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Old 10-19-2007, 08:08 PM   #1
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Pete Csanky
Towing a T-1950

Hi folks! We have just purchased our FIRST ever RV, a mint 2006 Sunline T-1950. We will pick it up in PA in a couple of weeks. Pardon our ignorance, but we don't know much about what is needed to tow our new baby. The Ford Sport Trac that we own does not have a tow hitch, so all I was able to figure out on my own so far is that I need a Class III tow bracket to be added on to the truck. Is this correct? Any more info so that we don't show up down in PA (we're up here in Ontario, Canada) and get the DUH look from the RV dealership. I understand that the T-1950 has a 7-pin plug - I have looked at the plug wiring on this site and understand it fine, but the T-1950 brochure doesn't mention anything about what you need to have mechanically in order to tow it. I guess they figure everyone knew, LOL.
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Old 10-19-2007, 09:23 PM   #2
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Old 10-20-2007, 09:05 AM   #3
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Hi Pete,

Congratulations on your new 1950 and welcome to the club. This is a great place to get any of your questions answered. A great bunch of very knowledgeable members here.

To answer your questions:

For you truck, youíre correct a Class III or IV hitch receiver is what you need. I would recommend either Reese or Draw-Tite hitches.
The other stuff you need:
Hitch Ė you want a weight distribution (WD) with sway control. Youíll also need the shank and ball. I would recommend the Reese Strait-Line, this kit should include the Trunnion or Round Bar Weight Distribution bars with the Dual Cam Sway Control and the Shank.
Brake Controller Ė I would recommend a proportional based braking system over a time based on. The Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller is a very good one.
Wiring Harness Ė If your truck doesnít already have the wiring harness pre-wired, you will need to get this done. This provides the wring from your tow vehicle to the trailer to run the trailerís lights and brakes.

The above 3 things can be purchased from and installed by your dealer when you pick up your trailer. I would strongly recommend that you have the hitch installed by your dealer, because the height of the ball and the pitch angle of the ball needs to be set up properly for your tow vehicle and trailer.

The other thing for towing is a good set of mirrors, if your truck doesnít currently have tow mirrors. I would recommend the McKesh mirrors. Iíve used them in the past and their excellent.

These things should get you set for towing. Then thereís all the other things to get you set for camping. Thatís a whole other list, like.
Water supplies, such as hoses, pressure regulator, elbows, etc.
Sewer supplies, such as hoses, connectors, donuts, etc.
Electrical supplies, such as adaptors, extension cords, etc.
And then the camping stuff, such as chairs, grills, etc.

Hope this helps.
Enjoy and have fun.
Hutch
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Old 10-20-2007, 01:23 PM   #4
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Old 10-20-2007, 06:46 PM   #5
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We had a 1950 up until last fall. We pulled it with our 97 F-150 with a Reese dual cam WD system and the Prodigy brake controller. Before the Prodigy we had a time based device-the Prodigy is worlds better. We also have the McKesh mirrors. They work ok, and are easy to get on and off, but the one on the left never stays where I set it (I have carefully adjusted and then tightened the screws, to no avail). These are the only towing mirrors I have ever used, so I don't know how they compare to others.
Good luck and enjoy your new TT!
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Old 10-20-2007, 08:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunline Fan
Hutch, what are donuts? I've never heard of those before with sewer stuff. I can't imagine you'd want to eat when you dump your tanks, though!
It's actual name is a sewer seal, I've just gotten in the habit of calling them donuts .
Sorry for the confusion (or the bad image )
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Old 10-20-2007, 08:39 PM   #7
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Now I know what you're getting at. I haven't used those though. I always use the elbow that goes right into the ground.

Jon
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Old 10-20-2007, 08:48 PM   #8
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Thanks folks VERY much for the wealth of info on towing our new T-1950. I checked out the electrical connector on the Ford Sport Trac today and it is a four pin type, so I will now get the Tekonsha Prodigy and adapter cables. That's also a great suggestion about having the dealer get involved with matching up the hitch. We love the new Sunline - the quality is superb and reminds us of our C&C sailboat. The dealer is Cavalier Coach RV Inc. in western PA - does anyone have any comments re their service?
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Old 10-20-2007, 09:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Csanky
adapter cables
Pete,

There are no adapter cables to convert the 7 way to a 4 way. They have an adapter for a 4 way on a trailer to a 7 way on the tow vehicle (TV), but not the opposite. I would recommend you have the dealer take care of installing this plug because it might involve tapping into some very critical electrical lines that are probably quite hidden.

Jon
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Old 10-21-2007, 02:47 PM   #10
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A quick word on the prodigy. I just switched from a time-based hayes to a proportional (inertia) based Prodigy. It is well worth the minimal difference in price.

Hutch - I am also curious about your experience with the towing mirror. When you say it did not stay in place, what exactly happened? I would like to add towing mirrors but do not like the inexpensive clip-ons as they vibrate too much.

Thanks,
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Old 10-22-2007, 07:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by partimcmpr
Hutch - I am also curious about your experience with the towing mirror. When you say it did not stay in place, what exactly happened? I would like to add towing mirrors but do not like the inexpensive clip-ons as they vibrate too much.
David,

It wasn't me that mentioned about the mirrors not satying in place.
It was Chuck & Lori
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck & lori
We also have the McKesh mirrors. They work ok, and are easy to get on and off, but the one on the left never stays where I set it (I have carefully adjusted and then tightened the screws, to no avail).
I never had a problem with mine and was very happy with them. Very little vibration with the McKesh mirror, so little that it didnít impact visibility at all. Itís almost impossible to eliminate vibration completely on removable mirrors. I found the McKesh mirrors to have the least amount of vibration out of any removable mirrors and they were very easy to put on and take off.

There are a couple of screws on the bottom of the mirror that you can loosen to make it easier to adjust or tighten to secure them in place. It sounds like Chuck & Lori had a problem with these screws not stabilizing the mirror enough.

Hutch
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Old 10-22-2007, 03:36 PM   #12
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OK< I'm gonna add a little (I think). It appears to me that the Sport Trac does NOT have a factory installed tow package, so these items should be added. I'm not real sure of what all needs to be added, but I do know you NEED/must have a transmission cooler. What else is needed, well, the guys need to chime in here on that. Your Sport Trac is gonna be working pretty hard towing the 1950, so every ounce of safety is advisable.

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Old 10-22-2007, 08:37 PM   #13
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Tow ratings & electrical connection

I'm as new as they come here... but not new to towing. Let me chime in here. This is only my opinion... ... and I'm in the same boat you're in with a T1950.

Do you want to "get by"? Or do you want to go really have fun and feel safer doing it?

Here's where I'm coming from: I've towed different trailers and fifth wheels thousands of miles... and currently, for work, I tow a 6,500 pound 8x18' cargo trailer. And yeah - I weigh it once in a while just for fun I have a Navigator with a 5.4 that is rated to tow about 8,500 pounds... and even with only towing about 75% of what it's rated for... I'm here to tell you that it would SUCK to pull anything heavier. I'm in Colorado and I stay down "in the flats" (which aren't very flat!) - and my work trailer only goes on short jaunts - usually under 40 miles one way - and on seldom occasions I've taken it 100. And only one trip was farther than that when we worked the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally in 2004. So for that type of use, my rig is fine (and it looks great!). But I have no desire to go on any long hauls again.

The Navigator doesn't need any of the weight distribution or sway control stuff ... the hind end pumps up to accomodate the trailer weight, and I've never had a wiggle (even in the strong winds we get here) since I got heavier sidewall tires put on the Navigator. (original tires I started out with were waaaaaay too squishy and caused some sway/wiggle in bad conditions (wind or winding roads).

Oh... sideline... one time, just for kicks and grins, my son & I hooked up my 6,500 trailer to his Powerstroke just so we could take it to this big-ass hill here to see how it did pulling the trailer up it. (we were both curious) The end result: the power was incredible... but the trailer was wiggling all over the place so I didn't feel safe taking it to 75 mph. We argued about the wiggle.. and I made my case for "squishy tires" being the problem because the trailer hasn't been wiggling -even in the slightest - for me. Anyway... when we got home, in my ever-so-motherly way [grin] I made him check the air pressure in his oversized tires and they were terribly low, given we were towing. So... I rest my case about "squishy tires" being a big problem when it comes to tow wiggle.

So. Think about your tires, too, now that I mentioned it. Make sure the "load range" is more than adequate for your use. Going super heavy duty on mine made a world of difference. No white knuckles here. I'm absolutely relaxed towing my trailer now because it feels rock solid - other than being literally weighed down, it's like the trailer isn't on as far as stability goes ... but the first year (with squishier tires) wasn't as nice.

The downside... the Nav doesn't ride like a soccer-mom car. It's a little rougher with the heavier rated sidewalls and I drive with air pressure on the higher side. That takes out some of the "cush".

Back to pulling: Even with the 6,500 pounds, I won't go up the mountains with the Nav ... just not worth the gas mileage (about 4 mpg going up) and the slow grunt to get up them... and more importantly, it's not worth burning up the brakes coming down. IMO, the bigger concern is coming down the hills than going up. I have a standing "deal" with my son that if I need to take my current trailer "over the bump", I'm borrowing his Powerstroke.

Now.. if you're planning on staying close to home and you live in the flat lands, you will probably be a happy camper. Otherwise... The point is... before you spend big bucks on getting your truck outfitted to tow your new trailer - I'd consider exploring other options. At the very least, I would dig deep into Google and find other people's experiences in pulling similar weight trailers with a Sport Trac.

I'm in the process of buying a T1950 as well.... and honestly... I was trying to stay under 3,000 dry pounds for a trailer knowing what I know about what it takes to pull these things (and go back down mountains) comfortably. I'm still planning on using my Navigator - but I wanna just go have fun... and I don't want the time towing to feel like work. I wanna fly.

But even with that being said... I'm starting to troll around looking for a $15,000 used Powerstroke 7.3 to make trotting long distances fun - and more affordable with the Sunline.

My Navigator gets 7 - 8 mpg tops - when towing 6,500 pounds. Maybe I'll get closer to 9 or 10 mpg with the Sunline on... but a diesel will get closer to 15 mpg towing something this light. The hope of 50% better mileage with fuel at $3 a gallon does matter - for me, anyway.

I'm entertaining the idea of a 3,000 mile drive just to go get my Sunline... so the difference between buying 200 gallons of fuel for just that trip alone instead of 300 is a nice start to helping pay for the truck.

The max towing weights that are on vehicles specs (IMO) are just that - the max. I wouldn't ever want to max out my vehicle... because there is a big difference between max and what is a joy to drive - IMO.

The T1950 in reality weighs in at almost 4,000 pounds before you even put your first can of beer.... err.... soda... on board. This means that after just propane and water (unless you make a big effort to travel as dry as possible), you're going to be looking at about 4,500 pounds. By the time the kitchen gear, food, etc (and fine wine, hoola hoops, fishing gear, and ipods) get added... you can see it is quite feasible that the total weight is going to get closer to 5,000 pounds than 4,000.

As my son even says about me pulling my work trailer - "You're expecting alot out of that poor Navigator, Mom!" (says the kid with a Powerstroke!)

I'm hoping you don't take any of this harshly... nor sense any arrogance from me. I'm driving a 1998 Nav... got it for $13,000 in 2004. Nice looking and beefy enough for what I do... but I try to be careful with money, too. I just want to share my experience with you. For me, I wouldn't want to pull a 5,000 pound trailer with a vehicle that is rated with any less than about a 7,000 pound towing capacity unless I was staying close to home in a flat area.

And... even then.... make sure you have killer tires on your truck to avoid wiggle.



Happy trails... and congrats on getting your T1950.

Sally
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Old 10-22-2007, 09:22 PM   #14
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Old 10-22-2007, 10:44 PM   #15
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Navigators...

Yeah... don't even get me started about the leather! My driver seat looked pretty rough when I bought it.. and I've been on the hunt for new front seats now for the last year. It's not the biggest issue in my life... if you get my drift.... so let's just say this is a "work truck" for me and for the money I've got into it, I'm OK.

That said... I think the newer ones look awful.

I'm happy with the truck for towing the work trailer... it does fine... but I guess I've been around diesel trucks too much. The idea of having the same trailer on a vehicle that hardly knows it's there is just so appealing to me.

The Nav has been super... except mine (like many in the '97-'02 era) ejected a spark plug out of it's head this summer. ka-POW! That was a bummer. I had about 7 days left of the extended warranty I bought... and when it blew... I was really almost dancing thinking I was going to get a new motor... only to find out it was just a stinkin' plug and I couldn't even score new heads out of the deal. Oh well....

My son and one of his friends have been joking around with me for the past 6 months or so - wanting me to keep this one (when I get a newer truck sometime soon) and they want to try to get a diesel into it.

Now.. that would kick butt. The Navigator is very nice... but it would be a total kick ass tow vehicle if it had a diesel under the hood.

Stay tuned... we might try it.

About the tires... without going to go look... there might have been load range "C" on the truck when I got it... and now they are "E"s... or something like that. The first ones were rated to be appropriate for what I was doing (with 6,500 lbs), but I got a deal on some very slightly used tired when I was needing them (I think I paid $300 for all 4)... and they happened to be rated heavier. It was a total bonus deal - and quite a surprise in how well the trailer handled.

Before swapping the tires, I was playing all sorts of games with trying to get more weight to the front, etc... and nothing worked. There was a definite wiggle - even when going from a relatively hard left curve to a hard right curve at highway speeds through Denver road construction, for example. The shifting of weight from left to right (or vice versa) would cause a momentary wiggle. Since the new tires - no more.

I also have mine pumped to something like 55 psi instead of the high 30's that is recommended for the soccer moms.

So... with all of that said... I'm anxious to see if I have to mess with sway bars, etc. for a travel trailer.

About getting your hind end...err... I mean your Nav's hind end... [grin] to pump up... yeah... that is a real issue. The problem lies in taking the pressure off of your truck - I'm guessing you may have stablized-jacked your trailer while hooked up - which lifted the back end of your truck and took the weight off of it.

Been there, done that, too. It only takes a short time for the thing to deflate and you find your rear wheels half way up into their fenders. LOL

When I first got my trailer (the work one - it's a mobile store of sorts) I was all jazzed to make things perfect for when people came into it - so I jacked the trailer when I was at an event for a few hours to stabilize it (without taking it off the Nav). And yeah... when I was done for the evening and getting ready to leave - I retracted the trailer jack (I have power one on the front of mine)... and the chains for the trailer were laying all over on the ground (very low) and I didn't know that my tires could disappear that far up into the fenders! LOL ... and it took it about 30 minutes to get it's act together and pump itself back up. I never bother stabilizing the trailer since then. (besides.. doing the scissor jacks on my trailer is almost impossible on the curb side - it's a real knuckle buster cranking them with a sidewalk in the way) I thought about getting an impact wrench-thingie to spin those scissor jacks up... but bailed on that idea because it's just one step to setting up that is just not necessary. Short of people dancing around in the trailer (which does happen from time to time! LOL) , it doesn't jiggle much with customers in it.

Last thought on this... did you know there is a switch (I think it's in the glove box or under it) that disengages the leveling pump system? When you take the car in to get tires, for instance, they are supposed to flip that switch to avoid damaging that system before lifting the car off it's wheels. One time, when I left the tire shop, I had some sort of warning about the suspension system light up on the dash... so I circled back to the tire shop and that is when one of the guys came out and told me about the switch - they had forgotten to flip it back to normal after the service.

More than a girl should have to know.... .....


Sally
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Old 10-25-2007, 03:56 PM   #16
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I had a pair of McKesh towing mirrors that I used when we towed our T-2053 with my 2000 Jeep Cherokee. They were, in my opinion, a good product. But as far as a really good mirror factory towing mirrors are the best. My 2500 Diesel Ram only came with the short mirrors from the factory, but I went onto E-Bay and bought a set of the extending factory ones for about $250-$300. Partimcmpr you could easily find a set of tow mirrors for your 2500 Chevy on E-Bay. They are well worth the money.
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Old 10-25-2007, 06:24 PM   #17
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A 2006 ford Expedition

is our tow vehicle for our T-1950. The Expedition is rated to tow 8600 pounds and has no problem pulling the Sunline over hill and dale. Mileage ranges from 10-14 MPG depending on whether we are crossing mountains or on flat land. We shopped for several months for a tow vehicle and bought this one used with 13,000 miles and factory warranty and saved a bundle over buying a new one.
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Old 10-25-2007, 08:03 PM   #18
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EBAY - Why didn't I think of that. I found a set that would be perfect. My 2500hd is a work truck. Translation - power nothing! I found a set of manual mirrors that should work great. I am going to look a little more and then make a move on the best deal I find.

Thanks!

David
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Old 10-26-2007, 02:57 PM   #19
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David,
My last Ram was power everything, even had heated power mirrors, but they didn't make a new style power towing mirror to fit the old style door. So I just put on the new non-power tow mirrors and let it go. They were relitively easy to install, the hardest part was getting the door panel pulled away enough to make the swap. Seeing around your trailer makes for a much more relaxing towing experience. My buddy, who is buying my old Ram, swapped out the factory installed tow mirrors on his 2003 1500 for the tow mirrors. I'll check to see if they will fit your truck, because he is going to put the old ones back on when he sells it. If you are interested I'm sure he would sell them decently cheap.
Lowell
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Old 10-26-2007, 03:04 PM   #20
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I just looked on E-bay and found a set of mirrors that claimed to fit Silverado pick-ups from 1999 to 2007. But others that were from 1999-2004.
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