Anyone applied/used this roof coating?

[awellis3]

I'm still chafing at the idea of abandoning my 2653. I was thinking of trying this as a stop-gap measure to prevent further damage.
Liquid Roof, EPDM rubber coating for RV's, motorhomes and fifth wheels
Anyone done this as a DIY project?

Teach

[jim44646]

How much structural damage is there to the wood frame and floor? If it's wet and rotting stopping water intrusion isn't going to help much. The problem with the underbelly protective plastic sheeting is not only does it keep road water out it keeps leak water in. The wood can't get air to dry out and stays wet. Rotting wet wood is going to keep rotting. So is it worth putting $450 + labor into it?

[awellis3]

Originally Posted by jim44646

How much structural damage is there to the wood frame and floor? So is it worth putting $450 + labor into it?

Damage is limited to the roof trusses in the left, front corner (appx. 4 sq.ft.) and trusses, right rear. No damage to floor.
No, it's not worth it, but that's not what I asked.

Teach

[jim44646]

Originally Posted by awellis3

No, it's not worth it, but that's not what I asked.

Teach

just trying to help. Didn't need a snippy reply

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Teach, No, I haven't used that specific brand but I did use another brand. I followed the instructions to a T and the roof looked good and the coating looked to be weather tight. I did think the coating was not as flexible as the rubber material beneath it. I don't know if that would be a problem during the actual repair, making the rubber more prone to cracking.

Since I do not know how you will be going about your repair I would be concerned about being able to seal the roof after making repairs. Will you have to re-open the roof to do the rafter repair, or can you do it from inside? Can you ask this manufacturer about your problem and how to reseal future openings? Will other brands of sealers stick to this roof coating? Not thinking about the costs but how this material will combine with others.

Are you going to attempt the repair yourself or simply try to halt more damage? Perhaps a repairman could tell you the best way to stabilize damage until you can get repairs made. Sure is bad timing having to wait all Winter for better weather to work outside.

Good luck with the way you have to go and I feel you can repair if you can put some sweat equity in it to make it cost effective.

[Gene]

I remember there was a thread about this some time back where greater minds than mine discussed Liquid Roof. I will see if I can find it.

[Gene]

The thread I was thinking of was this one:
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...ale-13534.html

but here is a thread where JohnB has a link to a thread on RV.net with some good pictures:
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f71/roof-13404.html


Here is the Google custom search link that returned several link that I didn't look at:
Liquid Roof - Google Search

Maybe there is something there that will help. As I said, greater minds than mine have looked at this.

Gene

[roymack]

Has anyone used Pro Guard Coatings out of Denver Pa. ?

[awellis3]

Originally Posted by jim44646

just trying to help. Didn't need a snippy reply

T'weren't snippy - hence the smiley face.
Sorry,
Teach

[awellis3]

Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363

Are you going to attempt the repair yourself or simply try to halt more damage?

That's the idea. My Missus wants more interior space without going to a 30+ foot trailer so I need to use the 2653 until we find a replacement. Unfortunately, I'll have to do everything off of a ladder.
After watching those videos, I don't think it's something I want too do myself.
Thanks for all the help.

Teach

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Teach, The 2653 until you find a replacement is probably a good idea. Ladders suck. Hope you find a replacement real soon. Unhappy wives make for very long camping trips.

[OhhWell]

Teach,

I looked at your other thread relating to your new leak. I don't think I would go with the roof coating unless you are seeing alot of black rubber showing through. I haven't seen any pictures of the roof but if it is all white, It is most likely the water is comming in from a broken seal if it has been 3 years since resealing it.

If there is a spot or two on the roof itself that is compromised, you can just clean it and cover it with a strip of eternabond.

It's good to hear that you are looking for a newer trailer. The water that caused some damage to the rafters and wall studs ran down the wall studs and pooled in the floor because the membrane under the trailer doesn't let it go anywhere. The insulation sucks it up like a sponge then it continues to leech into the wood. I garuantee you have damage under the floor that you don't even know about.

I say that from unfortunate recent personal experience. The trailer we bought had a leaz in the rear left corner and it ran down the beam to the floor and even across cros beams to the other corner. Luckly, it is under the bed in the storage area so access was relatively painless but it was crazy how sopping wet it was under there. There was essentially no structural support in the entire bottom rear of the camper. I was suprised it didn't fall apart on the 100 mile ride home from buying it.

I say all that just to say don't spend much on it to keep it going. Just some bandages because even if you stop all leaks, there is rot all over and water underneath that is just going to keep eating away at it.

[jim44646]

When I went looking for another TT I purchased a moisture meter. When looking at TT's I would craw underneath with meter an check beams and cross members. You would be surprised how many wet ones I found. I still check mine occasionally.
I use a rolling scaffolding when working on recaulking roof

[awellis3]

Originally Posted by OhhWell

... don't spend much on it to keep it going. Just some bandages because even if you stop all leaks, there is rot all over and water underneath that is just going to keep eating away at it.

Yeah, I guess you're right. I reluctantly came to the same conclusion. IF the missus wanted to keep it, well, that'd be another story.
Thanks to all who chimed in. I guess I needed a shove.
Since Sunlines aren't made anymore and an Artic Fox or Nash is out of our price range, we are looking at used Keystone Outbacks. With their aluminum framing, fiberglass walls and sealed, heated underbellies, they look like a good alternative. We are looking for a 25Rss or 250 RS.

Teach

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by jim44646

When I went looking for another TT I purchased a moisture meter. When looking at TT's I would craw underneath with meter an check beams and cross members. You would be surprised how many wet ones I found. I still check mine occasionally.

Hi Jim,

Do you have a brand and model of this moisture meter? Sounds interesting.

John

[jim44646]

JohnB
The one I have is more a multi tool. I did buy mine at Harbor Freight but can't find it there now. I also use it on fire wood. I found it on Amazon.com

Sonin 50215 4-in-1 Stud, Moisture, Metal and Voltage Detector - Amazon.com

Sonin 4-in-1 Multi Function Detector

DETECTS MOISTURE, STUDS, VOLTAGE AND METAL

Moisture Detection
The Sonin 4-in-1 Multi Function Detector Measures moisture levels present in wood, drywall, carpets and more from 8% to 22%. Helps you find out if potentially damaging excess moisture is present. Locate and trace water leaks to prevent rot. Check surfaces before painting, wallpapering, laying floors and tile.

Stud Detection
The Sonin 4-in-1 Multi Function Detector Helps you easily locate and detect wood or metal studs, beams and joists up to 3/4" depth, for picture, mirror, shelves and cabinet hanging.

Voltage Detection
The Sonin 4-in-1 Multi Function Detector's Non contact voltage detection helps you trace and locate live AC wire behind walls, ceilings and floors up to 2" deep. Check wiring receptacles, switches and lighting.

Metal Detection
Detect and locate hidden metals, steel, and copper pipes, metal frames (including both ferrous and nonferrous) behind walls up to 2" deep.

The Sonin 4-in-1 Multi Function Detector features a fast, accurate and easy to read LED display with audible indicator. Microprocessor based instrument with automatic calibration to ensure accuracy.

Low battery warning.

Instruction manual enclosed.

Requires on 9 volt battery (not included).

Size: 6-1/2" x 2-3/8" x 1".

One year warranty.

[JohnB]

Thanks Jim. Learn something new every day here on SOC!!!

Now I just have to figure out what % of moisture is normal and what is bad....

[jim44646]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Thanks Jim. Learn something new every day here on SOC!!!

Now I just have to figure out what % of moisture is normal and what is bad....

From my experience with this meter Normal kiln dried wood, indoors, shows no lights, dry. Rotting wood pegs the lights and is soft and mushy. I suspected a bad seal on hatch door cause I found a damp rag inside. I checked wood with meter It was reading about 16% but wood was still good . Repaired seal and wood dried back to no lights, below 8%. When I check wood frame and cross members I don't get any reading, no lights.
A few trailers I check had over 22% wetness in corners but wood was solid. others mush.
The only problem when checking your pin pricking underbelly material with the probes. I put Gorilla tape on those areas but I use same areas to repeat check.
So if you get any readings at all you have water.
Meter is so sensitive just putting probes against dry skin will peg meter.
hope this helps

Jim

[awellis3]

Thanks, Jim. I just ordered one to tote with me while I look at used trailers this winter.

Teach

[jim44646]

Interesting article on moisture in wood and fungal growth.

Interpretation Of Moisture Test Results