110 volts setup ?

[Pablocr]

Sorry guys!!! I know is boring to read about this once again... I write from Costa Rica and there is no one to ask for about RV therefore I posted this topic. I've just buy my 2003 solaris T2653 2 days ago and plugged in to 110 v however only microwave and wall outlets are working properly. JohnB explained very well one situation in other topic and I learned a lot about how my RV works. Now I went deeper and realized there is not 10 gauge red wire from battery, no battery, no 12 vdc converter ( if it is a board connected to main fuses ), no red wire in 30 amp fuse under the kitchen sink, just one that comes from fuses box. So... I have two options, number one is I brought nothing (no spare parts in my country) and this is my first worst business or two my RV has been setup to 110 volts ac and there is something I'm missing and that's why lights, refrigerator, air conditioner, etc etc are not working? some ideas ?? note: there aren't signs of violence that make me think that the converter has been stolen in customs agency, no wire cuts no missing cables... just two fans similars to pc fans... I apologize for my english. thx

[JohnB]

Hi Pablocr,

We will try to help the best we can. A 2003 camper is a fairly new camper and I can at least help relate to what was originally installed. The question now is, what do you have left?
This comment of yours:

two my RV has been setup to 110 volts ac and there is something I'm missing and that's why lights, refrigerator, air conditioner, etc etc are not working?

Originally the camper was setup to be self contained to run off of a 12 VDC battery. Plugging into 120 VAC is a luxury and then higher amperage appliances can be added like the microwave and “part” of an air conditioner, an option to use 120 VAC to heat hot water in place of LP gas.

What you listed, lights, refrigerator, air conditioner, also the water pump, the hot water heater on gas, the TV antenna power booster, the propane detector all need 12 VDC to be able to operate.

The Air Conditioner while it uses 120 VAC to run the fan and the compressor, it needs 12 VDC to run the control board. Same on the Hot Water heater, while it is in gas mode, it too runs needs 12 VDC to run the control board and the same goes for the fridge.

Now the question is, what do you have and have left in the camper?

A 2003 Solaris came with an American Enterprises or Centurion power converter. It would look like this. That is unless yours was an early 2003 build date camper that was made in very early 2002 they may have used a different brand power converter. Do you have something that looks like this?

The outside


The little door open


If you took the front panel off completely.


The 120 VAC breakers are on the right side. The 12 VDC power converter is on the left side. It is the electronic device with a circuit board and a big finned silver heat sink. There are 2 small fans in the back behind it.

I’m assuming this is what your camper had on day 1 from Sunline. Does yours look anything like this and what is left inside?

Since the 120 VAC still works odds are high that part is still intact. The power converter or at least the circuit board parts may have died a while ago. They have been known to burn out and there are no parts available for fixing the old board. That is unless you have access to an electronics technician who can trouble shoot the board itself. American does sell or at least they did a total replacement board. However I do not know if you can import one into where you are at.

An assumption may be, the prior owner had problems with the power converter and maybe took it out. If they did then they took the battery off up front by the LP tanks. Why they pulled the wire out??? do not know at this point. How they planned on powering up the camper is still a total unknow at this point.

Is there any chance you can take some pictures of what is left and then we can have a better idea of what you have to work with? The prior owner may have rigged up some kind of battery eleswhere in or on the camper and used a stand alone battery charger to recharge the battery.

Hope this helps

John

[mainah]

Could it be a FEMA trailer with no 12 volt system?

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by mainah

Could it be a FEMA trailer with no 12 volt system?

Good thought! H'mm lets check. I had to go look up when Katrina happend to see if the dates fit.

Timeline of Hurricane Katrina - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The storm started on August 23, 2005. The dates do not line up. Pablo has a 2003 unit. Both of our 2004 campers I know we had before Katrina even came to be.

That is unless someone converted the camper to a FEMA unit. Which could be being from the general area. However some of the orignal install should be hopefully somewhere in the camper.

We really need some good pics of the converter and the wireing under the front of the camper where the 7 wire plug is. Have no idea why someone would want to pull out the battery leads??? Just could tie them up for future use to the back of the header.

John

[Pablocr]

Hi guys!!! those pics show exactly my breakers and fuse box, on the other hand the electronic circuit board is missing so my new question is should I buy original spare parts by internet or there is a posibility to buy this normal converter that easily I can buy here in electronics stores and just send wiring to the fuse box as show in pics ? prices are similar...200 $$ 30 amp 120 v / 12 v.... thx

[Pablocr]

toworrow I'll take pics so you will see what I got.

[Sunline Fan]

The only Sunlines built specifically for FEMA were 2006 models. By the time Sunline got the orders for them and started producing the few they did, they were all built between the end of October 2005 and mid December 2005.

[Pablocr]

so this is the one ??? Intelli-Power PD9130 30A Electronic RV Converter/Charger

[JohnB]

The 30 amp one you picked is good, however it does not come with the charge wizard. However you can add it.

If you go the the 45 amp one, it comes with it already.
Intelli-Power PD9245C 45A Electronic RV Converter/Charger

However.... I do not know exactly on the 2003's however my 2004 it was setup for a 60 amp 12 volt DC convertor. While it only had 30 amps of 120 VAC, it had the 60 amp converter for the 12 volt system.

I repalced mine with this 60 amp model. Had to find a place to mount it, but used the old 120 VAC breakers and the fuse panel. Intelli-Power PD9260C 60A Electronic RV Converter/Charger

Why did you pick up the 30 amp model? Or did you read the 30 amps on the 120 VAC side and think that was what the 12 volt DC side needed? I have not seen a 30 amp converter on many of the newer campers. The older ones, yes.

Here is a thread on my conversion. http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f6...rade-8888.html

Hope this helps and good luck

John

[Pablocr]

Actually John the poor reason why I thought 30 amp was good is in order not to heat the fuse under the kitchen sink but nothing else. I didnt found nothing like a warning of something in users guide or similar... so if there is not limitation to upgrade to 60 amp I will be glad to impruve my rv... maybe tomorrow after your response I'll buy it the one you recomend.

Yes John I read your topic when you make your performance to install the new converter and I really get astonished with your work !!!! congrats!!!

[Pablocr]

I still owe you some pics but I had issues uploading from my mobile phone to here... Now seems to be blocked or something... feeling stupid hahaha I'll try using laptop

Oups !!! please read were ok not was ok

[JohnB]

Hi Pablo,

We really need to see the fuse panel and what is left of your converter to make sure you do not have something modified or just different.

Need a pic like this of your setup. You can take many more as well.
[img]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Sunline%20As%20Built/CX6000-exterior.jpg[/img]

And one like this
[img]http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b378/JBarca/T310SR%20Sunline%20As%20Built/CX6000.jpg[/img]

Thoise 2 pics will help tell us on the convertor. Out at the front of the camper on the trailer A frame by the LP tanks and under the back side of the header will tell us what is left or missing. Take a pic behind the header under the camper like this too. We are looking for that big white and red wire to hopefully be left.



My 2004 Sunline was setup on a 60 amp 12 volt DC system from the factory. The big yellow wire from the converter in the pic above provides 60 amps worth of power to the top of the 12 volt Fuse block.

Then on the fuse block there are 2 green 30 amp fuses on top that feeds the charge circuit to the battery. On each side of the fuse block with many smaller 15 amp or less circuits off of it feeds the power in the camper. The size of the wire and the fusing allows the 60 amp supply to safely feed all the circuits and charge the battery. The actual converter limited the 60 amps being sent down that big yellow wire.

Once we see what you have, then we can see what size power converter will work without having to redo a lot of wiring.

I do not understand your statement. Please try to better describe or get a picture of what you are trying to describe.

I thought 30 amp was good is in order not to heat the fuse under the kitchen sink but nothing else.

I cannot exactly follow this. The fuse size and the wire size needs to be correct to not allow overheating. There is load sharing going on with the 60 amp supply. You really shoud not be sending 30 amps draw of 12 volts to any one circuit on a normal basis. Even my battery charge line only draws 25 amps charge 2 grp 27 battereis. However many smaller circuits can add up to over and above 30 amps. 5 amps from one, 10 amps from the other, 5 more amps from a 3rd one and so on.

Hope this helps and looking forward to our pics

Thanks

John

PS Here are some more of the fuse panel area

[Pablocr]

Hi JohnB

This is what I got... my converter is centrurion 3000. the pic with a wood frame is this 30 amp fuse I told before, this is located under the kitchen sink. Here is one yellow cutted cable maybe is related to the auxiliary center ??? really dont know. Also here is where the 10 gauge red cable come from the fuse box however didnt goes out of the rv.
THX

[JohnB]

Hi Pablo,

Now we know what you have. Great pic's!!!! As I suspected, the prior owner most likely had issues with the converter, could not get parts and left it out. You for sure have no 12 VDC unless you are plugged into your truck and it is running off the truck battery through the TT battery charge line.

Your setup came from Sunline as a 60 amp 12 VDC system. I see no reasons why you cannot use the 60 Amp PD converter. This will give you all the 12 VDC inside the camper you want or need along with being able to charge up 2 group 24 or 27 batteries at the same time and not have a problem. If you want to save a few dollars you can use the 45 amp and if you are only going to use 1 battery you can get by. I would not go woith the 30 amp.

Now to the 30 amp concern of yours. And you keep saying no 10 wire. Either I am not understanding you correct or you have assumed a few things not technically correct.

The big red wire located in the top of the Centurion fuse block area is a number 6 awg wire, not a no 10. And then out in the wood box up front, that same big red wire shows up. That no 6 awg wire attaches to a 30 amp self resetting circuit breaker. The heavy no 6 awg wire is there to help lower the voltage drop along that long length or wire. And you will only ever get about 25 amps of charging to the battery due to that wire. Sunline knew this and they put a 30 amp breaker up front because of this.

What I cannot see in that wood box is the other heavy red wire that use to go out to the battery on the 2nd post of that self resetting circuit breaker. The pic cuts it off. If the heavy red wire is still there and going through the camper floor, that is the battery + lead. If they cut it off just at the breaker, then you would need to put it back on when you add the battery with a number 6 awg.

Can you take a pic straight down in that wood box so I can see all the wires? Also go under the camper and take a pic up from the bottom at the area where the 7 wire cable goes up from the floor? We can see what is there and what is missing. Also looking for a heavy white wire in this area which would be the battery - or ground.

Good luck, your doing great!

John

[JohnB]

You mentioned the yellow wire. I'm assuming you mean the yellow wire that is cut going no were in the wood box up front? Yes/no?

Here see my 2004 wiring box. This one is not inside, it is outside on the header frame but it has the same wires in it.





The yellow wire in mine goes no where either. It comes in on the 7 wire plug that goes in the back of the truck. In my picture is is barely seen but it is in the middle of the 7 wire cable and real short. It is the center pin auxiliary pin on the 7 wire cable. It is sometimes used for back up lights. In your case you do not have back up lights nor do I.

You can see on mine, the heavy red wire to the self resetting circuit breaker and then out the other side to a disconnect switch and then to the battery.

Hope this helps

John