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Old 07-20-2010, 08:29 AM   #1
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2753 Front Window Reseal

I'm about to undertake the resealing of the front window (facing tow vehicle) on our 2005 Sunline 2753. I'm hoping for any advice or hints from others who have done this. For one thing, I'm assuming that the hinged cover attached to the window comes out as one piece with the window? Or do you have to remove it first? There will only be two of us, is that front window assembly too heavy for one guy to hold after the other pushes it out from the inside?

Anyway, thanks in advance for any help or advice.

Bart
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Old 07-20-2010, 09:20 AM   #2
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DON'T listen to that guy in RV.Net, you don't use "any type of CAULK to re-seal your window. You use BUTYL Tape. Gary re-did the one on our T-320 SR and it wasn't that hard.

You will need a 2nd person, but not a lot of muscle.

He did have to remove the stone guard. Then remove the screws from the inside of the window (this allows the inner trim ring to be seperated from the outter window frame), then the outside person can pull the window away from the trailer, it will be sorta vacuum stuck due to the buytl tape so.

Once removed, clean ALL areas thoroughly, and re-apply NEW butyl tape. If you have aluminum siding you will have to put a double layer of butyl tape in the "valleys" of the siding so that you get a good seal. If you have fiberglass siding, one layer of butyl tape will work fine.

Then re-install

I'm sure the "guys" will be along shortly to give you better directions, and Gary or someone might even have some photos of this process.

Kitty
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:21 AM   #3
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Thanks Kitty. That information is very helpful. In looking at my stone guard, it seems the door is attached by sliding it in a tube (like an awning) with a set screw at each end. Is that how Gary removed yours? Then it looks like the tube bracket is folded over the window frame. Oh well, I'm sure we'll figure something out.

Thanks again,
Bart
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Old 07-21-2010, 11:53 AM   #4
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Hi Bart

1st off Weclome back to Sunline Owners Club. Glad to have you with us. And by your join date you where one of the 1st members of SOC. have not heard from you in some time. Good to hear from you.

Soon I will being doing what you are asking about. The front window has a somewhat different environment then the rest of the windows. If you tow a lot and end up in the rain, water is driven into the front of the camper and when water runs off the roof, even if the camper is parked, it runs right over the front window. I have looked at mine and I have a few too many putty tape cracks in the caulking for my liking so I will replace the caulking.

Kitty described how these windows come out, I have a pic at home I will post tonight however the inside metal flange with all the screws in it is what clamps the window in place. Once it is off the only thing left holding it in is the caulking that is stuck to the window flange.

I will elaborate some on Kitty comments on Butyl sealing tape. What you have in there now is putty sealing tape. They are different animals. Butyl is used on the roof of the camper as it works with the EPDM rubber roofing and it is also more waterproof over time as it does not crack like putty tape does. And it costs more as it is better material. Cost I’m talking about is maybe only $2 to $3 a roll. Not a lot when you considering the damage that can come from a water leak.

And then there is the staggering application that Kitty was talking about. on the aluminum siding. See here on how I did it on my slide. Yes I wasted some material from the excess, but I know it is sealed and I was not worrying about the $1 to $2 of lost material for a better repair.

First see here how putty tape seals, this is on a slide corner not on a front window.




You can see dirt on the white aluminum siding all the way to the inside edge of the corner. Well the dirt gets in there because the putty tape released from the siding creating a potential path for water to get it if water was being driven in at that angle.

When I replaced it I used butyl sealing tape and the highest quality I could get. I cut small strips to go in the corrugations to fill them.




Here is a cargo door prepped too.


Then you put the butyl tape on the flange that is all cleaned up






The cargo door. Again similar to your window.


Then when you put it in place and tighten the screws down it ozzes out. Then use a plastic scraper and trim it. Heads up: Make sure you center the window in the opening so you have close to equal flange all the way around to seal to the side of the camper. If not the winodw will be at the bottom of the opening, have a great seal on the bottom and the top will be short of sealing surface.

Then score it




Now trim


And it comes out like this


After a few hot days it will ozz some more from heat and compression. Just trim it off.

The butyl will last longer and not crack like putty tape. However it does come with one negative attribute that putty tape is a little more forgiving on. The butyl is sticker which is part of why it works as good as it does. The exposed edge will collect some dirt. Now the putty tape does collect dirt too and it looks black over time from mold and dirt but you will notice the butyl will have small specs of dirt stuck in it after a few tows down the road. You can either live with it or apply with your finger some Dicor “non” leveling caulk over it. Using masking tape to mast the camper about 1/8" away before applying the caulk to help keep the mess down. The Dicor will be white when cured and stays flexible and you can wash it and stuff does not stick to it like putty tape or butyl. And you can remove if the day every comes.

I will caution to not use a silicone based caulk. It will work for about 1 year then start peeling off and worst the silicone is stuck to the surface making it extremely hard to use other better sealants over that area. They no longer stick. Silicone has it's place, this is just not one of them.

Hope this helps and good luck. Pop a few pics if you get a chance.

John
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Old 07-21-2010, 12:55 PM   #5
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Wow John, thanks so much for the pictures and explaination. I think that I was picturing the whole process wrong. The butyl tape goes around the window opening and on the window lip (similar to your cargo door), correct? I was thinking that you put it on the space between the outside wall and the inside wall. I went to Jim Donny's RV today and ordered the butyl tape, they only had black in stock. I'll pick up the gray tomorrow. He explained the difference between butyl and the putty stuff. I hope to tackle the project next week.

We bought our 2753 new in September 2004, after the one we purchased in March was crushed by a huge tree in our yard. I joined the SOC when I found out Sunline was going out of business. I check the forum often but don't post that much. We camp mostly in State Parks and have towed our Sunline up and down the East Coast from Maryland to the Florida Keys. Other than replacing tires, we've never had a problem. This year I noticed a very slight leak at the window when towing in the rain or when we wash the trailer.

Thanks again for the pictures and advice. I'll let you know how the project comes out.

Bart
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Old 07-21-2010, 09:32 PM   #6
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Hi Bart

Yes that is correct, you apply the butyl tape to the window flange out in the open just like my cargo door is showing. And I suggest to put small strips in the valleys of the aluminum siding for added protection. Then when the window is set the sealing tape on the window flange contacts the TT.

Here are those pics I was referring to I had at home to give you an idea of the interior flange that holds the window in and what it looks like behind it.

This is of a side window but the front is held in the same.

The square head screws hold a flange that holds the window frame in. Take them out.


Then you end up with a white metal flange in your hand.


And here is what it looks like looking in the air gap between window and the wooden frame. You can see the gray putty tape thru this gap. And I’m sure on yours you may be able to see daylight outside or witness marks in the putty when you pull the window on how the water got in. And as you can see, you need to get the window centered in the opening to have equal sealing on the outside flange. If you are totally skewed to one side a corner can almost miss touching the siding.


Your towing in the rain and water coming in confirms my story… Your camper and mine as very close in age, mine a little older.

Gee a tree fell on your camper….. ouch. Glad you where able to get a new one when you could.

We like to hear about camping adventures from time to time so post away. We too are State Park Campers but venture out to privatge CG's as well from time to time. Hope to be National Park Campers too and not soon enough....

Hope this helps

John
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