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Old 10-18-2014, 02:57 PM   #1
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1994 Sunline 279 SR

We had a tire blow out on the right back wheel well, near our steps. There is propane tubing that runs above the wheel well, (to fridge/stove?). We are not sure if it is damaged, as we don't remember what it looked like before. There are no knicks in tubing, but it does appear bent(but we are not sure that it was molded that way? does anyone have a manual? or what these lines go to? Any information will be helpful. Thank You
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Old 10-18-2014, 10:25 PM   #2
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Hi and welcome to Sunline Owners Club! Bummer on your tire failure.

Can you take a picture and post?

Some of the Sunline slide models have a 1/2" black iron gas pipe along the frame that later had tee's in it where they connected 3/8" copper tubing too and then went up inside the camper. Those 3/8 copper tubes feed the gas appliances, fridge, stove, HW heater and the furnace. Pending floor plan they may be in different locations.

These gas line will not show up in the Sunline manuals. The manuals where a generic manual on how to do certain things on the camper and now totally unique to a floor plan. However if you post some pic's of the piping, we can look and see if what you are looking at looks "normal".

If there are any abrasions (scratches etc) in the copper tubing from the tire blow out, they should be looked at closely and pending what is found, a pressure drop test for leaks done. A local gas service person can do it or a RV dealer. If the tubing was yanked hard enough by the tire debris, it may have damaged the flare fitting end where it attaches to the main gas pipe. Any damage or questionable areas to the gas lines need to be checked out before using again.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:05 PM   #3
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damage picture

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Old 10-19-2014, 06:07 PM   #4
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:23 PM   #5
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This picture is taken while I was laying on my back. The outside of the camper is on the left side of the picture. Black line is an another gas line coming off of a splitter, covered with hard black plastic. Copper line in front is the line in question, there are no Knicks or abrasions. But the line looks bent we are not sure it was molded like that around the wheel well or if the force of the tire blow out bent it up. both lines are below the refrigerator , our stove is forward of the fridge. My heater and water heater are also forward the stove. I disconnected copper line and was thinking of capping supply nipple and seeing what appliance did not work and then try to figure out how to change the line. I tried taking the front vent off the heater from inside the camper but NOTHING was visible. so my next step would be to remove the stove but not sure how hard it is to remove or should I just take it to a camper place. thank you so much for looking at this.
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:30 PM   #6
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Hi Ken,

The exposed copper line does not look good. At the fitting where it attached to the 1/2" main gas pipe is crimped and the flare inside under the nut may be stretched.

While the pics may be deceiving due to the focus, I myself would not trust that cooper line and just replace it. In my case I have the flaring tools needed and the manometer to do a pressure drop leak test. If you have never flared tubing before, in this case you may be better ahead having a LP gas service guy do this. It can be any LP gas guy, even one who services your home gas appliances if you have them. Or a RV repair place. A gas leak can be a real issue.

If this line goes to the stove, there may not be a need to remove the stove, maybe. Regardless the stove top needs to lift up to get to the gas line.

Once you get past lifting up the top, you can see the gas line

Here is the Atwood electronic ignition sealed burner one


And the standard non ele ignition one


To lift the top up, you have to push straight back at the front center of the stove top, it will unlatch then pivot up. Some time it takes a good tap to unlock it. The latch is right in front of the center burner.

Push back here to unlock the latch up front


Then it pivots up in the front. My thumb is where the latch is.


Hope this helps and good luck

John
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:15 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ravehon View Post
. I tried taking the front vent off the heater from inside the camper but NOTHING was visible.
When you say heater, I'm assuming this is the furnace. The gas line is access from the outside cover.

You can see there, the copper line feeding the furnace is inside and goes to the red rubber gasket cover of the furnace. To get to the fitting you have to take the outside cover off




When you take the cover off outside it will look simailr to this. The gas fitting is on the left by the red gasket area


The only thing I caution, if you do not have to take that fitting off, then do not. It can be a royal pain in some cases to get it back on. However if that is the damaged line, then you have no choice and it has to come off. Hopefully Sunline left good slack in the line to allow the copper tube to move a little when you go to hook it back up. I had a heck of a time with my T2499 getting the line to go back on straight and then spin the nut by hand. There is not a lot of room in there

Hope this helps

John
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Old 10-25-2014, 07:11 PM   #8
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Thank you

Thank You all very much. I successfully opened the top of the stove to check behind it. I took some pictures and I took them to our local propane dealer. He said he will fix and inspect the line. Thank You All very much for all the pictures and help.
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Old 10-25-2014, 09:08 PM   #9
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Great!

Hopefully you can get as few camp outs in before the end of the season.

Happy Camping

John
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Old 10-26-2014, 07:23 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Great!

Hopefully you can get as few camp outs in before the end of the season.

Happy Camping

John
We are already winterized and put into storage!!! Our camping season has ended!
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Old 11-08-2014, 11:47 AM   #11
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the local propane guy cannot do the work due to insurance liability so back to doing it myself. I have taken the stove out and found the damaged copper line in the wheel well goes to the furnace. So I want to replace the line, my question is can I replace the copper line with flexible line same as in a gas grill.
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Old 11-08-2014, 04:13 PM   #12
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I wouldn't. It is best to double flare the copper your fittings could be reused but the 3/8 copper will need to be replaced most gas line now comes coated with yellow plastic but it's easy to get off to install the fittings. An automotive shop should have double flaring tools just get the length right and let them flair it then bend it as needed.
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah View Post
I wouldn't. It is best to double flare the copper your fittings could be reused but the 3/8 copper will need to be replaced most gas line now comes coated with yellow plastic but it's easy to get off to install the fittings. An automotive shop should have double flaring tools just get the length right and let them flair it then bend it as needed.
I agree, the flexible line in this case is not good. I know you have one up front on the LP tank, but it is outside, not inside. The concern is the flex line in this application is not as rugged. It can rot, road chemicals get all over it and that is not great on the rubber. The copper will last (short of a tire blow out...) unless it gets dunked in road salt towing in the winter.

I never thought about going to an auto repair place to get the flares done. Good idea! They do double flares on steel brake lines and cooper is a walk in the park compared to the steel lines. If you can find a shop to do this, they should know how to do a double flare.

Make sure your line is a little longer then needed. Maybe even a 1 to 2" if you have extra room inside. Being short for sure will not work, being 2 inches longer can be more manageable.

Take the old line with fittings on the end. Get the new line and take the whole thing to the shop. Home Depot/Lowes has the tubing. They will cut off the nuts and reuse them on the new line assuming they at not damaged.

I wonder if your gas guy would flare the fittings for you if you brought him the parts and then you installed. Maybe?? maybe not.

After you install, use leak check solution or soapy water and do a leak check. At the new line and other lines in the area which may have been affected.
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Old 11-09-2014, 02:19 PM   #14
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To check for LP leaks, it is best to use the bought solution. After checking for leaks that way do a leak check by making sure all appliances are turned of. turn your bottles on. Your regulator will show green. Turn both bottles off. Check regulator indicator 30 minutes later. It should still be green. If not recheck fittings with solution again.
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