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Old 04-29-2014, 12:57 PM   #21
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Wow! nice job on the stove and hood! What a cute little bargain you got!
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Old 05-02-2014, 02:08 PM   #22
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Well it finally stopped raining so I was able to install the grab handle on the camper.

these pictures were before I finished installing it so there were only two screws in it at the time.




Looks MUCH better then the square box!

now I just need to figure out how im going to fix the holes from the box that was there..any ideas as to how I can do it without it looking bad?
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:20 PM   #23
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Dimple the holes and run a screw in sinking the dead. use body filler to fill, sand even and paint.
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:24 AM   #24
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Your trailer, based on the floor plan, is identical to mine, although mine is a 1985. The ID tag on mine outside is worn off so I can't see the actual model number

Is yours a T1350? because mine measures out as a 15 footer, tongue to bumper. (knowing that different manufacturers can, and will, measure differently). So mine might be considered a 13 ft after all.
-----------------

I love what you did with your oven. What exact paint did you use? My stove is decent but I'd like mine to stand out. Stainless would not be easy to paint as it is, how di you prep it? Kudos on yours.

-----------------
Which reminds me. Does any one know where we can get new ID tags. It may seem corny but I'm trying to restore mine to as original as possible.
There are many off-the-shelf items we can all get from our local RV shop that are generic but there are also some of those subtle changes that can be made without taking away form originality.

I'd love to get new pin-stripe decals too
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:50 AM   #25
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1983 T-1350....yes.


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1982.

I was close!
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:02 AM   #26
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1982.

the oven was pretty easy. I bought a sanding sponge to sand the rust off then I sprayed it with some duplicolor high temp paint.

the porch light I bought off ebay. Its a Bargman metal assist light. Bargman Metal Assist Light 70 32 006 12V Push Button | eBay

Id love some new decals for the outside too! if anyone knows of any please let me know.
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:21 AM   #27
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More progress on the camper.

The trim that hides the hangers for the curtains somewhere along the way was removed. I had found some extra trim at moms house so I decided to use it for the camper.

(dont mind the curtain the previous owners put up lol)






Now I just need to finish a bit of painting then the hardwood floors will be ready to put in. here is a pic of a few pieces of the floor just sitting in place.



I think it will look much better then the old linoleum floor thats in it now.
more updates soon to come
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Old 10-14-2014, 08:50 AM   #28
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Well it has been a while but I have finally found some time to work on the camper some more! Started working on installing the new floor.


still have a bit left to do but I think it is turning out great!

I also had a chance to mess around with the running lights(I was told that the tail lights/running lights would not work.) So I pluged it up to my dads truck and all the lights but a few work! which is great news as I was really worried that it was going to be hard to fix. Im thinking replacing a few of the bulbs/housings will fix the problem.

I will post more pictures once the floor is done. Next on my check list is.

New fabric on the seats
im thinking this fabric.


New curtians. Im thinking the same fabric as above(not sure yet though)
New wallpaper in the kitchen area.
New wallpaper or paint on the walls behind the couch.
New interior lights.

New handles on the cabinets.

I am sure there is more on the list but that is all that I can think of at the moment.
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Old 10-14-2014, 11:05 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim44646 View Post
Before installing clean surface well and use butyl rubber tape under flange for a tight water seal. I'm sure new light and handle will add a new and better look to your trailer.
I have to agree with Jim. While the putty is factory-original I did that on some of my earlier restoration. Then I tried Butyl. A few bucks more but worth every penny and it forms better and looks nicer IMO.
I found if you use putty on some curves it tends to break apart. Butyl doesn't.
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Old 10-14-2014, 11:09 AM   #30
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Quote:
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Dimple the holes and run a screw in sinking the dead. use body filler to fill, sand even and paint.
Another idea is to get a couple of slightly oversized stainless steel screws. Use a little dab of butyl or facsimile and install the screws, but not too tight incase there's ;little to anchor to. The only reason I say this is because the 2 screws could end up looking factory-original. Just a suggestion
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Old 10-14-2014, 11:15 AM   #31
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Thanks! I used the tape but ive yet to fix the holes mainly working on the inside right now
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Old 10-14-2014, 02:46 PM   #32
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I had the same model (1981) and it was the cutest little thing! Lots of headturning in the campgrounds!
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Old 10-16-2014, 06:51 AM   #33
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Fixing up old campers is a disease that has no known cure.
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:51 AM   #34
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Quote:
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Fixing up old campers is a disease that has no known cure.
That is so true.
I think I have more fun fixing it up and working on it then I do camping in it. Next to towing of course. Towing my waxed trailer through a camp ground is like taking a classic car to a cruise.

Having a TT is a great hobby and can as expensive or as inexpensive as you wish. It all depends what it is you want to do and what your budget can afford. Plus, the entire family can share and enjoy YOUR hobby.
I also think it's a great opportunity for some people to learn how things work.
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:22 AM   #35
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$50 for your rig easily qualifies as the deal of the century.........
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Old 12-08-2014, 12:28 AM   #36
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this looks like a 1350, same as mine (1983). Really nice shape, way to go.
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Old 12-08-2014, 05:20 PM   #37
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I thought the ones with the door in the back was the 10.5 footer. or TT1000. Awesome find. great idea on stove and hood.
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Old 12-09-2014, 10:38 PM   #38
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Quote:
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I thought the ones with the door in the back was the 10.5 footer. or TT1000. Awesome find. great idea on stove and hood.

The 10.5' was the Sunspot, and you couldn't stand up in it.

What's a TT1000?
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Old 04-22-2015, 08:59 AM   #39
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Hello all Ive been away for a while since winter didnt want to go away but now that its warming up outside Ive started to mess with the camper some more. I bought all new running lights since the ones on the camper were old and nasty looking. only a few of the old ones would work so I was hoping replacing them would fix the problem. I thought wrong because after replacing them only the 4 side lights work, two on each side but none of the front or back running lights work. Anyone have any idea how I can get to the wires or where they run on the inside? Im thinking that they run through the walls which is going to be a pain to find and get to. Has anyone had this problem before and fixed it without tearing apart the inside of the camper?
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:58 AM   #40
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Typically, if some lights work and others don't you'll most likely be looking at a couple bad grounds. Since the positive wires can also be ganged together in parallel your problem could be there too.

NOTE: LED are polarity driven and only work one way when hooked up. The old analogue lights will work either way.

BEFORE you even read below, are you new lights LED or replacement old analogue (incandescent style)? If the new ones are LED it could be as simple as reverse polarity on a few lights). Check that first before you read below. If they are reversed simply swap the two connections.

If they are replacement incandescent light...read on.
Remove the lights that don't work.


Hopefully you have a volt meter of sorts. Not sure what your back ground in electrical is....If you know how to use a voltage meter then you can ignore some of the stuff below.
  • Hook you car (tow vehicle) up to the trailer, turn on the parking or headlights. Once you see a couple of those new light working, then you'll know the circuit is on.
  • Switch it to the DC voltage setting to about 20 volts or what ever your meter has for a lower DC voltage setting.
  • prepare the work area, meaning, have a piece of wire so that you're able to some how attach the light's ground to somewhere on the chassis. Scratch the paint if necessary and find someplace on the chassis where you can make that good electrical connection.
  • Place the Positive lead of the meter to the hot side of the light's wiring. Use an alligator clip jumper if you need to that would go between the meter's positive side to the wiring that feeds your light positive side.
  • use a second alligator jumper that will go between your temporary ground wire to the chassis to the meter's negative lead .
  • if you see a voltage, chances are you have a bad, or a couple, of bad connections inside that feeds your lights
  • If you don't see a voltage then reverse the one wire that comes out of the wall that feeds the positive lead on your meter. In other words, hook up to the other wire coming out of the trailer. That way you won't short anything out or blow fuses if by chance some one accidently reversed wiring previously (it does happen)
  • If you see a voltage, then disconnect from you temporary ground coming from your chassis (frame) and now see if you have voltage
Some of the old school trailers used its aluminum body as its ground but those grounds were very inconsistent. My TT has 2 wires, one for hot and one for ground. not the aluminum body.

Wiring can vary between trailers but often there are junction points UNDER or even inside the trailer where two or more grounds can be hooked together. Corrosion or breakage can take place
Haha, when I installed my new LEDs last year I wasn't paying attention and accidently hooked one of my lights up backwards. Obviously it didn't work.
It was a 'duh' moment for me.

Since we don't now exactly where your problem is, you'll need to check these few things out. One stage at a time and don't panic
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