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Old 12-05-2011, 10:52 AM   #1
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Khrtl
2005 T-1950 Front Window Leak

Good Afternoon...before I call the "big" guys, does anyone have experience with remove/reseal/replace the fron window on the 2005 T-1950.
It appears to be leaking in rains...dripping from and inside the windo ledge onto the agled paneling just above the forward floor. Thanks!
David and Kathy
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:32 PM   #2
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We also had a front window leak, in our T-320SR.. I posted about it HERE

Maybe my issue could help you out?
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:38 PM   #3
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Hi David

I have not done the front window yet, will this coming springs as it is due, but I have done doors, windows and cargo holes. They all follow the same guidelines to remove and reseal.

The one difference with the front window I have seen is they added caulk to the glass area in the bottom corners just under the rock guard on the outside. Seems those corners where the glass meets the metal frame have had leaks. I think it is HenryJ here has a pic if it even.

For the window remove, reseal and install it goes like this. I have mixed pics to show my thoughts so sorry if this jumps around but like I said, a door, a cargo hole or a window uses the same concepts to reseal. The differences is how the screws hold the unit to the camper.

Remove the inside metal flange. It has all those square bit screws around the inside. When you take out the last few screws have some one outside to make sure the window does not fall out. The flange is all the holds it in. Now it may be stuck in the putty tape still but it may not be.

The screws look like this


The flange looks like this from the back side when it is off.


Here it is on totally out


This is what the window will look like once you remove that frame. You can see right to the outside. That gray color is old putty tape on the outside side of the camper


If the window is stuck in, push from the inside on the outer frame pushing out. work one corner out first then work it around. Make sure some one is outside to hold it. Do not push on the glass itself. If you have to use a screw driver to push, do it on the metal frame where the screws screw in the frame. That area gets covered with the metal flange you just took off and if you scratch the paint in that area you will not see it in that spot. Once the window is out, clean off all the old putty tape from the side of the window flange and around the side of the camper. Using a plastic scraper on the camper siding helps prevent scratches. If you are doing this in the winter/cold, warm the putty tape up with a hair dryer, it works a lot easier then.

Once the window is out and cleaned up, check the wood all around the window that it is OK and no wetness etc. Deal with that as needed.

The apply new fresh butyl sealing tape to the metal flange of the window. What was on the camper was putty tape. The butyl costs a little more but it lasts longer and does not crack up like putty tape does. It also has 1 down side as it will attack dirt more then the putty tape. But that can be cured by using some Dicor non leveling caulk over it just enough to cover the exposed caulk if you want to.

The sun was so bright out it's hard to see here the butyl sealing tape.




See here on this slide flange




And cargo hole door


In areas of the siding corrugation, I add extra on the camper to make sure all the valleys get 100% sealed. Looks like this.


And here on the cargo door


Then place your window in the middle of the hole and press in. You can have someone inside looking at the space around the hole so you can see the air gap is even. You do not want it all the way on the bottom as then the corners on top may be close to missing covering the camper hole. Put the metal flange on inside and put screws in the corners and middle areas for starters. Do not draw them tight until you get all of them close and even. Then start filling in screws next to them working your way around in sort of a torque pattern to not twist the frame. Once all the screws are in go back and check all for tightness.

Outside the excess sealing tape will ozz out. Looks like this


Using a plastic scraper, trim it off. I find if you 1st score it then scrape it off, it works better.






My scraper happens to be a house scraper for dishes. It works great for this. Just once you use it, it is now the camper sealing tape scraper...

On a few hot days the sealing tap may ooz some more, just trim it if it get's to bad hanging out.

Once the ozzing has stopped, if you want to you can add some Dicor non leveling caulk around the outside to cover the sealing tape. Using masking tape and a real fine bead helps not make a mess. If you are terrible at caulking, well practice on something else first...

That is pretty much it. If you want more pics of the process see this post redoing and entry door. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...ics-11717.html

Hope this helps and good luck

John
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