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Old 04-14-2007, 09:34 PM   #1
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Anode Rod install, Yes or No?

New 2007 t-2363 with 6 gallon atwood dsi water heater.

Drain plug leaks just a little bit.

At first I was just going to replace the plug with a anode rod.

I starting reading post saying the h20 tank in the atwood heater is not steel and does not require an anode rod.

Also saw a post that someone put a rod in a heater and since both the heater threads and rod were aluminum, the threads kinda fused together and there was not way to remove the rod.

I just sent email to atwood to find out what the factory says.

What is the standard for the other Sunline users here?

Mike
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Old 04-16-2007, 12:41 PM   #2
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Hi Mike,

I personally haven't used one, but my parents used something similar, but with a totally different function. In their last coach, a 2000 Tioga 31W, the WH was right outside the door and would exhaust on anyone sitting in a chair under the awning. This got really annoying, not to mention the LP drained fast (it was an LP only heater), so my dad installed a "lightning rod" in place of the drain plug, so it would heat electronically:



There is also a fitting available at a hardware store that will fit in the threads of the hole that replaces the drain plug. It has a valve on it and can be opened or closed easily, and then covered with a cap. Also, it allows the tank to drain easier and flow smoother.

Jon
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Old 04-16-2007, 12:48 PM   #3
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Hi Mike,

What I've done with all our Sunlines is I've removed the plastic drain and replaced it with a brass drain valve that I picked up at Home Depot.

It's something similar to this http://www.go-rv.com/coast/do/catalo...64&pageNum=282
See item # 66395 at the bottom of the page.

Now when I want to drain the hot water tank I just have to turn the value and release the pressure. It works great. Our pervious Sunline we had for 7 years and never a problem with the HW Tank.

I would be curious to hear what Attwood has to say.

Hutch
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Old 04-16-2007, 12:56 PM   #4
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Hutch,

That's similar to what I had, but not exact. It's hard to describe, but the valve was a quarter-turn valve mounted on the side. I don't know much about it because the previous owner installed it. I would have kept it when I sold it, but I couldn't find a good plastic drain plug around to put in its place. I'll look for a pic of the WH, if I have one.

Jon
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9467.8 (as of 5/26/19)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-16-2007, 02:27 PM   #5
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OK, here's what I have. The first pic is with the dust cap installed and the second is with it off. IMHO, the cap is not really need, but it does keep dust and dirt out.





Jon
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1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-16-2007, 03:07 PM   #6
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Jon:

Does that valve accept a garden hose?? It sure would be nice to have a short piece of garden hose to keep the water out of the works of the heater. Our T-276 has some pipes and electronics along the bottom pan that get soaked when you pull the plug. I would hope they are designed for it, but I would feel better being able to drain the water away from the side of the trailer.

If anyone finds out where the valve can be bought, please post the info. I think it would be a great mod to make,

Thanks

MACK
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:16 PM   #7
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Atwood is going to tell you not to mix metals, some type of chemical reaction can occur. I am attaching a link to a modification that will allow you to delete the plug, and have a drain. This is on my "to Do" list.

Kitty

http://travel.webshots.com/photo/224...62324395yrOICD
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Old 04-16-2007, 05:30 PM   #8
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Mack,

I believe I figured out that it could accept a garden hose, but I used that trailer so infrequently that I never bothered. I agree, it would be a good idea.

Jon
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1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-16-2007, 09:25 PM   #9
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Atwood did respond to my email today and yes they said an anode rod is not needed. Their response is below

I guess I will have to remove the drain plug and try some teflon paste on it.

Did I see somewhere the drain plug is plastic?

mike

"Anode rods are unnecessary in Atwood water heaters.
Even though manufacturers of those devices claim they are made for our water
heaters, we do not advise using them.

"The Atwood water heater tank is constructed of a core of high strength
aluminum. The interior of the tank consists of a 15% thickness of type 7072
aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the
rolling process.
This material protects the tank from the affects of heavy metals and salts
found in waters throughout the country. It is anodic to these heavy metals
and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined tank except it will last
much longer."

Also, if an anode rod is used, many times the metal that used for the
threads is incompatible with the aluminum and differential metal corrosion
occurs. The anode rod then becomes frozen in place and is difficult, if not
impossible to remove.

Anode rods are only necessary in glass lined tanks."
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Old 04-16-2007, 09:41 PM   #10
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Hi Mike,

The drain plugs are made of a very soft plastic and strip out very easily. You could try using teflon tape, but it would only last for one, maybe two more times before it starts to leak even worse. Your best bet is to replace the plug, which is very cheap (<$3) at a RV dealer.

Jon
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1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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Old 04-23-2007, 10:10 PM   #11
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Hi folks

Been out camping and just picked this up, but here is how I solved the problem.

I screwed a potable water nylon type fitting in the tank to not corrode along with teflon tape, then went with sanitary hose up to a brass boiler drain valve.

I drain the HW heater after every trip and compressed air blow out.

I also unscrew the whole thing each spring to stick the garden hose flushing wand up in there to get out any partilces that do not come out under normal draining.


And stowed ready to travel
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Old 04-24-2007, 05:17 AM   #12
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John B,
Now you've done it, I'll be adding a piece of hose to my new drain plug as soon as I get a chance to get the parts from Lowes. I am replacing the plastic drain plug with a compatable fitting and shutoff BUT, now I'll be adding the hose to it also so the water drains out of the compartment. I also noticed your hose to the pop-off valve, so I'll be doing that too. Both great ideas, but darn, ya made a tad bit more work for me.

I also made myself some more work, as while I was in TN for spring break, the WH was empty and the electric switch got turned on for about 20 - 25 minutes, and yep you guessed it, burnt out the element, so will soon be learning how hard it will be to get in the corner, under the sofa trying to get to the back of the heater to change that element, OH STUPID ME

Kitty
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Old 05-05-2007, 03:55 PM   #13
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Hey John B,

OK, I went to Lowes today to purchase a screw in fitting compatable with the aluminum WH tank, I found some compatable size BUT, they said they were for "COLD WATER ONLY"

What did you use to screw into the WH tank to attach the drain hose & shut-off valve to?

If I'm working on the WH, I might as well get all related projects finished at one time.

Kitty
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Old 05-07-2007, 10:13 PM   #14
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Kitty

I'll have to go look and report back. They do make HOT plastics, just I do not have it at my finger tips

Actually, I believe the original Atwood plug may have been a nylon type material. It was real soft and would cross thread in a heart beat. They do make nylons that work in the 212F area and are rated properly.

Let me look to see if I have a spare in the original bag. I'll check and report back.

Your looking for a male 1/2" NPT adapter with hose barb.

John
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:20 PM   #15
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Kitty

Here you go. Here is a pic of the ones I bought. Like I thought, they are Nylon.

The plug in the middle of the pic is the old one I took out of the Atwood HW heater.


Now where to get them.

2 places.

Online: USPlastics That link should take you right to the Nylon fitting page and lists the temperature ratings and FDA ratings. I have not bought from these people, but they have a lot of stuff….

You can also find them similar at Tractor Supply Stores I linked you to the store locator. VA has quite a few of them.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-09-2007, 09:22 PM   #16
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Hey JohnB,

Thanks for taking the time to research the fitting info. I went to the "local" home-grown hardware store. Told them what I wanted to do, and they got me fixed up? Sold me "QUEST", a screw in fitting with a threaded end to screw on a shutoff valve to and then an adapter to attach a hose to. Haven't installed it all yet, might have to "tweek" a few things. Will keep you posted (with pics). Also no new progress on the WH drip pan. (I want to do this incase of a leak) and no further progress yet on the sofa renovation.

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