Leveling Question

CTorris · 03-27-2014, 04:40 AM

"86 Saturn T-1661"

Leveled TT with a 4' level on the tongue, stood back and looked. Against the siding of the house it didn't look level. I want it as close to level as possible to attach graduated levels front & side.

My question is where do I place the 4' level to achieve this ?
Front to back I use the tongue jack, side to side I use a Bal tire leveler.

Thank You

FiveORacing · 03-27-2014, 05:08 AM

Do you have enough room on the floor inside?

CTorris · 03-27-2014, 05:11 AM

Yes I think so, if not I have a 2' level.

FiveORacing · 03-27-2014, 05:17 AM

Just thinking the floor is what matters, not only because your'e in there, but the appliances need to be close to level. Even if the siding or roof doesn't agree with the floor, it's the floor that is probably more critical. Then place your bubbles based on that.

CTorris · 03-27-2014, 05:21 AM

L & R - F & B. Over axel?

mainah · 03-27-2014, 06:58 AM

I agree with the floor it is the only reference I could see that the factory could use to put it together. I just did some interior work to mine and once the floor was level most of the wood work was too. A 4' level would be best front to back then side to side and recheck.

awellis3 · 03-27-2014, 07:56 AM

Floor is good but stove is gooder. I put a cast iron griddle over two burners and put my level on that. If the trailer is level and the floor is 1/2 inch out of level, no big deal. But, if the floor is perfectly level and the stove ain't, yo' fried eggs be migratin' onto da flo.'

bunjin · 03-27-2014, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTorris

L & R - F & B. Over axel?

Yep. That is what I did with my '82 T-1550.

That said, I did check a few places as well; like table, counter, and frig..

The PO had removed the stove, thus run-a-way eggs wasn't much of an issue.

The table surface didn't jib very well with the floor and I gave the frig. more concern than any other item.

I also checked the outside door for staying in any one place thru it's arc and not wanting to swing either open or close.

The bottom line was there was some compromising and trying not to have a house of horrors and doors swinging in the night.

mainah · 03-27-2014, 05:03 PM

I'm pretty sure they leveled the trailer frame before putting any framing on after I leveled the floor I checked the door fame and it was spot on. There were no shims on the stove so it had to be referenced to some thing they kind of drop in. The cabinets are all marked as to what it goes in so they are built else where. They are built from the outside in that makes them a pain to remodel, the counter I replaced was screwed in from the outside so all the screws were under the aluminum siding facing in.

Gene · 03-27-2014, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awellis3

.... if the floor is perfectly level and the stove ain't, yo' fried eggs be migratin' onto da flo.'

LOL

Well said.

**JohnB** · 03-27-2014, 09:11 PM

Inside on the floor is good, for both left to right and front to back.

The A Frame is not a good choice as it is welded to the main frame and can have error going up hill or down hill in relation to the main frame rails. While not on my Sunlines, I have found this on several other camper brands.

The longer the camper and it gets more complex finding "exactly" level and where. I have the tools to get the camper dead level within 3 decimal places but the camper is not straight and flat long enough for me to declare the camper is all level.

I have come to the point a 2 foot level on the floor over the axles which is next to the fridge is about as good as I'm going to get on mine. When we set up camp, I use a torpedo level on the floor.

The stick on levels, I do use them for front to back however I used the torpedo level inside on the floor for left to right. The stick on do not stay exactly stuck over time.

I also use the torpedo level on the siding as a quick front to back or left to right.

And as far as door frame being in or out of square, again the longer the camper this "might" be more aggravated. The rear door had a faint issue when we bought the camper in 2007. A few years ago I had to reset the entire door frame in fear of cracking the glass the door was so far off. Since the reset it is holding good. Now the front door has the issue. Some how over time or a lot of towing, the camper seems to lean to the back. Wind drag or frame flex or both??

John

02 WS6 TA · 05-07-2014, 05:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by awellis3

Floor is good but stove is gooder. I put a cast iron griddle over two burners and put my level on that. If the trailer is level and the floor is 1/2 inch out of level, no big deal. But, if the floor is perfectly level and the stove ain't, yo' fried eggs be migratin' onto da flo.'

I literally cracked up reading this. Wife thinks I have lost my mind. LOL!

Janalee · 05-07-2014, 08:44 AM

Well C...it has always been my understnding,especially with the older units,that it's the fridge you want level..the newer ones aren't as fussy about that. As for the rest of fhe trailer, as long as you are comfortable that's what matters there. When traveling it just doesn't matter anyway since tbe ammonia will slosh in the tubes-no damage.

The easiest (and correct IMHO) way is to place a bubble level in the freezer compartment,level your tt according to that..,then place your levels on the outside to agree with it...your levels may not look perfectly level to you, but your fridge will be happy!!
P.S. Have oatmeal for breakfast--forget those eggs-oatmeal won't roll onto the floor...lol!!