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Old 07-28-2014, 02:25 PM   #1
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wood putty of awning conection repair?

The bottom of side pole of my awning got ripped out. The wood is rotten and wont hold screws. The only way I can think to get it connected again is did out some of the rotten wood and fill it with something that will hold the screws in. Wood putty? is the something better and stronger? Any suggestions. I was going to glue a thin piece of flash medal on over the damaged part of the siding with liquid nails in out the screws through it also. Does this seem like a workable plan? I can't use the awning anyway as the bottom wood is all rotten and the awning wont go out anyway. But I was afraid to try and take the whole thing off . Thought id end up doing a lot of damage to the camper in the process.
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:51 PM   #2
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Just my 2 cents. I think that point takes a lot of stress so you should replace the weak spot with something solid. Maybe you can pull a panel inside to replace a bad stud or the bad part of the stud. Then you may have to bolt through the wall for a solid fix.
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:03 AM   #3
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I have to agree with pwb01 because I noticed on mine earlier where that the bracket was not sitting square/ vertical. I knew something was up. If you look underneath you should see a tin (of sorts) floor. I took a grinder to that tin and opened it up by folding back a flap of sorts and exposing the 2x2 beams. I know that sounds scary and may sound like a lot of work but after all look what you found. Rot is rot and it won't get better. Question: if it's rotted there how far along does the rot go?

You need to find that out and cut the floor back beyond that rot. You need to see where the structural integrity joins up and replace what you can.

As an FYI I removed all those wood screw lags and replaced everything with 2 1/2 to 3" stainless steel bolts nuts and flat washers. I used the flat washer to distribute the pressure of the anchor better along the existing wood. I still had to open that tin floor below and inspect what I had for dealing with. I guess I was lucky.

You must close up that floor, bend it back and screw a do-it-yourself fastening. Then put some roofing tar over everything to prevent water/moisture from getting in.
Using the wood putty, the way you described, is superficial and does not address the initial problem.
On the brighter side you may have had a water leak near to where that braket is anchored and over time that immediate area rotted.
If you open up the floor underneath you might see rot in the immediate area and in good condition in either direction from the rot. If that's the case things could be fixable. Take another piece of 2x2 that is much longer that where the rotted ice is and bolt that into position along side of the existing piece. Framers use this method on rotted floor joists in old houses and I think it's called "sistering". as in brother & sister.
To save your trailer you might have to bolt through the siding but since you already have damage there now, by adding a shiny piece of aluminum or painted metal you might save the day. Looks like you or someone else drilled several holes as a trial and error to find a good anchor spot.Take things slow and easy and one stage at a time

Maybe some of the other members here could feel free to agree or disagree with my approach. Is there anyone that has had severe floor damage as Rivertrails mentioned?


EDIT: Btw cut the old rot out and insert new wood for that length THEN sister the new piece attached to its side. Say your cut out rot is 3 or 4 or 5 inches. Replace that and then sister at least double that to each side and bolt. Don't forget your dealing with weight so you have to make sure you're building something strong to deal with that weight
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Old 07-29-2014, 01:23 PM   #4
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Being that you "knocked" you connection out. I would take a ice pick or machinist awl and poke into the screw holes and adjacent to them to explore the wood damage and/or rot.

Jerry is right in that you do need to at least "sister" a repair if the wood is rotten. If you probe into the screw holes and find solid wood beyond the original screw length then you may be able to use longer hardware.
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Old 07-29-2014, 05:21 PM   #5
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Thanks for the suggestions. I think im going to take the whole canopy off and fill in the holes with( something?) the whole bottom wood is rotted to the other end of the canopy and the door stop also. I friend was going to try and work on it but he moved. I cant do it and can't afford to have a normal place do it. But thanks for your info. When he was planning on doing it we really didn't know how to go about it. I had just bought it. It looked good from the inside and outside and I didnt know how to tell it was rotted wood. I am hoping it will just hold out for me for a while yet. To tell the truth if there wasn't a canopy and poles that the screws wouldn't hold I dont think I would yet be able to tell if looking at another one in the future.
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:30 PM   #6
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I think Jerry has a good handle on it.

There are some other products you might want to consider, depending on the extent of the damage. Two products used in the wood boating community are Git Rot and Rot Doctor CPES. They are epoxy resins to penetrate the rot and leave a solid area that can be sanded and/or drilled.

Here is a link to Rot Doctor CPES. CPES™-Wood based epoxy products to repair and resist wood rot. A Google search will probably turn up more info about them.

Just something to consider, it may or may not be a solution.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:32 AM   #7
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Thanks for the link
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:33 AM   #8
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Thanks Gene.

I was also thinking that....if it appeared and feedback verified that there was solid wood from probing and very little and localized rot. I was holding the epoxy suggestion in reserve.

rivertrails,

Do a lot research in the forum files. You will find many on doing repairs and some with very good pictures as well.

Also, enjoy the trailer!
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