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12-06-2018, 07:35 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New York
Posts: 3
SUN #11015
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what gage wire for the extension cord?
Recently purchased 1998 T2363. Would like to know what gage wire I need to buy to go from my garage to the trailer?
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12-07-2018, 06:24 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 544
SUN #2366
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You can get by with a standard 16 or 14 ga. cord if you're only running converter to keep battery charged, and to run low draw items such as lights, water pump, furnace, and fridge (on propane). Do not use high draw items such as air conditioner, microwave, electric hot water heater, or any portable electric heaters. Best bet is a heavy duty extension cord, which is 12 or 10 ga. I still would not attempt to use air conditioner on any extension cord. A very real fire hazard! I just keep a battery tender hooked to the battery all winter. This way all the high draw 120v stuff is offline anyway. Only the 12v stuff is available. Length of cord is also an issue. The longer the cord, the heavier it must be. Try to keep it under 50'. There are some you tube videos on extension cord safety with RVs.
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12-07-2018, 06:28 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 544
SUN #2366
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If you use the battery tender method, make sure it is protected from the elements.
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12-07-2018, 07:26 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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The camper cord is a #10 wire rated 30 amps it's length is about max for full load AC, heater etc. If you are just running a small charger the load is minimal so any quality extension would work but that would not be enough for any 120 volt stuff in the camper due to the voltage drop, as voltage drops current climbs.
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12-07-2018, 05:23 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New York
Posts: 3
SUN #11015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j52wf
You can get by with a standard 16 or 14 ga. cord if you're only running converter to keep battery charged, and to run low draw items such as lights, water pump, furnace, and fridge (on propane). Do not use high draw items such as air conditioner, microwave, electric hot water heater, or any portable electric heaters. Best bet is a heavy duty extension cord, which is 12 or 10 ga. I still would not attempt to use air conditioner on any extension cord. A very real fire hazard! I just keep a battery tender hooked to the battery all winter. This way all the high draw 120v stuff is offline anyway. Only the 12v stuff is available. Length of cord is also an issue. The longer the cord, the heavier it must be. Try to keep it under 50'. There are some you tube videos on extension cord safety with RVs.
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Thankyou for your help.
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12-07-2018, 05:24 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New York
Posts: 3
SUN #11015
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Thank you.
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12-18-2018, 06:05 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Remember you are adding length to an existing cord so a 50' cord extension now becomes 75'
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12-19-2018, 05:41 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 279
SUN #6579
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Wire guage
I pull the battery out of mine for the winter, place it in the garage and put a charger/maintainer on it. Done this forever and no problems.
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1999 Sunline Solaris T2553--SOLD--
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12-20-2018, 06:29 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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I put the entire trailer in the barn and plug it into drop down outlet next to the trailer and charge both batteries! When I built the garage I made one roll up door 12X10 figuring I might need it for something big.
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12-20-2018, 10:27 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Virginia
Posts: 814
SUN #8893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah
I put the entire trailer in the barn and plug it into drop down outlet next to the trailer and charge both batteries! When I built the garage I made one roll up door 12X10 figuring I might need it for something big.
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My garage door is so small, I couldn't even get my Ford Escape through it. Tried backing it in once and had to fold the mirrors in.
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