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Old 07-20-2016, 07:21 AM   #1
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Roof repair opinions

Hello everyone,

This is my first camper. I need some advise on some roof repairs. I have Dicor lap sealant and some butal tape for repairs. I also need new vent covers and one new complete vent. Also. The metal on my roof is pretty wavy. Not sure if that is a problem or what. I will attach pics on this thread. I still can't figure out how to post more than one pic. I could make an album. But not sure how to link it here either. Thanks

This pic is of my wavy roof. The pine needles are the low spots. Water does stand in them.
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Old 07-20-2016, 07:23 AM   #2
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Do I just put lap sealant on this cracked old caulking?
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Old 07-20-2016, 07:24 AM   #3
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And new sealant over these cracks in old corner caulking?
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Old 07-20-2016, 07:43 AM   #4
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I would use two types of lap sealant. For the horizontal roof seams I'd use Dicor self leveling. for the vertical I'd use Dicor Non self leveling sealant.

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Old 07-20-2016, 09:22 AM   #5
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I agree with Jim. Clean out the cracks first along with the surface area around the cracks for best adhesion of the new caulk. In some cases, you might want to actually enlarge the crack with a knife before caulking.

In extreme case, consider removing much of the old caulk first. I'd do that on that side edge seam but not the horizontal ones. Applying new caulk to clean, bare metal is a good thing. When caulking with the Self Leveling Dicor, caulk over the existing stuff completely, extending a bit onto the metal on all sides. That way, you not only repair the crack, but you also seal the edges of what is already there.

When replacing entire vents, remove the old vent and clean down to bare metal. I'd clean at least 2 inches from the opening in all directions. Check the 2x2 wood framing of the opening for rot or other problems, and repair as necessary. Clean all contacting surfaces on the roof and the vent. Use butyl putty tape or butyl caulk in the same manner as on the the original vent. Tighten down securely. Do this on a warm day or keep things warm with a hair dryer. Make sure you get a bit of the caulk squeezed out of the joint all the way around. That helps to insure a 100% seal. The apply Dicor Self Leveling over the joint.

If you have an actual tear in the roof metal, clean first, then apply Eternabond tape. Extend the tape an inch or more beyond the tear in all directions, maybe 2" at the ends. Caulk the edges of the tape with Dicor Self Leveling.

Metal roofs are somewhat wavy on older trailers. If there's no evidence of water penetration, I'd move on to other things.

I noticed that your roof has been painted with mobile home roof paint. That's not a bad thing for older trailers, but as it ages, it will flake off. Be sure to completely remove the paint in the area you'll be working on before any repairs. If you caulk to the paint, sooner or later, it will just peel away.
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:54 AM   #6
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Is it best to just replace the complete light and reseal with tape? Or Dicor?
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:57 AM   #7
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Also. I have an old TV antenna and one for the radio. I will not be using either one. Is it best to leave them and reseal them? Or remove them and seal the holes?
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:07 AM   #8
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Thanks for the great advice Steve! Much appreciated.

What about that primer for the Dicor sealant? I have scene it for sale. Is it just a Slovent of sorts to remove grease and oil? Worth the money? What about something like an automotive paint cleaner? Like Prepsol?
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:20 AM   #9
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Attachment 3755Okay. See the rain gutter? See the window? See my cargo door? Bad things man. The water coming from the gutter just pours down the top of the window and then near the cargo door. Can I reseal the top edges of Windows with non leveling Dicor? I can't get the picture to go upright for me. Sorry

You can see in the next pic. The floor is damaged due to this issue Attachment 3755
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:21 AM   #10
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Floor damage from gutter I think. I may try to extend the gutter to shed water away.
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:54 AM   #11
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I realize most of these questions have been addressed on the site many times over.I do try and search for answers before I ask. I do find it hard to find exactly what I am looking for. This site is kind of hard to navigate. Thank you very much to the folks who have responded.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:00 AM   #12
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Okay So is my roof just aluminum? no rubber or anything? Just metal, the trusses, insulation then the plywood on inside? Anyone have pics of the trusses they used on a 1990 StarRay line of campers?
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naterade77 View Post
Is it best to just replace the complete light and reseal with tape? Or Dicor?


Putty tape, same as original. I'd replace the whole fixture, same style but LED.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:10 AM   #14
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Thanks for the great advice Steve! Much appreciated.

What about that primer for the Dicor sealant? I have scene it for sale. Is it just a Slovent of sorts to remove grease and oil? Worth the money? What about something like an automotive paint cleaner? Like Prepsol?


I'd wash with 409 or similar. Then degrease. And final wipe with rubbing alcohol. I don't see the need for primer before caulk.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:12 AM   #15
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Attachment 3755Okay. See the rain gutter? See the window? See my cargo door? Bad things man. The water coming from the gutter just pours down the top of the window and then near the cargo door. Can I reseal the top edges of Windows with non leveling Dicor? I can't get the picture to go upright for me. Sorry



You can see in the next pic. The floor is damaged due to this issue Attachment 3755


Loosen up the edge of window and remove some of old caulk. Butyl caulk before tightening.

Plastic gutter extenders are sold at RV parts places. Cheap and effective
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:15 AM   #16
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Roof repair opinions

Quote:
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Okay So is my roof just aluminum? no rubber or anything? Just metal, the trusses, insulation then the plywood on inside? Anyone have pics of the trusses they used on a 1990 StarRay line of campers?


Don't guess on roof material. Use a magnet to check; it may be steel. If steel, you'll probably want to paint it to prevent rust through. Mobile home roof paint is good.

You will be able to determine roof construction when you replace the vent.

Rubber roofs came in late '90s.
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Old 07-21-2016, 05:29 AM   #17
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Thanks agian for the help. I stopped in at a local RV place yesterday. I bought some non leveling dicor and gutter extentions. They were out of reguler vents though. All they had was one with a fan. There one other store near me I will try.

I will check the roof with a magnet. I am pretty confidant it is aluminum though.

It appears my gate/valve for my black water tank is seized up now too. It looks like an after market rig. Its called a "twister" or something. Need to check that out tonight.

this weekends project is to tear out the rotted back wall and carpet in the back bedroom. Alonf with getting access to behind the kitchen and bathroom cabinets. there is a lot of mouse poop in there and I need to run new ducts for furnace also.
it looks like I need to cut access holes in the bathroom cabinets and then remove the range in the kitchen to do so. Fun fun!
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Old 07-23-2016, 07:29 AM   #18
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You may want to look into JB Weld Wood Restore products especially if the rot is not very bad..
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