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Old 08-07-2013, 04:06 PM   #1
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sunline roofs

I see now some sunline roofs were aluminum. And some were rubber. Does anyone know what the 1987 1550 Saturns roof was made of ? Am I correct that if its rubber it is definitely not strong enough for a person to walk on it? Or haul a canoe on it?
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:37 PM   #2
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No, all Sunline trailers didn't have rubber roofs. I have a 1983 T-1550 and it has aluminum roof. I'm not sure what year the change and/or if all models. It should be easy to tell by looking at it though. in any event you can't just "walk" on your roof without laying down plywood (aluminum roof) and carpet with plywood (rubber roof). The carpet is to protect the rubber and the plywood is to distribute your load over more than one roof/ceiling joist. The carpet strip is a good idea for both roof systems as plywood can slide and the carpet serves a duel purpose.

Others will be able to tell you exactly what roof you have. I'd guess aluminum, however 1987 may be new enough for the material/s change.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:39 PM   #3
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Do you have an air conditioner on your unit? If so it will be pretty much dead center and about 12" high. There are points built into and in some cases pre-wired for accessories. These places are labeled on the ceiling. A/C and antenna mounts are 2 I know on my 1983 T-1550. These are reinforced for such mounting.

I would think you would have to apply the same to any roof rack mounting points, as well as be high enough to clear A/C or vents if mounted off center. I think it could be done. It would want to be done well from a mechanical and safety point of view. It requires opening up the ceiling and/or the roof.

How long is your canoe? Is it longer than your trailer? How much does it weigh?

Does anyone have another solution?......other than mounting on TV.

Oh quiz question: How far up and distance back, in feet units of measure will a 16' Lincoln fiberglass canoe go launched (albeit reluctantly) from a 9' platform at 60 mph?

I have been giving this "some....not a lot thought". You may be able to create a cradle rather than a permanent mount for the canoe, esp. the cradle could be on a plywood base with carpet distributing the load. If the canoe cantilevers each end of the trailer front to back you may be able to lash the ends to the frame and bumper with guy roles. The side edges of the roof or near top side walls where the walls and roof meet have wood framing members. This could possibly be a place to attach eye/ring screws. You need to clear the galley vent (3" height maybe?) or A/C if present.

Sunlinefan as well as some other good knowledgeable members can help with this.

My experience is with Coleman Polypropylene 15' canoe mounted to 1st my International Scout II and later to a couple Toyota Tacoma single cabs. In all cases the canoe and the vehicles were the same 15' length. The Coleman kit was very simple yet worked very well. Simple foam sleeves on rail of canoe pressing down on roof of vehicle, gutter mount (remember those days of gutters on cars) straps over midsection of canoe and straps tying each end down to the front and rear bumper. I had this stuff set up so I could load that canoe in well under a few minutes.

That brings up the question of how are you planning of lifting you canoe up 8 to 10 feet.
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Old 08-07-2013, 06:57 PM   #4
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I would be very (very) reluctant to even consider hauling a canoe atop my Sunline, or any travel trailer, for that matter. You'll surely lose it if you just strap it down. If you get a reliable rack system you'll destroy the integrity of the roof mounting it & it's likely to pull out @ hwy speeds w/o a very sturdy roof & some system under roof to disburse the stress
Other considerations:
unless you've very adjustable mirrors, you won't likely be able to see it up there.
You'll need a ladder, great balance, & lotsa upper body strength to hoist your canoe up there & get it down again.
gas mileage will suffer despite towing.
insurance liability will skyrocket
I've hauled my trailer & canoe (atop my TV) cross country & return each of last 4 yrs but would sadly leave it behind (or consider renting @ my destination long before thinking about hauling it on trailer
Is there a reason you can't carry canoe on your TV ?
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GKLarson View Post
I would be very (very) reluctant to even consider hauling a canoe atop my Sunline, or any travel trailer, for that matter. You'll surely lose it if you just strap it down. If you get a reliable rack system you'll destroy the integrity of the roof mounting it & it's likely to pull out @ hwy speeds w/o a very sturdy roof & some system under roof to disburse the stress
Other considerations:
unless you've very adjustable mirrors, you won't likely be able to see it up there.
You'll need a ladder, great balance, & lotsa upper body strength to hoist your canoe up there & get it down again.
gas mileage will suffer despite towing.
insurance liability will skyrocket
I've hauled my trailer & canoe (atop my TV) cross country & return each of last 4 yrs but would sadly leave it behind (or consider renting @ my destination long before thinking about hauling it on trailer
Is there a reason you can't carry canoe on your TV ?
I agree with you 110 0/0. I think "I could do it", yet I would never put it to the test. It is just a fanciful laboratory experiment in my opinion.

As you pointed out, it is all negatives and I can't think of any positives.
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:05 PM   #6
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The canoe was just a thought. I was mainly worried if the trailer i'm getting has a rubber roof or not. the canoe is 16 ft long . the camper body I believe 13 ft. Its Too long in truck bed with a trailer attached. Im not going to attempt it. I've seen quite a few campers going down the road with kayaks and canoes on top. But probably stronger roofs. How I was planning on getting it up is with a slide out bar from inside the boat rack. You pull it out a few feet to the side of the camper and then just lift one end of the canoe on the bar with the other on the ground . Then you go back and lift up the back end and put it on the camper. Then slide the front resting on the side bar over.
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:46 PM   #7
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Sunline used aluminum roofs up through the mid-'90s. Rubber roofs were introduced in the early '90s on trailers over 24' long. I do know everything under 22' (T-2251 and smaller) in 1994 and older used aluminum. I'm not sure about 1995/96 1550s.

The '87 you mention will definitely have an aluminum.
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:00 PM   #8
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Jon,
Been waiting for your reply. Time line would have been my guess, maybe early 90's, but just a very uneducated one. Also, not knowing the price point of the models new, wouldn't have had a clue as to length having impact on aluminum versus rubber other then in aluminum I would suspect more seams/joints/lapping roof edges=labor cost=higher consumer cost.
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Jon,
Been waiting for your reply. Time line would have been my guess, maybe early 90's, but just a very uneducated one. Also, not knowing the price point of the models new, wouldn't have had a clue as to length having impact on aluminum versus rubber other then in aluminum I would suspect more seams/joints/lapping roof edges=labor cost=higher consumer cost.
Interestingly, I think rubber was more expensive to install. Perhaps because it was a new product with many unknowns. That's because in the case of '92-'94, the 22'-23' breakpoint was also the breakpoint of the Saturn/Solaris change. At that time, Saturn models were actually pretty stripped down option wise, and then the Solaris' were very well equipped. It's interesting that you couldn't get a stripped down 24' trailer at the time, nor could you get a decked out 2251 or 1550.

Also, in 1994, the price breakpoint between the 2251 (longest Saturn) and the 2362 (shortest Solaris) was at about $15,000.
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:13 PM   #10
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I would expect the rubber to be more costly for the manufacturer to purchase than the aluminum, however I would have guessed it faster to install thus the labor difference would offset it. I can see how the marketing department would play up the rubber as "new and improved" making the retail cost more. Just speculation here on my end.

The unknown certainly is a good point.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:26 AM   #11
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I am very glad to hear the one i'm getting does not have a rubber roof. From the camping world post it had about scared me off of getting it.
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Old 08-09-2013, 07:47 AM   #12
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My 1990 T1700 has an aluminum roof and I agree putting any kind of frame work on it or a canoe is not a great ideal. I replaced the roof vent on mine and used a sheet of plywood lay across it won't stand walking on just not strong enough.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:43 AM   #13
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As far as the rubber roof goes. I believe about all manufactures used rubber on their roofs for awhile. My Jayco had rubber, my sons Keystone Cougar had rubber.
As with a mobile home roof you still have to maintain a metal roof. Every few years you should recoat it. Especially seams and edges
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