars. The links were very helpful. My talents are those of a building contractor, not an electrician but I do know what end of a screwdriver to hold so I am going to give it a shot after this weekends outing. Jeff
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Old 04-22-2011, 11:37 AM   #8
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Jeff

If you can do automotive 12 VDC wiring and have done a 120 VAC home plug or receptacle the camper is not much more then that.

The only heads up is what which wire comes off of where on the old converter. Take good close up pics. The pic memory works a lot better…. It has been a frequent error that some folks have accidently tied earthground to AC common and that will trip every GFI receptacle you ever plug into. Sunline used solid copper (romex) on the 120 volts AC in many cases. So there is a white AC common. They also used white, but braided copper on 12 DVC common which is common to frame ground and earth ground. Any one of those 12 VDC commons accidently getting mixed into the white AC commons is the problem. In the convertor box there should be a ground buss strip and an AC common bus strip. The two shall not touch…. Point: All white wires in a Sunline are not the same voltage source and at not always common to each other.

Good luck.

John


PS. Remember pictures. We like to see your handy work. It also helps the next fellow Sunliner when their convertor turns into a cement mixer
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