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Old 10-18-2013, 02:55 AM   #1
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Need some electrical info on 90' 2480

New to all RV thing
Need some info on 1990 Sunline 2480.
What AC unit does it have from the factory? How many amps or watts?
TT came with no plug attached to the main cable. What type of plug should be there?
If I want to connect it to the main panel in my house what gauge cord should I use?
Can somebody scan me an owners manual if possible or have one for sale?
I have no clue what some of the switches do. For example what button is for propane/electric switch?
Thanks a lot
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:07 AM   #2
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It is imperative that the plug be wired correctly. The RV plug is one of a kind it will not plug into anything other than an RV socket for good reason. If you intend to use 30 amps at home it will require the RV outlet and #10 wire. If you are just going to use lights and charge the battery then you can use an adaptor to allow you to plug it into a regular home outlet but that will reduce you RV load to 15 amps (1800 watts).The big box stores have them HD stores usually have a licensed electrician in their electrical dept. so they can help you find it. RV Wiring
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:39 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auksas View Post
New to all RV thing
Need some info on 1990 Sunline 2480.
What AC unit does it have from the factory? How many amps or watts?
TT came with no plug attached to the main cable. What type of plug should be there?
If I want to connect it to the main panel in my house what gauge cord should I use?
Can somebody scan me an owners manual if possible or have one for sale?
I have no clue what some of the switches do. For example what button is for propane/electric switch?
Thanks a lot
I doubt it did come with an A/C unit from the factory. Most were still dealer add-ons at that time.

Main cable on the side of the trailer for 30 amp, not the front 7 way plug to connect to the tow vehicle? Main cable uses a 3 prong, 30 amp RV plug. You can get one you can wire up at an RV dealer, or the whole cord and plug if the cord is bad.

In terms of hooking it up to the house, you could wire it up 15 amp, but you just can't use a microwave, A/C unit, or other high draw things in there. Your standard lights and other small things will work though in moderation.

Your trailer did not come with a traditional 'owners manual' like a car does. It was simply a binder of all the individual appliance manuals and a few random information sheets on other things. It wouldn't cover the detail of what switch does what, and for more complicated things like refrigerator operation, a sticker on the refrigerator itself will tell you what to do.

That said, it should have very few switches. You probably have two by the door, one for an outside porch light and one for an interior overhead light (which the switch on the light must be on for that to work). There may also be a switch outside of the bathroom to turn the bathroom light on. Otherwise, all lights are run by the switches on the light itself. There's a switch on the stove hood for a light and exhaust fan. Being a Solaris, you should have a monitor panel to monitor battery and tank levels (you'll have to figure out which is 1 and 2 by trial and error). That should just have a test button to make it work, press and hold.

Your coach is too old to have come equipped with anything more than a standard gas water heater, so you control that on the unit itself outside. If you need help on how to light the water heater or oven, let us know as they can be a little complicated (particularly the oven). Not sure what else you'd refer to as gas/electric, because the refrigerator should tell you how do that and it's right on the refrigerator, assuming of course that it's the original.
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:30 PM   #4
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Thanks for your help. Yes, propane lighting procedure would help. Both tanks are empty right now so I can't even check if that works properly.
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:08 PM   #5
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Welcome to the forum Auksas.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mainah View Post
..... RV Wiring
In addition to the good info from Mainah and that link, I just want to stress that it is a RV plug for 110 volts. The plug and socket look similar to the old style 220 volt outlets used on dryers years ago. There have been many instances where even licensed electricians have wired up RV outlets to 220 volts with disasterous results.
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:27 PM   #6
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Great info in that link. Thanks
What's the longest 10 gauge cord I can use for 30A ? Thinking 50 feet.
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:47 AM   #7
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Quote:
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Welcome to the forum Auksas.


In addition to the good info from Mainah and that link, I just want to stress that it is a RV plug for 110 volts. The plug and socket look similar to the old style 220 volt outlets used on dryers years ago. There have been many instances where even licensed electricians have wired up RV outlets to 220 volts with disasterous results.
Yes only very new very big RV's have 220 volt systems. The 50 amp outlets are in reality two 120 volt outlets due to the way they are wired inside the RV. The loads are shared at 25 amps each @ 120 volts. These are most often found on big 5th wheels and large motor homes with 2 or 3 A/C units washer/drier and all the comforts of a large house. If an RV is wired to a 30 amp 220 outlet it will let the smoke out of the camper.
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:49 AM   #8
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Great info in that link. Thanks
What's the longest 10 gauge cord I can use for 30A ? Thinking 50 feet.
50' of #10 is fine. Be sure the breaker you buy is a single pole 30 amp if it has two screws for the wires it is the wrong one.
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Old 10-19-2013, 05:26 PM   #9
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50' of #10 wire will give you 117 volts at 30 amps. Only a 3 volt line loss.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:40 PM   #10
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50' of #10 is fine. Be sure the breaker you buy is a single pole 30 amp if it has two screws for the wires it is the wrong one.
Thanks. I'm pretty good with home electricity
Now I have a dedicated 30A single pole breaker for the RV outlet.
Still can't find any info on the AC. Need to get its specs. Will post some pics later.
I wonder if 2000W inverter generator would be enough to run it or if I need a bigger one.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:49 PM   #11
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Thanks. I'm pretty good with home electricity
Now I have a dedicated 30A single pole breaker for the RV outlet.
Still can't find any info on the AC. Need to get its specs. Will post some pics later.
I wonder if 2000W inverter generator would be enough to run it or if I need a bigger one.
Doubtful it will run it. Some people have replaced the start cap in the A/C and have had some success with a 2KW generator but it's really pushing it.
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:50 AM   #12
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Need some electrical info on 90' 2480

Any advice on a brake controller? Simpler- better. Thinking cheap time delayed Reese or Curt controller as we will be using the trailer only about 6-10 times a year for a 100-300 miles trips. Or should I get a fancier proportional one?


My toyota has a towing package so should be a painless installation.
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:27 AM   #13
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Any advice on a brake controller? Simpler- better. Thinking cheap time delayed Reese or Curt controller as we will be using the trailer only about 6-10 times a year for a 100-300 miles trips. Or should I get a fancier proportional one?


My toyota has a towing package so should be a painless installation.
Do you still have the harness that came with the truck? Should be some where in the truck comes with the factory tow package. Don't get a time delay unit the better ones are not that much more and work a lot better. No matter what one you buy it will have to be wired to the Toyota harness and then plugged in under the dash to the Toyota trailer plug wiring.
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Old 10-21-2013, 07:41 AM   #14
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When it comes to brakes, don't go cheap. May cost you more in the long run. In my opinion the best ones out there are the Prodigy 2 or 3.
Amazon.com: Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Brake Control for Toyota Vehicles: Automotive#
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:28 PM   #15
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Hi Auksas

Welcome to Sunline Owners Club and congrats on your new camper.

On the camper manual, see here, look under manuals. Those manuals while they are not for your exact year, are still helpful. On the appliances, we or you can track them down on the web. Our site has many but not all of them. If you run into a tough one, let us know we can help hunt.

This is a link to the "files" tab on the top of the form screen. The words "FILES" is a click-able tab with a lot of good stuff in there.

Sunline Coach Owner's Club - Sunline Owner's Files

On the AC unit, do you have a make and model number of the unit? Since it may not be a Sunline original it may be hard for us to know what it is you have. There are only about 3 popular brands, Dometic Duotherm. Coleman Mach and then some older Carrier's.

I'll echo what the other guys said on the 120VAC wiring. Also heads up, 50 feet of no 10 awg wire may not coil up back into the hole in the side of the camper if that is how you are going to store it. Most are in the approx 25 foot length. I replaced my vinyl one with an actual rubber one and I can only get about 35 feet in there jam packed. I ended up I think at about 32 feet or the length of my camper with the size of the hole Sunline gave me on my floor plan.

Hope this helps and good luck

John
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:20 PM   #16
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I think he is talking about wiring his house 30 amp outlet John. I hope he is not trying wrestle a 50' coil of #10.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I think he is talking about wiring his house 30 amp outlet John. I hope he is not trying wrestle a 50' coil of #10.
Oh....LOL
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
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I think he is talking about wiring his house 30 amp outlet John. I hope he is not trying wrestle a 50' coil of #10.
Yes I was
Not anymore. Connected the 30A plug to the existing 25 feet cord from the trailer and made the dedicated outlet from the house.
Now all I need is to get 15-20 feet of 10 GA and make and extension cord to connect those two.
Thanks for the help.





That's the AC brand that I have and I found this label on the ceiling
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Old 10-23-2013, 06:44 PM   #19
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The label comes with the trailer so they are saying nothing more then a 16 amp draw for the wiring. There are probably more than one Brisk Air unit so if you have the biggest one it's no more then 1920 watts.
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:48 PM   #20
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Trying to start my fridge on propane and following the instruction label: turn right knob on PROPANE, center knob 1/4 ON, press left button till the light goes off. After I press the button the light keeps blinking and emits a clicking sound.
Where do I start checking for problems and is there a way to light the propane for the fridge manually?
Few other questions.
3 switches on the side of the fridge: top one turns on the pump, lower left- light outside. Can't find what the lower right does.
There is a switch by the bathroom's door as well that I have no clue about its function.

Few lights don't work inside the trailer. I removed the light fixtures and confirmed that no electricity is coming to them. Is there a fuse box somewhere for those 12v lights?







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