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Old 05-01-2016, 10:55 AM   #1
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2002 sunline t2553 fan on ac not working

We just bought this sunline camper and the ac fan will not come on. if you set the thermostat for ac the compressor will kick on for a couple of minutes and then shut off. I am assuming this is do to the fact that the fan is not coming on. Any ideas on what to look for would be great. AC units are greek to me. I can run tests with my multi meter but need to know what i need to check.
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Old 05-01-2016, 07:01 PM   #2
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What you are describing "sounds" like the fan motor "might" be frozen in place. If this is what has happened, this occurs to Dometic units from time to time. Over the winter the fan motor armature gets very cold like all the rest of the steel on the camper. Then come one warm day and the metal sweats from condensation. That condensation can cause a corrosion reaction between the armature and the stator of the motor.

It looks like this






This happened to T2499 Sunline stored inside my building. The T310SR living outside during the same winter had no issues as that camper warmed up slow naturally with the sun. The camper in the building was insulated to be more cold and the moisture was higher inside the building. By early afternoon it had warmed fast enough inside the building everything was sweating.

This may or may not be your case but is something easy to check. In my case mine froze hard... I had a heck of a time even getting the motor apart. But... others who had this issue was able to break free the fan up on the roof as it did not freeze in place as hard and once free, the fan would start normally.

You can try this by taking the plastic fan shroud off and spinning the fan motor by hand. If it will spin freely, then you have another issue and we can dig into that. But if it does not spin, you might get lucky by try to break free the shaft to get the motor to spin.

The fan blade is plastic so do not be too abusive to it. If you have a strap wrench, the binding cloth type, that on the shaft may be able to break it free. Or wrap the shaft with heavy leather of some kind use water pump pliers. Do not use pliers or wrench with teeth direct on the shaft. Getting the motor apart will be more complex if it comes to that.

Heads up, your rubber roof is not a walk on roof directly. You need to lay a trap, carpet or something on the roof in the area you are working tp protect from abrasion. Then use some pieces of 3/8" to 1/2" plywood about 24" wide x 48 long and span the 16" rafters to spread your load out and span the gap between the rafters. If you do not do this, you can go right through the roof. See here how I do this





Here is the cover off, yours will look similar, The fan will be out on the open behind the coil.


If that does not do it, then report back and we need to start to use that multi meter you have and trouble shoot further. Since the compressor runs, then the T stat and part of the control board is working, just the fan is not.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 05-08-2016, 03:57 PM   #3
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john,
sorry for the delay getting back but i am on the road all week usually. the fan moves freely. a friend of mine suggested the start capacitor on the fan may have gone bad but i dont know where it is. do you have any drawings of this unit that would show the location of the start capacitor.
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Old 05-09-2016, 11:57 AM   #4
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Yes, I have pics and the wiring diagram. Will post later tonight. If you have an older analog meter you can test the start capacitor to see if it is any good. Will post how to do that later.

The good news is, the fan is not froze up. This may be easier. To replace the fan you have to gut the entire top unit.
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Old 05-09-2016, 09:47 PM   #5
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See if this helps. Since the motor is not froze up, good, then what's next?

Yes the fan start capacitor may be the issue but the control board may be the issue as well.

You can test the control board to see if it is sending 120 VAC up to the fan to even start.

Before you start any of this, you need to know 12 volt DC and 120VAC skills before attempting any of this. If any of this it beyond your ability, stop and take it to an electrician. I will not have every step you need to do, but point you where to look if you are electrically knowledgeable. Make sure the power is off before testing. There is a 20 amp breaker in the power panel.

Here are 2 wiring diagrams. The roof unit


The inside control board


The control box is inside up in the air box. Looks like this. This pic is already out of the air box area.


The cover off


The control board itself so you can read it


There is a low and high fan wire. Red is low speed fan and black is high speed fan on the PC board itself. They are push on blade terminals. The relay on the control board sends 120VAC power to those 2 wires at the correct time. If you unplug the low or high from the board, you can meter test or test lamp test the relay to be supplying 120VAC when the fan should be on. The controls run on 12 VDC so the battery needs to be on when you turn on the T stat, the control board will work. You will be able to hear the relay click, or at least the compressor one as it is larger.

To test the fan motor on the roof, with the breaker off, unplug the red or black on the low or high fan wire and jump it to a hot wire. Turn the breaker on and the fan should start. OR You can also use a 120 volt light bulb or a meter as this is s simple relay.

You can grab 120 VAC on the compressor relay. The heavy black wire is hot when the breaker is on. Blue goes out to the compressor. If you do not want to power up the compressor, pull the big blue wire off the relay. Or even easier, just slide the T stat switch to fan only to run the fan manually.

See my jumper here the low speed fan wire and to the hot on the compressor relay.

If the board is working, then the problem is up top on the roof unit if the fan will not start.

The start capacitors are in the rectangular box on the side of the roof unit. There is usually a hornets nest there too, heads up. Seems that way every time I'm into one.... The wiring diagram I posted is on the outside of the box








On the fan, if you have an older analog meter you can test if the capacitor is toast. You can see my old blue one in the back ground.

Heads up, if the capacitor does not have a resistor across the terminals it need to be discharged before testing.

Page 28 of this PDF talks about testing the capacitor

Page 27 talks about shorts or open wiring on the fan motor stator tests. You can test to see if the motor has an open circuit to AC common or a dead short.

http://www.nwrvsupply.com/manuals/du...at_service.pdf

Rather then me typing it, you can read those 2 pages and it should get you honed in to the right area.

Hopes this helps and let us know how it goes.

John
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Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

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