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Old 12-13-2013, 05:44 PM   #1
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New breaker?

Just recently set up our '83 T2400 at a yearly site. We stayed there for two nights just to check everything out, as this is the first time we have used it since I purchased it. I did know prior to leaving that I couldn't get the furnace to fire up so we took along an electric space heater. Also the refrigerator was missing and was replaced with an electric only model.
Everything seems fine with it until it tripped the breaker several times over the next two days. Our shore power is 30 amps, but the breaker is rated for only 15 amps. I'm thinking that maybe the fridge and heater coming on at the same time may have tripped it, but my question is could I replace the breaker with a 30 amp breaker? The wiring, if I'm not mistaken is at least 14 gauge and I feel as if there should be no problem. Anyone have an opinion?
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Old 12-13-2013, 06:35 PM   #2
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The electric heater and the fridge most likely will trip the breaker when the fridge starts. The 15 amp breaker is rated 1800 watts max so is a #14 wire. A 30 amp breaker is 3600 watts as you can see that's twice the amount a #14 can carry so you would have to replace the wiring with a #10 to be safe. Is the electric fridge in place of the gas one? If so run it on and extension cord to the 15 amp outlet on the power pole just plug it in behind the old fridge door out side.
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Old 12-13-2013, 06:45 PM   #3
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Is your heater a full 1500 watt unit or is it a combo 900/600 unit? If a combo you may be able to set the heater on a lower wattage draw and have the fridge also. How many watts is the fridge?

Your control panel only had 1 15 amp breaker? What is your converter rated for? A T2400 would have been 30 amps I would have thought.
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Old 12-14-2013, 07:43 AM   #4
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Is your heater a full 1500 watt unit or is it a combo 900/600 unit? If a combo you may be able to set the heater on a lower wattage draw and have the fridge also. How many watts is the fridge?

Your control panel only had 1 15 amp breaker? What is your converter rated for? A T2400 would have been 30 amps I would have thought.
The converter should not be an issue it is powered directly from the 30 amp power cord it relies on the CG breaker. If he is heating a T2400 it's probably a fairly hefty heater maybe a 1500 watt. The problem arises when the fridge starts it can draw as much as 220% of it's rated wattage for enough time to trip the breaker with the heater running. There is most likely a 15 and a 20 amp breaker 15 for all the outlets and a 20 for the A/C. Breakers are sized for the wires capacity so a #14 is good for 1800 watts max a #12 is good for 2400 watts max. The camper is fed with a #10 wire giving it the capacity of 3600 watts max. If you up size the breaker you run the risk of over heating the wire not a good thing. The easiest way would be to power the fridge from the camp ground power post with an extension cord and leave the 30 amp plugged in or go with a smaller heater. Resistance heating all though very efficient power wise sucks up a lot of watts to give you that heat.
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Old 12-14-2013, 02:07 PM   #5
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Thanks for all the response. I will probably go with a separate line for the fridge. I will later get a more efficient heater unless I can get the gas furnace working again, which I really haven't had a chance to check out thoroughly.
The breaker does have only one 15 amp breaker, which is odd, since the ac feeds from the same box.
The old pop up camper we had, had a combo a/c and heat unit which I thought about swapping out.
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Old 12-14-2013, 07:05 PM   #6
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That is strange, often they they had tandem breakers two breakers the size as one with two handles a 20 and a 15.
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Old 12-14-2013, 07:11 PM   #7
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Unless there is one located in another place, that is all I saw. The breaker box is behind a door located below the closet space where the power cord comes in the camper
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:45 AM   #8
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Can you take a picture of the box? Chances are pretty high that the A/C would not run on a 15 amp breaker assuming it's a roof mounted A/C. If there is not a breaker some one has done some creative wiring and this not not a good ideal because if it is directly wired to the panel it is not protected properly because the #12 wire is now protected by a breaker that is rated 30 amps.
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:03 PM   #9
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I am concerned about whether the wiring in the trailer would handle a 1500 watt heater... I have only one outlet in my trailer that will handle that kind of wattage....it's set out from the wall and is heavy duty.... All by itself the electric fridge would be okay, but not the heater. I know when I plugged in my heater to a regular outlet in my trailer I could smell the insulation on the wiring getting hot. Please don't take any chances. There is a long thread somewhere in the SOC discussing this issue.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:29 PM   #10
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I never run the heater at that high a wattage. It is usually set to the lower wattage setting and the thermostat set low enough to be comfortable. I wouldn't feel safe doing it at that high a wattage either. Hopefully I can get someone to look at my gas furnace soon and use it, or run a dedicated line just for the heater.
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:28 AM   #11
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I am concerned about whether the wiring in the trailer would handle a 1500 watt heater... I have only one outlet in my trailer that will handle that kind of wattage....it's set out from the wall and is heavy duty.... All by itself the electric fridge would be okay, but not the heater. I know when I plugged in my heater to a regular outlet in my trailer I could smell the insulation on the wiring getting hot. Please don't take any chances. There is a long thread somewhere in the SOC discussing this issue.
The outlet you are talking about is a GFI it is 15 amp (1800 watts) it is up stream of the other outlets protecting them from a ground fault. All of the outlets are 15 amp. At 1500 watts that is very little head room for starting a fridge chances are pretty high it will push it over the 1800 watt limit and trip the breaker. If you think you smell hot wiring it needs to be checked by an electrician most likely cause is poor connections not 1500 watts, poor connections are as bad as an overload. The method trailer makers use to install outlets leaves a lot to be desired.
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Old 12-19-2013, 04:27 PM   #12
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Well, come to a conclusion on what to do. There are two breakers, as Mainah said. One for the outlets and one for the a/c. Talking to an electrician, code would allow me to run the a/c line into a junction box and run a separate line and receptacle for the heater. Makes sense, since the a/c would not be running when I need heat. Even if I get the gas furnace running, it would be a good backup.
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:04 PM   #13
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I was waiting to see what you have/had. That is what I would do also. The suggestion of getting additional power from the CG is a good one also.

Pictures really do help. It can show not only the breakers but may also show wire gauge, etc.

A time delay breaker can help handle the surge with some motors, etc. Of course has to be within limits.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:24 PM   #14
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Well, come to a conclusion on what to do. There are two breakers, as Mainah said. One for the outlets and one for the a/c. Talking to an electrician, code would allow me to run the a/c line into a junction box and run a separate line and receptacle for the heater. Makes sense, since the a/c would not be running when I need heat. Even if I get the gas furnace running, it would be a good backup.
Yes that's fine there would be very little chance of you running a heater and the A/C at the same time. There is usually a plate in the camper ceiling that is a junction for the A/C wiring kind of a odd place for an outlet but it would require no extra wiring just the addition of a 20 amp feed through GFI outlet you could then run your heater with a short #14> extension. Generally when I camp in cold weather I warm up the camper with the furnace while I'm awake and then turn on the electric heater over night and keep the furnace heat a 55* I can't sleep through the furnace coming on.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:44 PM   #15
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I had the ceiling off around the a/c while making some repairs. The wire comes straight from the breaker box and feeds into the a/c. I'll probably cut the wire from the breaker to the a/c and run a wire from a junction box to feed the outlet.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:25 AM   #16
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Spent some time at the camper this weekend. Wired in an outlet as I described above. No problems, no breaker trips. Left the a/c disconnected for now, no big hurry on it yet!
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