Travel Trailer to Tower Trailer conversion - Page 3

**Sunline Fan** · 08-14-2018, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by holmzie

QUESTION: I see a membrane under the trailer, it is lapped up about 4" at the front, sandwiched between the outer skin and the wood framing. How's that configured...is it lapped up over the steel framing, holding up insulation against the floor bottom, sort of like a tub between the steel frame members? if water ever got in there it would never get out considering the floor above is covered with an impermeable "vinyl" flooring.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainah

Yes the membrane is a double edge sword if water gets in there the insulation just sucks it up and holds on to it like glue.

Yep. I continue to be intrigued by the use of this membrane. The older Sunlines didn't have this wrap, and they didn't have the same moisture trapping issues.

mainah · 08-15-2018, 08:14 AM

I actually considered boat scuppers on the membrane after repairing some floor and framework rot on mine a few years ago.

**JohnB** · 08-16-2018, 02:23 PM

The black membrane (Darco) is the product that a lot of the RV industry now uses for the bottom membrane. It does not go over the metal frame it is attached to the bottom of the floor supports and rests on top of the frame.

It is a lower cost to apply, lighter weight, waterproof and most of all, cheaper them using a metal bottom the older campers had. Campers are made to a price point.

As was said it will not let water out just alike it will not let water in. The key is to prevent the leak in the first place. The sealants to seal the roof, corner moldings, windows etc are a weak area period. Gravity also is well and alive in a camper. The water if it has enough volume to it will only stop going down until it either leaks out or stops at the Darco.

While creating a method that really works to let the water out of the basement has value, it is not simple. The area is so wide and long creating a low point drain spot or spots is the issue.

After seeing and dealing with fixing rot in enough campers I am working on better ways to create the actual seal to stop the water from getting in in the first place. I’m gaining and each fix keeps improving it.

The siding, if you can find the right someone that is rebuilding a camper with damaged siding it would be of great value to them. Maybe a post on offering it might help.

Many years ago I bought some parts off of a wrecked Sunline that was the same model year at least of ours and if I knew then what I know now I would of took the entire camper for parts. And be really glad I found it.

Key is finding that right someone...

The evidence exists in the camper how the leak or leaks occurred. Some are very subtle while others very obvious. I can see the putty tape failures in your pics. Any wood staining is a trail that water was once there. Sometimes it flows right on by other times it collects and is easier to see.

And for sure if there was a plumbing leak that was never cleaned up after, that is a big problem from the word go.

You are doing good. Keep the pics coming.

John

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

johnnybgood · 08-16-2018, 02:36 PM

Lucky for me, there was a small hole in the Darco when I first tested the city water connection. I saw water dripping out of the bottom. No trace of water inside the camper. If it hadn’t been for that small hole I would’ve assumed all was good when it wasn’t.

holmzie · 08-16-2018, 06:17 PM

Understood, JohnB.
Curious, but accepting here. It is what is. I am happy and grateful for what I have. It doesn't matter to me for this project, I will look up Dacro and see if it isn't a semi-permeable membrane. In which case the vapor "would eventually escape into the atmosphere" through osmosis. Got time? Yah.

Best to all,

holmzie N2EXG

holmzie · 08-23-2018, 07:27 AM

Hello again fellow SunLiners!

Made a lot of progress. Got the skin removed around the parameter from the bottom up, working my way around. Removed insulation, rolled the roof skin off. Removed the front and rear upper cabinets/bunks. Lights, Wiring, and the like.

The rear wall just fell in when I propped my step ladder against it and climbed up to salvage some wires. Went for a little ride, tee hee!

The rear deterioration is evident from the pics. it had sagged down 2" or so, wrinkling the bottom piece of skin. Both corner moldings suffered from water invasion. The rear right roof to the right of the window was all rotted.

Vertical framing at the bottom of the rear wall was rotted away, and the floor framing and floor were deteriorated. Someone sawed out the floor exposing the frame, and it is obvious that water accumulated in the pan-shaped Dacro bottom over a long period of time.

Popped out the roof screws, and sawzal-ed the rear 1/3 of the structure, roof, walls and all. Just pushed it right off the back.

I got around to the water tank drain, and figured I remove it. The water tank was never drained since the last outage years and years ago. It was clean, and I counted 7 or 8 fillings of a 3 gallon bucket. The tank seems completely intact, made of polyethylene and very forgiving, when kept out of sunlight, I guess

Cont....

holmzie · 08-23-2018, 07:40 AM

Presently in process of removing sink/stove, then closet/fridge. The toilet/shower will require some study as I wish to remove it intact if possible.

Hey folks: I realize that water had done more damage that originally was not so obvious. The cabinet door edges had expanded like a sponge, and warped a bit. I realize now that they are hollow, framed panels, that's why they are so light. And what I thought were "cabinets" are just front and bottoms against the trailer walls. Which is fine, but I don't think anything is salvageable except the sink, stove, shower & bath.

I took great pains to remove the aluminum skin carefully and tried not to buckle or crease the various panels. There were so many narrow sections, I was surprised. After all that I realize that I waisted so much time. Don't know if I will have any plans for the skin after all. If not I will see to it that I get the decals to those who want them, though they are not completely intact, the outline is complete if one wanted to re-create the actual decal.

Today I plan to finish removing the remainder of the structure, and the floor. Got to get the tower off the property in Brick township ASAP.

The pics today are a day or two old, and I will add more to bring you up to date next time.

Holmzie N2EXG

holmzie · 08-24-2018, 07:28 AM

From the ashes of it's mother will emerge new life... A SunLine Tower Trailer!

What a mess, I must admit. There were no less than 5 active ant nests, 3 rodent carcases, stickey traps with all sorts of bugs and critters on 'em. How are the ants so smart as to avoid the stick traps?

The toilet was the last to go. As careful as I was I think I cracked the top of the black water tank when I yanked on the toilet flange. Duh. It must be ABS, which is easily repaired and re-enforced. Gosh the toilet is light, It doesn't even weigh but a pound or two.

Yes, I call the 5th pic "The Thinker" Ah, yes: Love that openness.

Next will be the deck, got to remove the carpets first, then floor covering.

I bet the deck is attached with "Tec" screws. I have a hand grinder if they don't come off.

TIP OF THE DAY: Make your own magnetic picker-upper to pick up all the screws that didn't make it into the bucket or box. Harber Frite
occasionally has the "Tool Holder" magnet for FREE! About 15" long, I got 4 of em. Mount 'em on a board with a stick for a handle, Put Blue masking tape or thin plastic on 'em so you can release what you pick up and sweep the area! (The clear plastic shell they are sold in works good too if you open it up carefully.)

I also fashioned a tool to pry out staples without damaging the aluminum skin. Used Harber Frite pry bars, the one's with a handle. I took the high speed grinder to 'em to fashon 'em into a sort of claw, and they work great, pic to come.

Ok, now the slide show:

holmzie N2EXG

**Sunline Fan** · 08-24-2018, 08:42 AM

Looks like you're making great progress! Hopefully the rest of the decking isn't difficult to remove, given the rot and the likelihood of many of the screws being rusty.

mainah · 08-24-2018, 08:42 AM

Look at it this way you now have a trailer to take the remains to the dump.

holmzie · 08-25-2018, 10:50 AM

Hey Sunline fan, Hey mainah,

Either I found 3 more ants nests, or they travel real fast. I keep my Spectracide handy like a .38 by my side, ready to fire.

Well, there's no way I'm-a-gonna ge down on my back and crawl around on the nails screws n bugs under the trailer. And none of the screws would un-screw anyway. I eventually learned where the bolts are, after half-uncovered both tanks, learned how they are held up...by cleats attached to the wood floor framing Soon after, I figured out how to drop the tanks straight down just by locating a 1" parameter around them and carefully sawzal the deck and fraiming, BINGO! Faster than taking a metal cutting blade and horizontally cutting the screws holding the tank cleats to the wood deck framing, And I cut the deck frame bolts that way too.

Heres a fue more pics The first one is the tool I fashioned out of Harber fright pry-bars, with a little help and a steady hand with a thin metal cut-off blade from a high speed grinder. I also use these to pull up wall to wall carpet, etc.

The last pic: I discovered I was under surveillance by 3 four legged fellows, I barely caught two on camera in the neighbor's yard.

holmzie N2EXG

UNIXdude · 08-25-2018, 10:56 AM

So, it looks like you’re almost done with the tear down, when does the construction start? What’s the latest revision on your plans, now that you have a better idea of what you have to work with?

holmzie · 08-26-2018, 05:37 PM

Hey thir UNIXdude: Glad ur following...Yesterday I removed the rest of the decking and the grey tank, then I kicked but today rewiring reminiscences of wire together with wire nuts and a trailer lighting package to make a make shift legal road worthy flat bed trailer to pick up the tower. Only took 2 or so pics, will post later 2nite.

Best!
holmzie N2EXG

**Sunline Fan** · 08-27-2018, 10:09 AM

Looking good! Are you making plans to paint or powder coat the frame?

holmzie · 08-27-2018, 09:06 PM

Last Question, answered 1st, Sunline Fan, the rear most right wing extensions is 50% rusted, and two or three others are not far behind. Would have to grind off, replace or reinforce. I do have a solution to apply to the most pitted areas of the frame, some sections still has the original paint I could use Rustolium's "Rust Resolver", or a chemical chelation solution, or just squirt a mist of good old OIL on 'er every once and so often. Painting would be nice. I will have to stop the progression of corrosion one way or another.

NOT going to powder coat a 28 yr old frame. Can't do that or "Hot Dip Galvanize" it without serious per-treatment intervention. I ain't gonna live long enough to make it worth while anyway. Oil, or spray lithium grease works wonders.

Manah, Loaded up my new Flat-bed with trailer debris,(sniff!) and gonna go to Mazza's tomorrow, just the wood 'n stuff.

The bolts holding down the floor frame had some serious deterioration. Diameter on some corroded to about 1/3. The wood never dried out. This trailer was stored out under a canopy of trees, and was neglected. Undergrowth overcame the bottom, and it was up on concrete blocks, so critters and ants had free reign.

Continued....

holmzie · 08-27-2018, 09:08 PM

The floor: Covered with carpet, and in some places plywood...when removed the over-cover, revealed a regular series of 3/8" holes drilled about 8" apart, from one end to the other and side to side. It was obvious that someone played "exterminator" in an attempt to rid the ants, rodents, crickets, and other live life inhabiting the floor, walls and interior of the structure. Check the section of floor covering in one of the pics.

The crazed driller perforated the gray water tank, which may of attracted even more visitors (on her final voyage?) to the underside of the sink and other areas.

Hey UNIXdude, Not sure of any plans yet, but once I dump the debris off, and mount the TRAILER winch on the left side temporarily, I will drive to the tower. Then the plan is to position the trailer PARALLEL to the left of the tower, winch the tower to the trailer broadside, and it should/will flip over 120 degrees over the tires, and land on the timbers laid across the trailer so as to have the TOWER's winch safely facing up. Then I will center the tower (left and right) on the trailer. Presently the tower is sitting horizontally, supported about 30" high on a pair of tree-trunks cut from my property.

The tower will hang off 8' from the rear of the trailer. I have flags. I have a license plate (cough!) I have numerous straps. No Problem.

That's enough for now. Time for sleep

Best to all,
holmzie N2EXG

**Sunline Fan** · 08-28-2018, 09:34 AM

Interesting- never seen anyone try to exterminate bugs like that before. Tearing it apart and rebuilding, after getting rid of the rotten wood that was their home in the first place, would have been the better way to go.

You could have quite a huge bonfire with all that wood!

holmzie · 08-28-2018, 05:52 PM

Yep!. But bonfires arn't allowed in Farmingdale (Howell) NJ. Not unless your a member of the Sqauankum/Farmindale Fire unit. It's amazing how close/far from rural/farming comunities we are.

More to come...

holmzie · 08-28-2018, 06:02 PM

"Foithermore", Yah, SunlineFan, I get the impression the dad may of tried to save the trailer, or perhaps a friend or his son. It was a gallant effort , drilling at least a hundred holes and injecting bug killer. It is tough, and so is the back story...

h.

**Sunline Fan** · 08-29-2018, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by holmzie

Yep!. But bonfires arn't allowed in Farmingdale (Howell) NJ. Not unless your a member of the Sqauankum/Farmindale Fire unit. It's amazing how close/far from rural/farming comunities we are.

More to come...

Hmm, interesting.

I was actually almost in Farmingdale about ten years ago, taking delivery of my '07 Sunline in Wall Township. What is now Automotive Avenues at Asbury Road and NJ-34, used to be All American RVs and mobility vehicles. They were a very small dealer, but a new Sunline dealer nonetheless.