Sunline RV Forum
Sunline User Photos

Go Back   Sunline Coach Owner's Club > Technical Forums > Repairs and Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Join Sunline Club Forums Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-13-2019, 10:50 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 34
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
2001 T260 slide adj.

Last year and the first of this year JohnB was helping me with an adjustment, but found out the slide floor was rotting. Fixed the floor and was going to do the adjustments and go on vacation , but wife has been sick. So now need to get back to the adjustments The inside trouble seems to have gotten better, but when closed the top rear corner is out more then the front top corner. Thanks for any help to start adjusting.
__________________

__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2019, 10:10 PM   #2
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Hi maint1,

Welcome back to the camper repair...

A lot has transpired since we last talked on your slide. And I may have forgotten a few things...

Pictures of what you are seeing really helps in this case. You said this;

Quote:
The inside trouble seems to have gotten better, but when closed the top rear corner is out more then the front top corner.
You said the "top" rear corner and the front "top corner". In most cases the top of the slide touches first when the slide is retracted in. Then the bottom touches. This forces the top to be tight.

It seems your top is not tight. Is the bottom on the front and rear tight or have a gap?

Need some pics to see what you are up against. Try to show the whole front and rear side closed up, top to bottom if you can. And close ups too so I can see the top corners and the bottom.

John
__________________

__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2019, 10:15 AM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 34
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Smile T-260 slide

Thanks for getting back John. It is raining here in Va. today, but will try to get pictures tomorrow. If you remember the problem before we found the floor rotten was the inside rear top corner was out the slide was extended now when the slide is closed the top is out on the out side. The bottom is tight on the rear and the front of the slide is tight on the top and bottom. Its like I reversed the trouble when I fixed the floor. It must be tight enough that I do not see any leaks yet. Will get pictures when I can. Thanks Have a great day!
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2019, 10:23 PM   #4
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
OK, thanks. Will wait for the pics to see what we can see on them, and recommend what to do next.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2019, 08:43 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 34
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
slide pictures

Go a few pictures yesterday. While taking them noticed the front top is out some also but not as much. The seals must be touching though because I see no leaks. Hope you can see, seems like after looking at the pictures it is in tight at the bottom on both ends and is out at the top on both ends but more at the rear top
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_0124_LI.jpg (63.5 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0125_LI.jpg (44.6 KB, 7 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0126_LI.jpg (63.5 KB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0127_LI.jpg (53.5 KB, 5 views)
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2019, 11:57 AM   #6
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Good pics! This is a good place to start.

There is an evolution of Sunline slide room changes in how they built them and the mechanical drives they used to move them in and out. This summer we camped with some good friends who has a 2001 T250SR. They have the couch/dinette slide. Their camper is setup on an 8Ē frame with rating of 7,000# GVWR and does not have the flush floor slide system. Their slide goes straight in and out, rests above the floor the whole time and there is no lifting feature to it when the slide comes in.

Your 2001 T260SR I suspect is on a 10Ē frame as it has a 10,000# GVWR or at least the brochure says it does. And yours has the flush floor slide. This pic of yours from your old post shows the flush floor.


It seems in year 2001 Sunline was using 2 types of seals. A bulb seal which has 2 bulbs and a wiper blade that pushes onto the aluminum slide flanges screwed into the walls of the camper.

Yours has a second seals that is bonded to the slide room flange itself. This seal contacts when the slide is closed.

Both your T-260SR and our friends T-250SR uses these double seals. See here on the T250SR.

The slide room wall flange with 2 bulbs and a wiper


The T250SR outer slide room flange seal


I can tell by this pic of yours T260SR, the outer seal is not compressed correctly at the top, indicating like you said, the top of the slide room does not seem to be touching the camper wall.


And the rear slide room seal looks the same. This points to the entire slide at the top is not touching when the slide is fully closed. But, they seem to be out of location close to the same amount meaning a global adjustment on the slide may correct both front and back.

With your flush floor mounted slide system, the top should not be hanging out like your pics show. With your 2 sets of slide seals creating more seal compression room for the slide to travel in, there is one thing that I can see causing the top to pop out like that.

First before any adjustments, we have to understand how your slide closes and ďwhenĒ the top of the slide pops out.

See this prior explanation of how my 2004 flush floor slide closes. The top of the slide touches first, then the bottom comes in and touches the camper and the system stop moving. And to note, in 2004 Sunline only used the 2 bulb, wiper seal system. There was no secondary seal system on the outer slide room flange seal. This link will drop you into your old post right where I am showing pics of the closing process.
T260SR slide

Please confirm your slide when it closes does this: (odds are high it does not)

1. The top of the side touches the camper slide flanges first on the slide retract motion. The bottom of the slide is a few inches still away from the camper at this point.
2. Once the bottom of the slide room flanges touches, the seals compress and the motor drive system stops and the top of the slide is tight to the camper as is the bottom of the slide.

What I suspect may be happening is, step 1 above works right. But step 2 does not. On yours, the top does touch first but then will pop back out as the bottom of the slide finishes closing. Please confirm what is occurring.

Take some pics of the closing process when the top just touches. What does the top look like and the bottom look like at this point.

Then try and jog the slide in a little bit until the top just starts to pop out. Pics of top and bottom. This would not be the normal stopping point on the bottom of your existing setup.

Also if you can, after doing the jog in the step above, measure or estimate how much more stroke distance the bottom moves in to be fully compress and the motor stops.

I donít want to jump to conclusions on what may be wrong until we know why your top section is popping back out. Assuming it is popping out.

One thing to start looking for,
There is a possible adjustment on motor torque. See if you can back track the slide motor wiring. Power Gear uses an electric torque setting feature for more torque in and out of the slide. What I do not know is, what your older Delwald slide unit has. Power Gear bought out Dewald. Assuming yours has this electric torque control, the motor wires go to it, it has some relays on it, some potentiometers and wires which then go up to the in and out buttons you press to bring the slide in and out. If you find that torque/relay board, takes some pics of it. Where it is mounted I do not know. It may be inside a cabinet inside the camper close to the in/out switch.

Hope this helps

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2019, 08:10 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 34
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks John, If the rain stops tomorrow will get to it and let you know. I remember that the arm on the rear has a angle on it that seems to be a stop. It has a hole in it with treads but no bolt. Is that a stop adjustment. I'll get a pic. of it also. Have a great week!
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2019, 08:32 PM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 34
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
found picture of stop in out original post
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_0845[1]_LI.jpg (87.3 KB, 49 views)
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2019, 10:35 PM   #9
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Yes, I now recall that angle iron welded on the gear rack. When you go out and look at the slide, also look at the other gear rack slide arm

The other slide arm seems to have a piece of key stock welded on the bottom of the arm. See here


Please take a pic of both of those possible stops when the slide is closed. Trying to see how far away they are from whatever they would stop against. And which supposedly stop goes on what slide arm. Ideally if a stop is used, it should be on the master rack with the gear motor drive and not the auxiliary rack which is driven from the square shaft.

I would not yet use those pieces as hard stops, at least until we understand the whole problem. And if you can find that torque control module if it exists. If they have the torque cranked up to max and we use a hard stop, that might create other issues by accident.

Thanks

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2019, 10:49 PM   #10
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
This may help. I uploaded a Power Gear service manual. Power Gear bought out Dewald when they went out of business. This manual may not have your exact same slide drive, but it could be useful.

It does show the torque control relay modules and what they look like. The unknown is, if the relay board was added after Power Gear bought them out or was it an original of Dewald.

See this link to our files section with the manual Sunline Coach Owner's Club - Sunline Owner's Files - Power Gear Slide system manual
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2019, 02:31 PM   #11
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 34
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Do not find any controller other then the in-out switch and on-off switch. Moved it in and out and the top dose not touch before the bottom touches. Moved the rear adjustment out and seems to be better, but still never compressing the top seal all of the way on both ends. If the weather gets better will look more for controller. They run from the motor to the front of the trailer but to wet to get any further.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_0141_LI.jpg (56.0 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0142_LI.jpg (62.0 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0143.jpg (66.5 KB, 74 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0144_LI.jpg (39.9 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_0145.jpg (47.8 KB, 35 views)
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2019, 08:45 PM   #12
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Good pics! OK, we know there is a stop on both the master rack and the auxiliary rack. It appears the slide arms are driven until the stops meet the pinion housing. Does the dirt witness lines show this? The dirt should be mashed at the contact points.

I want to make sure there is not a typo in this, as this is an issue to work through if what you are saying is accurate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
Moved it in and out and the top does not touch before the bottom touches. Moved the rear adjustment out and seems to be better, but still never compressing the top seal all of the way on both ends. If the weather gets better will look more for controller. They run from the motor to the front of the trailer but to wet to get any further.
Making sure I have this right, you are saying the "bottom" of the slide touches first, and that the top of the slide has not yet approached the slide flanges? Try and get a pic of that is possible. How much gap difference is there at the top and bottom when the bottom touches? Try to measure the metal and not the rubber.

See here on mine. Again this is a flush floor slide with the cam action created by the metal slide trough in the floor of the camper. Yours has the metal floor cam through, but it may not have the slide room built like the following year models.

On the slide retract motion, the top touches first. The bottom is about 2 to 3" away from the camper.


When the slide is fully in and the motor stops, inside the camper the slide floor should be pointing uphill up off the carpet on the innermost ends by 1" or more.

Does yours have this slide floor lifting action up off the carpet? Pics here help too, to show what you are seeing

Here is something else to check. Since 2001 "may have been" the 1st year for a flush floor design at Sunline, (I'm not positive of this, but other 2001 slides are above floor and not flush floor) they may have made the slide room different (parallel end walls ) then the following model years (trapezoidal end walls).

Please try this, with the slide fully extended, measure the top of the slide "T" , from the metal flange on the slide outer wall to the metal molding on the side the camper. Then measure the bottom of the slide "B", from the metal flange on the slide outer wall to the metal molding on the side the camper. Measure at the molding and slide flange in the same approx location as you did up top, just at the bottom. Go metal to metal and not include the rubber seals which could have a lot of variance in the dimension.


To bottom B dimension should be longer than the top T dimension by approx. 2 1/2" to maybe 3" making the slide outer wall not parallel the camper on purpose. Tell me what the B & T dim. is? If they happen to be close to the same dimension, this just a bit harder to sort out.

On your slide wiring, up front there should be a fuse or a self resetting circuit breaker to power the slide motor from the battery. The fuse might be inside in a small wooden junction box up front inside a cabinet.

Your On/Off switch is a safety kill switch. It is used in the event something happens to the normal In/Out switch and you have to quickly kill power to the slide motor for safety reasons.

It may just be yours does not have the newer Power Gear slide torque control. It may be like the newer Lippert motors, the motor just plain stops when it runs out of torque as the resistance is so high and you let go of the button.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2019, 08:56 PM   #13
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
Moved the rear adjustment out and seems to be better, but still never compressing the top seal all of the way on both ends.
By doing this, it most likely will/may create a problem inside the camper when the slide goes out.

I'm assuming you adjusted here in these slots on the auxiliary rack?


If you moved the slide room out away from the camper to help the closing issue clamp issue up top, that adjustment then may create a problem inside the camper when the slide is extended out. The master rack side will touch slide seals inside first and shut down the motor. And the auxiliary rack then which is driven off the master rack that just stopped will not/may not, have enough stroke to compress the slide seals inside on the rear wall. There would be a gap on the inside flange to the inside seals.

You might have to put that adjustment back where it was. Have a look inside and feel with your fingers if the seal compression is equal all the way around, front top to bottom, rear top to bottom and then all along the top of the slide. If the gap is a lot different, then we have to adjust for that. It is never going to be exact all the way around, but if we are pushing 3/16" or larger gap, we may be able to adjust is better.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2019, 08:20 PM   #14
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 34
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
T260 slide

Hi John Got time to go over some of the things. 1st with the slide out the Top is only 3/4" smaller then bottom. Found the control for the slide in the back of the from storage, hard to get to but looks like there is no adjustment. Don't know if the factory uses wire nut or someone has worked in this box before. Adjusted the rear slide back. When I closed it up the front looks about right the back is close but not completely the same as front. When closed the slide is not centered in the opening, looks like could be a hard adjustment. Take a look at the pictures and let me know what you think, no hurry. Thanks a lot for all your help, hate being a pain! Rado
Attached Images
File Type: jpg circuit board.jpg (89.9 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg back.jpg (145.9 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg front.jpg (145.4 KB, 35 views)
File Type: jpg locateion.jpg (80.1 KB, 2 views)
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2019, 11:18 AM   #15
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
Hi John Got time to go over some of the things. 1st with the slide out the Top is only 3/4" smaller then bottom.
This is good to know. The newer slides may have change between top and bottom then yours, but the good news, your slide has tapered sides as this pic shows.


Seeing that pic, it is hard to understand how the bottom is touching before the top. It appears we are seeing the top touch before the bottom, at least on the front of the slide. Let's compare notes, on the front, the top does touch before the bottom, yes/no?

What does the back do?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
Found the control for the slide in the back of the from storage, hard to get to but looks like there is no adjustment. Don't know if the factory uses wire nut or someone has worked in this box before.
Sunline did commonly use wire nuts. They are all over the camper. You did good finding this junction box.


With the wires laying on top of each other, I zoomed in and tried to back into the exact wiring of the slide control module. Too jumbled on the wires to exactly tell how it is wired or the words on the side of the controller. Some time see if you can get and post a clearer pic of the side of the controller with the wires spread apart.

I'll point out what I am seeing.

The green 30 amp fuse "might be" the truck charge fuse. This protects the truck and wiring between the camper battery and the truck. If that fuse blows, the battery will never charge from the truck.

In the black taped up item with the silver feet and the 2 yellow wire eye terminals on it is "most likely" the camper power converter self resetting circuit breaker. They are often 30 amp rated. It goes between the battery hot lead (+ pos) and the power converter to protect the wiring of a short or overcurrent and not cause extreme damage to the battery or camper wiring.

But... there is always a but, the 30 amp self resetting breaker may be tied also to the slide power. Need to see the wires spread apart to better tell.

The little red fuse holder "might be" the fuse for the slide drive in and out control. In your pic, there are 3 small wires coming out of the top end of the slide controller. A red, green and what looks like purple. We can't see them in the pic very well. The wiring diagram on page 108 of the Power Gear manual I linked in the post above shows a 5 amp fuse in the glide room in and out circuit. That may be the 5 amp fuse in that little red glass fuse holder.

Did you take a pic of the backside of the switch? How many wires are there and what are the colors? It looks like there "might" be 3 wires in this pic heading to the front junction box maybe? A black, white and other color wire.


I said "might & most likely" based on what Sunline has done on other years slide drives and the 7 wire plug junction box. You will have to spread out those wires to tell better.

Try and get pic of the side of the slide controller with the lettering on it . We can hunt to see if we can find it on the web to confirm there are no slide motor torque adjustments in that black box.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
Adjusted the rear slide back. When I closed it up the front looks about right the back is close but not completely the same as front. When closed the slide is not centered in the opening, looks like could be a hard adjustment. Take a look at the pictures and let me know what you think, no hurry. Thanks a lot for all your help, hate being a pain! Rado
OK good. And yes, the front looks good at this point, but the back is out of sync with the front. Your pic shows this.


The back does look like it is top tilted like the front, just the entire back is not synced with the front. There is an adjustment for this. Now how to do it on your Dewald slide drive.

Page 67 in the Power Gear manual shows a drawing of what looks like your slide drive right down to the slide controller and the little glass fuse holder. It also shows the shadow of the angle iron stop on the auxiliary slide drive.

I wish you were closer, would come over and we an point and talk to this. But here goes, I will try and explain what we are trying to do with syncing the master rack with the auxiliary rack.

The master rack (slide arm) has the motor drive connected to it. The output shaft of the master rack gear housing connects to a square shaft that drives the rack and pinion in the auxillary drive. Those 2 gear racks need to be in sync'd (timed) so that the front and rear slide arms push and pull in the same mechanical timing. Then both the front slide seal and rear slide seal touch the camper inside and outside at the same time.

Your slide by the pics, shows the rear slide arm is retarded on the slide room retract stroke. It is behind the front slide arm.

There are 2 ways on your system to adjust the timing between the front master gear rack and the rear gear rack. You move the gear teeth engagement or you shift the rear slide arm end bracket in the slots.

By these pictures, it appears the slide arms are totally in as far as they can mechanically go. As the hard stops are just about touching the pinion gear housings.

The rear housing and the angle iron stop




The front with the square stock stop just about touching the pinion gear housing


This tells us the gear racks are synced as close as they can be. You cannot move the rear slide arm in any further by jumping the gear teeth as the angle iron stop is already at the housing.

This leaves you with only adjustment left, loosening these bolts and sliding the slide room in towards the camper.


You just did some of this and I think you put it back from my caution. But we didn't talk about what all needs to be checked to know this is adjusted in the correct place.

Here is what you need to end up with. Note: When you adjust the rear slide arm, you are changing both the inside seals clamping when the slide is out and you are changing the outside seals clamping when the slide is in.

INSIDE the camper when the is traveling "out".

Odds are high, something's not right with the front and back slide wall seal flange compression the way you slide is adjust right now.

Step 1. Start by doing this, run the slide out and stop about 6" to 8" short of all the way out. Make sure you just stop it going out and not jog back in quick. Need all the gear play in in direction. Measure at the bottom and top of the front and rear slide walls at the same place each end. You are looking at how even the front and rear slide is when the motor drive is pushing the slide out. Try to measure the metal flanges to the metal wall flanges as the rubber can have variance. Odds are high the front and rear are not the same right now. Note which is ahead or behind the other by the numbers. Write them down too so we can talk to them.

Step 2 Once step 1 is done, then open the slide room all the way until it stops.

Check the front and back seals vertically up and down the wall and feel that the slide room flanges compress the seals about the same by sliding your fingers along the wall and the seal or flanges. They will never be exact, unless by luck, but ideally are within 1/16" maybe 3/16" max different top to bottom. Less difference is always better. Also run your finger along the long top and see if the seal compression is fairly equal all the way long the top.

I suspect if the step 1 shows the front and rear are not even, the seal clamping in step 2 will be off as well. From what the outside is showing now coming up short in closing on the rear wall, the inside rear wall will be clamping first. We need to change that.

Once you see how the inside is clamping uneven, then tweak/adjust the rear slide arm in small increments to make the front and rear wall go out more even. It is going to be trial and error based on what you are seeing to have the inside clamp even and then the outside to clamp even also. Point is, you have to look at both when you adjust the slide arm.

NOTE: IF there can be excess play or slop in the slide drive system it can create differences between clamping inside and outside. Check the square shaft drive bolt holes for being worn, or the pinion gear bushing worn allow the gears to not mess correct. Try a large wrench on the square shaft with the slide about 1 foot away from full in or out. If the square shaft rocks a lot back into what is worn.

More in the next reply on how to shift the slide room front to back to put in in the center of the camper opening.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2019, 01:28 PM   #16
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
When closed the slide is not centered in the opening, looks like could be a hard adjustment. Take a look at the pictures and let me know what you think, no hurry. Thanks a lot for all your help, hate being a pain! Rado
Hi Rado,

Once you get the slide to close up correctly, there is an adjustment to center the slide room within the camper slide opening.

On your camper, crawl under and look up at the ends of the slide arms. There is a steel bracket from the slide arm which then bolts to the bottom of the slide floor. The bracket shows up in this pics.


I have not seen what yours looks like, but it should have a slide floor flange with most likely 2 bolts on each slide arm bolting the slide floor to the slide arm bracket. Those 2 bolts should have slots to allow the slide room to move to the front or the back. Here is mine showing the slots
[IMG][/IMG]

Next is the actual bolts that are screwed in to hold the brackets to the floor. On the older campers, they used lag bolts. Hoping yours is this way. On my 2004, they used carriage bolts. Not good.... while they work at the factory, after years in the field the threads of the bolt rust and when you go to loosen the nuts, the carriage bolt head spin in the wood. On yours hopefully all you can see is the hex head of the lag bolt.

Now to figure out what has to move and in what direction. I'm going to use my camper to show what to look for. Yours will be a little different but I'm sure you can follow the thought process.

Before doing any adjustments we need to look how the slide room seats in the camper slide opening. How is it left to right and how it is front to back and along the top of the slide (up and down)?

See here. What you want to look for is the gap all the way around the slide, front wall, rear wall and top of the slide, on how parallel the gap is between the slide room flanges and the camper wall flanges.


Here you can see the gap, barely


Here is a close up. Measure top and bottom to determine how far off center the slide room is front to back.




While you are measuring, look along the top of the camper for the same gap.




While yours has a double set of seals, try and get measurements on the metal flanges.

If the top along the slide wall flange shows the front and rear of the slide is going uphill or downhill as the gap along the top is a wedge, then odds are high the front and rear walls gap is most likely are also a wedge (not parallel). We are looking to ideally not be a lot more then 1/8" to 3/16" out of parallel between the ends or the slide walls and along the top. And you may find, the top is parallel, and maybe the front is parallel, but the back wall is not parallel or other combinations. If you find this, lets talk on how far out it is. There are reason on how this can come to be. You can live with some more then the 3/16" but we have to check some other areas first.

First is to get the slide room parallel on the front and rear wall and then the top slide flange to the slide opening. Figure out which end of the slide has to be raised or lowered to even out the slide. You can also look at how the siding is lining up to tell if you lift the front or drop the back with the string from the front to the back. When the siding is inline, then you are real close to factory up and down vertically. You did this last time.


Here is a rule of thumb on the vertical height for flush floor slides. If you lower the slide at the slide arm end, when the slide comes in it will lift the floor up higher off the carpet. If you raise the slide at the slide arm, then the slide floor will be closer to the carpet when retracted. You don't want the extremes of full up or down as it can cause other issue. You need to find the sweet spot in between.

These brackets on yours allow the slide to be adjust up and down. You need to place a jack under the slide room at the outer wall only, loosen the bolts and adjust up or down.


See the jack holding the weight as I adjust the slide up or down.


Once the up and down is done, recheck the gap on the edges for being parallel as the up and down may have changed it. Once you know if you want to move the slide forward or back to center it better in the slide room opening, you do this.

You need a floor jack with wheels on it and a solid surface. Ideally 2 floor jacks, but I have done it with 1 floor jack long ago before the 2nd jack came.

The slide needs to be at least part way out. I go for about 3/4 of the way out. This allows a lot of the slide weight to be on the jacks and not dragging on the slide floor. You cannot go all the way out as the slide seals will be tight and the slide hard to move.

Again, only at the walls of the slide do you lift it. Do "not" lift in the open middle of the floor. There is no vertical support. The walls are the structural part.

Loosen the bolts clamping the floor to the slide arm brackets. The lag screws.

Using 2 jacks, I put one on each end. Using 1 jack, out the jack in the middle of the outside wall. Using wood blocks to get the jack up high enough.


Lift the room a little. About 1/8" to 3/8". Too high and you hit the top of the slide opening. Too low you do not get enough weight off the slide to move it.

Then move the slide. Two guys pushing helps but I have done it by myself, both pushing (jogging it) and it moves a little. Then push again. Push on the wall out by the jack. OR pry with a bar and wood block to protect the flanges.


NOTE: When you move the slide room, look at the dirt witness lines at the attachment brackets that the front and rear slide arm is moving the same amount. Sometimes one end slides correctly and the other will flex the slide arm and not move. This can create a bind in the system. You can see if the clearance is even at the slide arm housing


And you can measure both ends before moving to make sure each end moved the same.




Tap to adjust if needed.


You may still have some issue of slide seal compression, but you may not know that until the slide is centered and the proper vertical height.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2019, 01:36 PM   #17
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by maint1 View Post
Thanks a lot for all your help, hate being a pain! Rado
Hi Rado,

Your not being a pain. I'm sorry this is so somewhat intense on all the needs to do the adjustments. One does not really want to start adjusting a slide until you look over and understand the entire thing. The adjustments are not always intuitive.

You keep working at it and reporting back and I'll keep helping as I can. We are all learning how your older Dewald system is working. The newer Lippert rack and pinions have more adjustments making some of this easier. But also with more adjustments, comes more chances to get the slide out of whack.

Your doing great and learning how your slide system works. You will have it all down pat by the time you're done with it.

Hope all this helps

John

PS. I sent a message to one of our members who back in 2012 had some slide manuals from Dewald on his 2001 slide. I hope he can still respond and has the manuals. They may be all be prior to the Power Gear buyout. This can help many of us. If I get anything back, I will pass it on.
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2019, 09:00 AM   #18
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 34
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
2001 slide

Morning John, Got a better picture of control box and it seems to be the Dewald nonadjustable . The breaker mounted to the floor goes to it from battery. Did as you said and adjusted a little at a time the in-out on the rear and looks good when closed and is good inside when open. Will have to wait on the centering until can get in my son-in-laws shop on a hard floor with 2 floor jacks. Thanks for all your help!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 3 wire sw.jpg (33.7 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg control.jpg (71.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg front.jpg (59.2 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg back.jpg (69.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg box3.jpg (73.9 KB, 2 views)
__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2019, 09:50 PM   #19
Moderator
 
JohnB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,133
SUN #89
JohnB is on a distinguished road
Glad you were able to tweak the slide adjustment better. Yes, I see whole slide needs to move toward the back of the camper.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

John
__________________
Current Sunlines: 2004 T310SR, 2004 T1950, 2004 T2475, 2007 T2499, 2004 T317SR
Prior Sunlines: 2004 T2499 - Fern Blue
2005 Ford F350 Lariat, 6.8L V10 W/ 4.10 rear axle, CC, Short Bed, SRW. Reese HP trunnion bar hitch W/ HP DC

Google Custom Search For Sunline Owners Club
JohnB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-28-2019, 07:26 AM   #20
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Virginia
Posts: 34
SUN #10865
maint1 is an unknown quantity at this point
Thanks John could have never done the whole project with out you, from the rotted floor to the adjustments. Thanks again. have a great winter if I do not need you again before spring.
Rado
__________________

__________________
maint1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
johnb


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2001 T260 SR slide floor maint1 Sunline Slide Room Travel Trailers 10 04-19-2019 01:23 PM
2001 Sunline Solaris Slide room motor Woodsfam Repairs and Maintenance 29 09-24-2018 01:15 PM
Our slide won't work on our 2001 sunline solaris daddybass Repairs and Maintenance 6 07-30-2013 09:58 PM
2001 260SR slide divider Vicky Sunline Slide Room Travel Trailers 11 05-03-2013 12:35 AM
2001 T260SR slide problem lovetorv Sunline Community 7 04-01-2013 08:33 AM


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sunline RV or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:17 PM.


×