Hitch Height for Solaris T2975

[Steve Collins]

Originally Posted by mellie

I took some pics for my husband today. This is one that he thought would be good to show ya'll. What do you think?
~Mellie

Mellie,

Can you measure the height main frame rails (the C-channel that runs the full length of the trailer on each side directly above the spring shackles.) and see how high they are? They should be either 4", 5", or 6". They look like 4" in the pic, but it's hard to be sure.

If they are 4" tall, then I do believe that I can tell you why your trailer sits so low.

JohnB, can you tell what is missing?

[JohnB]

Hi Mellie

Thanks for that one pic. Boy this one really has me curious not on how Sunline created a ball coupler height of 13 1/2"....

OK lets compare a few things. Here is my prior 2004, T2499. This was the camper that had a 18 1/2" ball height AND the bottom of the frame to the ground was 13 1/2". Look and see the bottom of the frame lines up with the center of the wheel.



Now looks at Ray and Mellie's


Look at the bottom of the frame red line, it lines up with the center of the wheel. Now look at mine. It also lines up with the center of the wheel and I have 13 1/2" ground to bottom of frame. For sure for these weights my prior T2499 and Mellie's T2975 have the same tires.

OK the light bulb just went off

Mellie, on the front of your camper there is what we call a ball coupler. Does your look like this? The ball coupler is on "top" of the A frame.

OR is your ball coupler on the "Bottom" of the A Frame? This is not a Sunline, It's a Jayco and a buddy of mine but it was the only bottom coupler pic I had to show you.


Sunline has for the most part used top of frame mounted couplers. But in you case with the FEMA unit it might be different.

A bottom mounted coupler could explain your 13 1/2" ball height with the axle pic you showed us.

OR Sunline did something special with the A frame of the camper and it steps down. You really have my curiosity up now. We will wait patiently for a picture of the camper A frame where the ball coupler is. Stand back just a little bit so we see from the end of the tow ball area up to the front of the camper.

The good news is, you can for sure have the axle over/under kit done and lift the camper. If I recall right you will gain about 3 1/3 to 4" of height.

Steve the guy with the other low tow ball camper was MedBill. He had the T 1950SR unit. That front slide lowered the ball coupler but is still was not this low. Here is a pic of his I drew on.


Here is the post http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/f7...n-10338-2.html Start on page 2 for Medbill's 15 1/4 ball height camper.

Thanks

John

[clueless campers]

It looks like the u-bolts are lower than the rim. If they ever had a tire blowout, it seems there would be some major destruction when the bolts hit the road!

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by clueless campers

It looks like the u-bolts are lower than the rim. If they ever had a tire blowout, it seems there would be some major destruction when the bolts hit the road!

Hi Dona

The pic of Mellie's axle is a little skewed due to the angle, but regardless, yes the U bolts are lower then the rim. That is not unique to Mellie's camper. Just about any low slung axle in this weight size is like that and odds are good yours is as well. Take a look next time you are at the camper. I know my T2499 was that way.

If one tire blows out the other tire is still working holding the camper partly up and is very strained from being overloaded. Odds are unless you drop in a hole, the suspension will help hold the U bolts far enough up on that one blown tire to not hit. Now if both tires go out on the same side, your dragging.... or plowing... Along with possibly the dump pipe and the rear V skid bars. Not a pretty site.

On campers with straight axles, the rim can hit the road after a blow out and you can mess up the rim but at least it's round or was.

A blow out is not good period. Hopefully it does not destroy the wheel well and parts of the camper by the time you get the camper stopped. A good reason to always check camper tire pressure before the tow day starts.

Hope this helps

John

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Hi Millie, everyone, Another thing I see is the unit is sitting on a gravel parking space. With measurements so critical/close wouldn't it be better to measure on a known level surface like a paved space? What is level to the unit might not have the frame running paralell to the ground. My T2363 is very low but when setting it up the first thing done was to make sure the TV and the TT were on one level surface. Since the hitch is in the middle and the wheels possibly resting in ruts that would make measurements off. Even in my unpaved drive that looks 'level', it isn't.

Not saying Millie doesn't still have problems outside the norm like smaller wheels but they should start on a level playing field.

jim

[Steve Collins]

John,

If this is a 4" frame, then right where you drew the upper red line along the under side of the frame rail, there should be a piece of steel box channel about 5 feet long welded in place between the rail and the shackle holders. The OD of that box steel should be just under 2"x2" which would bring the ball height back to the same height as MedBill's - about 15.25.

You can just make out the box channel in this pic of the underside of mine.


I don't know if Sunline used the box channel on the 5" frames or larger.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by Jim-Bev-2363

Not saying Millie doesn't still have problems outside the norm like smaller wheels but they should start on a level playing field.

jim

Jim Good point.


Steve, my 2004 T2499 that is in the pic above has a 5" mainframe rails from channel as well as the tongue. In 2005 all 7,000# GVWR frame campers went to 6" I beam frame rails with 4" channel A Frame. I do not know if the FEMA campers ever had that change.

I know of the tube you are referring to, to mount the spring hangers to. Fifth wheels use that often more so to help spread the weight along the frame. In Millie's case the over under is simpler then cutting off the hanger and adding the tube OR longer hangers however it would work.

The 13 1/2" ball height is still a mystery…..

[Steve Collins]

John, I was not suggesting that installing the box channel as a fix (although it is an option I suppose.)


I was more pointing out that the absence of the box channel may account for the unusually low height, especially if it was specially built for FEMA and the channel was intentionally left off. If the box channel were there, then the height would be at least that of MedBill's.

[mellie]

Here are more pictures showing you the other areas of the trailer that you requested.

Thanks for all the help,
Mellie

[mellie]

Here's the last pic.
~Mellie

[JohnB]

Mellie

Great pics! Perfect. We now have enough I believe to solve this mystery.

Here I'll build the puzzle pieces.

This is the inside of your main frame rails. This tells us the main frame has a flange on the bottom. At this point we cannot tell if it is channel iron or I beam.


This is the outside of your frame up to the bottom of the camper. This shows a flange on the bottom and top on this side. This is consistent with I beam main frame rails. This also is the same design as the 2005 to 2007 Sunlines that had a 7,000# GVWR.


This is ground to frame at the tire. This pic shows 12 1/2" this may be slightly more on hard surface pavement due to the tire sinking in the gravel. But we know you are at least 12 1/2"


Here is the A frame. The ball coupler is on top and this is the standard ball coupler that Sunline has used for many years. I can tell by the width of the coupler and the amount of steel exposed below it that the A frame is made from 4" channel iron. This is consistent with the 2005 frame
redesign.


We can also see the A frame lines up with the bottom of the frame header. And we know the bottom of the frame height back at the TT tires.

So here is the prediction:

+ 12.5" at tires in gravel
+ 4" A frame width at tongue with ball coupler on top.
_____
16.5" from the dimensions you have supplied

+ 1" possible back at the wheel area for the tire being depressed in gravel.
____
17.5" possible ball height when TT is level on hard surface ground


I now believe Jim pointed us correctly. Due to the depression in the gravel by the tires and then long length of the camper you are measuring 13 1/2" at the ball coupler is due to un-level gravel. It is hard to see across that length that the gravel may not be level. The main Camper frame is straight and the A frame on the front matches the normal Sunline frame of that year.

Tweety, Kitty, Good Ole Bob, or anyone else with a 2005 thru 2007 7,000# GVWR camper what is the ball height of your TT before you did the axle flip if you did one? I suspect yours is the same as Mellie's.

Mellie I think your going to be good now on the ball height once you tow the camper from that location. The axle flip is still an option if you want more height but many tow their Sunny's the way yours is. If you have a uphill driveway or other places where you may drag then the axle flip will help.

As far as weight distributing hitches, if this is a confirmed 17.5" ball height camper then the Reese Trunnion bar Dual Cam hitch will work well or the Equalizer hitch by Progress manufacturing. If this is under 17" then go with the Equalizer. If you do an axle flip then no issues on either.

If you need more hitch help, ask away we have several here on SOC that can assist.

If you are still unsure and want to verify this, make sure the camper is level as verified by a level. Take a string and tape it, clamp it or hold it on the bottom of the main frame back by the wheels where you showed us the tape measure. Then pull that long string all the way out to the front of the camper following the main frame rail and even extend out to the ball coupler length. Lift the string so it just touches the bottom of the main frame along it's full length but not above. When you project out from the main frame rails to the ball coupler length, measure from the gravel to the string. You know the camper is level, the string is now level too as it follows the frame. So if the front of the string is several inches less then at the wheels you know know the gravel is going up hill towards the ball coupler of the TT. You have now proven the mystery is solved OR we predicted wrong.... but I do not think so in this case.

By the way, the frame of that camper looks to be in very good shape. No rust or anything.

Hope this helps

John

[Gene]

John,

Take a closer look at the coupler.



It looks like the top is below the top of A frame.

[Gene]

Here is an inhanced image.

[JohnB]

Originally Posted by Gene

John,

Take a closer look at the coupler.



It looks like the top is below the top of A frame.

Hi Gene

That view may be deceiving. OR not. The pic is looking sort of down on the coupler. Here is how I came to my hypothesis.....

This is the ball coupler I do believe Sunline used. http://www.shelbyindustries.com/cust...%20coupler.pdf

OK now here you can see the Shelby on my older T2499. This was a 5" wide A frame. You can see there is 1" more channel iron exposed below the ball coupler side plate.



Now look at Medbill 4" wide A frame. See the same coupler and there is very little steel below the coupler side frame. Maybe 3/8 ish. That coupler side flange is almost 4" just like on mine.



Look at the top of the ball coupler and the top of the A frame. And scroll back up and look at my T2499 as well. The top of the coupler is very close to the top of the frame.

Now here is a zoom in on Mellie's



That may or may not be a Shelby coupler the image is distorted. The ball portion is 3 3/8" on a 2 5/16 ball coupler. See Medbills as I measured that when I did that pic. It "appears" but this pic and the other back ground I had Mellie's top of ball is very close to the top of frame. If it is lower, then maybe 1/4 to 1/2" but not much more.

While it may not be true flush with the top of the frame it does not appear to be very far from the top.

Did you see something else?

Thanks

John

Mellie, did we solve the mystery or do we need to keep digging?

[Sunline1]

Mellie

I'm chimming a little late.

I have a (Titled) 02, T 2975, built in May 01.


I can tell you this, the "bottom' of my Reese adujtable ht WD hitch that goes into the reciever, is pretty darn close to the ground. never measured it but guess its around 6 in, just a guess.

When I bought the trailer new, first trip down south, I scraped the trailer bottom left rear corner skid plate/bar, and cracked the shower drain pipe and had to have it fixed, lucky Sunline paid the repair.

Once or twice I have drug the bottom of the hitch, going out or into a parking lot/campground.

I learned to watch very closely where I'm pulling into or out of, and of course go as slow as posssible when you can.

Never really considered the axle flip, but maybe I should give it some consideration.

[mellie]

Hi Everyone,

John thanks for the deduction, and yes, Jim was exactly correct. I should have realized that the pivot point of the TT was at the center of the two axles. After Mellie gave me your reply, we went out this morning and measured the height of the frame to the ground from the tip of the A-frame to the center of the axles. At the tip it was 10.5 inches. Then we measured in approximately two feet increments: 11, 11.25, 11.5, 11.75, 12.25, 12.75 and 13.5 inches respectively. From the tip of the A-frame to the center of the axles there was a 3 inch drop in the ground level. I thought the pad was level, but then I remembered I had put a gentle slope on it to help drain water. I surely do appreciate everyone’s input and analysis to help us solve our problem.

Considering that the original rear jacks and one of the skids were mangled, I went to the local dealer this morning to inquire about flipping the axles. They said they would do it for $200, parts and labor. For me, that’s a very good deal since I would probably have to spend more than that having someone fix whatever I broke. I also decided to let them put on the WD/equalizer at the same time. Thanks also for your suggestions for the WD system.

Again, thanks to everyone for your help and support. You all are truly an asset to Sunline owners everywhere!!

Ray.

[Jim-Bev-2363]

Hello Ray, Glad you found your problem and it was only measurements involved. That sounds like a good deal on the axle flip. I should get it done on mine but then I'd need a new hitch and a new Wifey since this one would explode.

Happy camping!!!
jim

[JohnB]

Ray and Mellie

GREAT!!! Glad the mystery is solved. And the axle flip cost is a good price considering what RV repair shops can charge.

Glad this all turned out well. Happy camping in your new coach and looking forward to hearing about your Sunline Adventures.

John

[JohnB]

Ray

Forgot to mention, the Equal-I-zer hitch we where referring to was this brand made by Progress Manufacturing
http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ Their web site was down tonight for some strange reason. They have a good web site with instruction videos and manuals. Their free hot line tech service is good too.

In case that link is not working, here they are for sale at 2 of many dealers.

Here here they are for sale on may other dealer sites
Equalizer Weight Distribution Hitches & Equalizer Hitch Shanks | HitchSource.com

Equal-i-zer Hitch w/Sway Control on Sale

The only reason I'm pointing this out is the generic WD hitch is often nicknamed a equalizer hitch. They are made by Husky, Curt, EAZ lift, Reese even, Valley, Robin etc.

Is your dealer providing the actual Equal-I-zer brand? For folks new WD hitches it can be a common miss understanding. They asked the dealer for an equalizer hitch and they installed a standard WD hitch made my someone else and maybe a friction sway bar.

Just passing along a friendly heads up in case you did not know.

Good luck

John

[mellie]

John,

Our local dealer recommended numorous WD systems. We will specifically require about the Equalizer brand that you recommended.

Thanks for help with this. We may have more questions after we discuss our options with the dealer.

Ray