Welcome Eagle!
And congrats on your new to you sunny! We too came from the tent, then the pop up and then the travel trailer. Yes big difference, but all were nice with many good memories and a few stories....
On your storage situation, I'll offer a few things as we do not know your exact situation.
Tires, ideally get them out of the dirt/grass in a long term (non camping) situation. While we all camp on pads in the CG on grass dirt, that is a short term situation. The tires will hold up better out of the dirt and water that can lay in the treads on the bottom. Back up on a 2 x 8 or some other method to get the tire up off the dirt. Cover the tires with a white tire cover to help slow down the sun damage. Air the tires up to max cold side wall pressure to help hold the weight during temperature changes.
Roof drainage. This is something that one needs to think through and to your direct question. A camper living outside all winter can get infected with water damage by increasing the odds or how water can get into the camper. The gutter system on a camper leaves a lot to be desired. The gutter rails are too small for the water volume and leaves, twigs, maple tree hello-copters can plug them real fast. Once plugged issues can start. The awning lag screws are now under water and odds increase to water getting into the camper roof. The same with the vinyl strip that covers the screws that hold the rail to the roof. Once under water, the heads start rusting faster and over time water wicks into the camper roof...
See here on the this issue
I caught the problem before it advanced to the water infiltration issue.
To show how bad this can get, this is a pic of a buddy of mine on his 2 year old camper where the factory did not caulk the roof correctly and those screws wicked water into the roof. He never saw much of any of this inside other then a wrinkled wall paper. The factory stood behind this. This by the way was not a Sunline.
This type of damage takes time but the older the camper and the owner not knowing how death by water can be, the odds increase if you subject the camper to these beating on the seams water conditions.
I would agree the camper is stored close to level left to right. Across the 8 ft wide direction. This allows the water to shed equal left to right and increase your odds of not overloading one gutter rail to have water sit and soak in it.
Next is do you level the camper front to back or pitch it down and then on which end? This in your case is the 22 ft direction. There are several schools of thought on this. None are fool proof. I'll pass along how I addressed it before the new barn to put the camper in came.
Granted you may not be able to create this same setup quickly however you can create the same outcome in different ways.
I created a crushed stone camper parking pad next to my old workshop. The T310 camper was too long and worse, too high to fit inside. In our area the shed blocked/protected the camper from the south sun which could bake off decals, the awning and most any thing that was not aluminum. The roof overhang helped and so did the gutter on the building protect the awning side of the camper. And I had no trees near by to send "stuff" into the gutters or roof area.
There were 2 x 10's leveled up left to right, gets tires off the ground and creates the more equal water drain off on the roof left to right.
In "my" case, when I unhooked I pitched the camper to the back. Meaning nose high. Did not need a lot of pitch but enough water would run to the back. 1 to 2 inches of nose high would do it. This allowed the gutter rails to drain rather then sit filled or partly filled. My floor plan was more conducive to less damage tipped to the back. If I tipped it to the front, the front top side seams would be subjected to more water trying to beat into those seams up at the roof line transition from roof to front siding. Tipped to the back, the rear roof seam then can possibly be subjected to more water. In my case, I put Eternabond sealing tape over that joint and the odds of a problem where lower then the front side seams. Water flying out of the gutter rails then could fly more off the camper then on the camper if you have the standard gutter setup.
Something else you need to look at is the gutter spouts. Camco sells an extension you can put on them to help get the water away from the camper. And short of getting them, use a spring type clothes pin to wick the water away from the camper. Water coming out of the gutter rail and then plastering the side of the camper beating into side seams, windows or cargo holes has been a very well documented (unfortunately) method of how to infect the camper with water damage.
Here are some pics of that storage setup. Again this may be a more long term thing, for this year just get your tires out of the dirt and deal with the leveling/pitching of the roof.
Something else which is as much if not more important is to check and correct any roof caulking cracks/splits "now" before heading into winter. Splits get bigger over the winter in freeze/thaw situations and once it separates enough it is a hole in the roof system letting water in. Your 95 I think has a rubber roof. This post may help on how to address the caulking. Heads up, odds are high unless you have a special ordered camper, your roof is not a "direct" walk on roof. Need to take precautions for working up there. The link shows this
http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...1-a-11508.html
They also sell AC covers to help keep snow etc out of the AC unit.
I know you may now be in, "oh my goodness" shock...
Had some time to type today and water damage from storing a camper may be one of the biggest issues we face owning a camper. And many new folks to hard sided campers do not even know about the problem. So to help the cause, I typed. Others members have dealt with this storage issue differently and they have good options too. The above was just how I came to grips with it.
The best is, store the camper inside if at all possible. That option is not simple or doable in many cases so the next best is to learn the issues of storing outside and do the best you can to avoid them.
Hope this helps
John