1988 Solaris renovation help

[bunjin]

https://www.google.com/search?q=vibr...utf-8&oe=utf-8

This is the tool JohnB is referring too.

[gypsyRN]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Hi Tammy,

Odds are high the seal between the roof and the front siding has issues which is where the leak came from. I have not been into the metal roofs yet so to help we need some pics of the top of the seam outside and some of the inside to figure out the seam. Or a member who has been into this can help.

Point being, odds are high you need to take up the roof in the front to fix the leaking sealant between the roof metal and the siding. I do not know if they did this with butyl or putty tape like the rubber roofs or not. But there should be a sealant of something. The sealant looks black ozzing out between the connection of the roof to the siding in the area of the rafter that is rotted away and the screws are hanging in the pic you posted.

When you fix that seal and the roof is open, then the rafter can come out and a new one go in. And no need to cut it out with the roof in place.

If you find you really need to get the rafter out with the roof on, one of the vibrating tools with a saw blade can buzz up and cut the rafter out. You can control the tool before it comes close to the metal and crack off the last little bit of rafter. Do you have one of the vibrating tools? Or can borrow one from a friend?

Hope this helps

John

This is the outside picture, to the left is where the rotten rafter is missing and the screws are seen in the picture before

[IMG]https://



uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170609/a012ef755dd3548d51fb8b1518cde0f5.jpg[/IMG]
These were taken before I started on the roof with the heat gun!

I have a dremel tool, I was thinking I would need to peel the roof to expose the rafter to fix it, I have several other areas, on the interior, that I'm hoping I can cut away the rot and not have to peel the exterior to fix,

Thank you again JohnB


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gypsyRN]

Originally Posted by bunjin

https://www.google.com/search?q=vibr...utf-8&oe=utf-8

This is the tool JohnB is referring too.

Oh ok, thank you for the info, my brother has one I can borrow....
thank you bunjin


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JohnB]

Hi Tammy,

Once you get through all the goop on the roof seams, shoot some pics of the camper front and back ends roof seams and the gutter rail side seams. With all that goop on there, can't tell much of anything how the seams are made other that it is a boat load of work to get it off...

Thanks

John

[gypsyRN]

Originally Posted by JohnB

Hi Tammy,

Once you get through all the goop on the roof seams, shoot some pics of the camper front and back ends roof seams and the gutter rail side seams. With all that goop on there, can't tell much of anything how the seams are made other that it is a boat load of work to get it off...

Thanks

John

Yes I sure will and yes I feel this will take me a few long weekends to just get the goop off! I put duck tape over the seams and around the windows where I know it was leaking just to stop anymore water damage (I feel I have enough don't need anymore)

Thank you [emoji4]
Tammy




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[gypsyRN]

Hello again, need some help!!! Rewired each exterior marker light and both tail lights all worked for several days now I got nothing changed fuses, went through and made sure all connections are still connected still no lights, the only thing I did not take a part and put back together is the wiring with the fuses pictured here IMG_2720.jpg any help would be appreciated


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sunline Fan]

Could be a lot of things playing into why they don't work, but I'll ask a few questions first:

- Do you have an electrical test meter? This will really help in diagnosing issues. Fluke brand is the best, but you can even get cheap/free ones at Harbor Freight, which should work for basic diagnosis.

- Did you check the plug pins for corrosion/bends? Sometimes the pins get corroded inside, which won't let it connect to the truck. Similarly, if the pins get pushed out to the outside too far, they may not contact. A small flat blade screwdriver can help you bend them in a bit. But be careful pushing it into the truck, it may be kinda tight. Don't force it, bend them back out slightly if you need.

- Do you know if the plug on the tow vehicle is working? On newer vehicles with factory installed hitches (so anything about 20 years old and newer), the trailer plug is likely fused. So check your fuse panel in the vehicle to make sure all the trailer related fuses are good.

[gypsyRN]

Originally Posted by Sunline Fan

Could be a lot of things playing into why they don't work, but I'll ask a few questions first:

- Do you have an electrical test meter? This will really help in diagnosing issues. Fluke brand is the best, but you can even get cheap/free ones at Harbor Freight, which should work for basic diagnosis.

- Did you check the plug pins for corrosion/bends? Sometimes the pins get corroded inside, which won't let it connect to the truck. Similarly, if the pins get pushed out to the outside too far, they may not contact. A small flat blade screwdriver can help you bend them in a bit. But be careful pushing it into the truck, it may be kinda tight. Don't force it, bend them back out slightly if you need.

- Do you know if the plug on the tow vehicle is working? On newer vehicles with factory installed hitches (so anything about 20 years old and newer), the trailer plug is likely fused. So check your fuse panel in the vehicle to make sure all the trailer related fuses are good.

I ran out of time had to get back to work to support my expensive hobbies but will get an electric test meter for sure!

Truck wiring working great pulled a trailer full of hay just prior to hooking up to my sunline.

Found a good deal of corrosion on ground wire in a couple areas, put a brand new 7 way on the trailer to begin with and replaced all the clearance and tail lights .. old ones were all broken IMG_2621.jpgIMG_2627.jpg
All worked for a couple days then when I got ready to go for inspection none worked, changed fuses, friend said maybe bad new 7 way??

Or the fuse on the truck has blown between hauling hay and plugging in the travel trailer???

Thank you for your help I had done all I knew, you have given me a couple new ways to investigate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mainah]

My camper roof was the same way they covered the entire edge with standard roof tar. After spending hours removing the tar and the trim piece I found out it was all most impossible to leak there. When the roof was installed the edge was rolled over the siding about an inch then the aluminum rail was installed to keep it in place (along with 10,000 staples) The front and rear is a difference story

[JohnB]

This fuse connection is not original.



For clearance lights, brake lights, turn signals etc there is normally "not" any fuses in the trailer. There is normally on the trailer a 30 amp charge fuse which protects the truck and camper wiring melting.

The truck may have a fuse though in each DOT lighting circuit.

One thing that can be a "global" issue is loss of the truck ground on the camper. Before you go nuts trouble shooting the hot side of the lights, make sure the truck ground connection is good on the camper. Sometimes just taking a long piece of wire making a good ground on the truck frame and runing it to the camper lights as a touch test, can help show a lot. If adding a good ground the lights start working, then you know you have to track down where they are losing the ground circuit.

If you have a standard 12 volt test light you can check the 7 wire plug receptacle at the back of the truck. If that is working, then try the 7 wire cable junction box on the camper where the cable ties into all the camper DOT lights. If that wire is still good there, then you at least know the 7 wire cable is all working. Again, you need a good ground on the camper to even run a test light.

My flat bed trailer had all dead lights on it last week. Finally I used a piece of bare electric fence wire from the truck to the trailer frame to create a know good ground and "bingo" everything started to work. That was after I had it half tore apart checking for corroded connections on the hot side. Don't forget the simple stuff...

[gypsyRN]

Originally Posted by JohnB

This fuse connection is not original.







For clearance lights, brake lights, turn signals etc there is normally "not" any fuses in the trailer. There is normally on the trailer a 30 amp charge fuse which protects the truck and camper wiring melting.



The truck may have a fuse though in each DOT lighting circuit.



One thing that can be a "global" issue is loss of the truck ground on the camper. Before you go nuts trouble shooting the hot side of the lights, make sure the truck ground connection is good on the camper. Sometimes just taking a long piece of wire making a good ground on the truck frame and runing it to the camper lights as a touch test, can help show a lot. If adding a good ground the lights start working, then you know you have to track down where they are losing the ground circuit.



If you have a standard 12 volt test light you can check the 7 wire plug receptacle at the back of the truck. If that is working, then try the 7 wire cable junction box on the camper where the cable ties into all the camper DOT lights. If that wire is still good there, then you at least know the 7 wire cable is all working. Again, you need a good ground on the camper to even run a test light.



My flat bed trailer had all dead lights on it last week. Finally I used a piece of bare electric fence wire from the truck to the trailer frame to create a know good ground and "bingo" everything started to work. That was after I had it half tore apart checking for corroded connections on the hot side. Don't forget the simple stuff...

Thank you for the info, we found corrosion on the ground wire and rust on the area it was attached to hoping that will take care of the situation, ran out of time, had to get to my real job


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk