Furnace Ducts

Ray · 09-26-2010, 10:08 AM

Hi, Been able to spend some time on my '86 Satellite this weekend. Been a tad chilly so I fired up the furnace and it seems to work well. I found that the ducts in the rear bedroom have NO heat comming from them. The only duct that is working is the one right beside the furnace controls. It appears that the other ducts are connected and have not vibrated loose or anything.
What am I missing??
Probably this is something real simple like duct shut-offs or the like, but I can't find it. The louvers are all open.
Thanks for any advise.
Ray

kanyonkitty · 09-26-2010, 10:57 AM

You need to check at the furnace to make sure the ducts haven't pulled off the the furnace. Also check the ducting itself to see if it has any holes/large tears.

Steve Collins · 09-26-2010, 11:57 AM

By removing some drawers and looking about a bit, you should be able to follow those 4" ducts from the furnace out to where they end in a louver.

It is possible that, like Kitty says, one is torn or damaged, or even crushed.

If you find some severely damaged, it is easily replaced. The ducting, at least in my '99 is just 4" flexible dryer vent hose and is available at any hardware or home improvement store.

Ray · 09-26-2010, 04:06 PM

OK & Thanks, taking out drawers etc and feeling in as far as I can reach did't do the trick.
Funny, the bathroom duct is LESS than 4ft from the furnace and all looks well with it, but darned if any heat comes from it.
Gotta work on it more in the morning.
I do appreciate the help from all you folks, worries me that I ask so many questions and drive you all crazy.
Saying that I've found another problem and I'll take a chance and ask right here.
I turned on the water pump switch and pump didn't start.

Put the Simpson meter on it, no voltage comming from the switch.

Unhooked the wires from the pump and moved my lawn tractor up near and hooked on to tractor battery directly to the pump. NO JOY!!
Not a peep from the pump. If there is a reset on the pump motor I couldn't find one.
Pump is a Shurflo 200-210-39, looks like it's no longer made.
If I do in fact need a new one, what is a direct replacement??
Thanks Agn,
Ray

Steve Collins · 09-26-2010, 05:26 PM

Ray, is the trailer hooked up to city water at the moment? I ask because these pumps have a pressure sensor in them, and they won't come on unless there is a drop in pressure downstream from the pump. By that I mean, that when you open a faucet, the pressure drops immediately and the pump will kick on. That is presuming that you are not hooked up to city water and you are drawing water from the on board fresh water tank.

If you are hooked up to city water, there may be enough pressure, even with a faucet open, to prevent the pump from turning on.

These pumps are pretty bullet proof, but they do fail every now and then. Since you have a Simpson, I am guessing you've already checked for adequate ground, etc.

As for replacing it, almost any pump made for RV's will do. You probably don't need a multi-port pump, but if the pump really needs to be replaced, it's an ideal opportunity to step up to a quieter pump with a higher flow rate. Here is a link to the online catalog that most RV dealers and parts counters use. Click on the next page button for 3 or 4 more pages of pumps.
GO-RV.com - RV On-line Catalog

On the furnace, it is possible that the ducts were never connected to the furnace. That's pretty easy to determine if you can gain access to the furnace. The 4" flex ducts connect to ports on the furnace with a simple clamp. If you remove the ducts one at a time and run the furnace, you should get good air flow out of each port.

These furnaces are built to be installed in a wide variety of RV's, so they have knock-outs for quite a few ports. Depending on the size of the trailer, it may only be using one or two of them.

It is also possible that something is blocking one of the ports. You should be able to spot that when you remove the ducts.

Gene · 09-27-2010, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray

... worries me that I ask so many questions and drive you all crazy. ......

Questions are good and we all learn from the answers. I never know when I will come across something in my coach and say, oh I saw the answer to that on the forum.

Keep asking.

Ray · 09-27-2010, 04:31 PM

Hoorah Hoorah, I found and cured the problem, but what a bunch of work.

A MOUSE had dragged a large amount of insulation into the duct and plugged it solid.
Natually it couldn't have done it near the ends. Seems it smack dab in the middle of the duct run. I glad that's out of the way and I have plenty of heat in the bath & bedroom.
Thanks for the help. Now I can move on to other things that need attention.
Later,
Ray

**JohnB** · 09-27-2010, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ray

I turned on the water pump switch and pump didn't start.

Put the Simpson meter on it, no voltage comming from the switch.

Unhooked the wires from the pump and moved my lawn tractor up near and hooked on to tractor battery directly to the pump. NO JOY!!
Not a peep from the pump. If there is a reset on the pump motor I couldn't find one.
Pump is a Shurflo 200-210-39, looks like it's no longer made.
If I do in fact need a new one, what is a direct replacement??
Thanks Agn,
Ray

Ray

See this one site if you need a new pump. RVUpgradeStore - RV Water Pumps and Fittings : RV Tank : Waste Pump : RVUpgradeStore.com

It will get you started from the basic Shurlfo to the higher end variable speed units. Once you find a pump model you want, then shop the web. That one site I know of but trust me, there are lots of people who sell Shurflo pumps. RV Products: RV Water Pump, RV Roof Vent, RV Faucet, RV Water Filter & Accessories – SHURflo RV Fluid Delivery Solutions

Here is one recommendation, if you buy a new pump and buy an inline strainer for it. Most if not all never have one from the factory. Why??? good question. This is good to do even if you get the old one working. Dirt is the enemy of these pumps. Any spec can mess up the check valves inside.

To the pump not running. Steve's comment about the pressure switch may be valid if you have city water already pressurized in the camper. If no water and no pump run, well it may be the pressure switch is shot or the motor. Take your Simpson, put it on Ohms and test across the 2 wires of the pump. If it is an open circuit, then something is not right. The windings should give some kind of resistance.

I myself have not seen an overload reset on a RV water pump. They are too cheap to put on one. However some have an inline fuse. I doubt your standard Shurlfo even has a fuse.

Good luck and let us know what you find out.

And the questions, ASK, don't worry we are here to help and we too learn from you. This is the place for Sunline info and help along with hearing about the good times in your Sunline. So once you get it all fixed tell us on some of your adventures too.

John

Ray · 09-28-2010, 11:55 AM

Just an update on what I've found.
I took the pump out this morn.
Bypassed the pressure switch and connected the motor directly to a 12v battery.
No Joy!
Took the front end cap off & removed the armature & rear cap as as a unit. All looked excellent inside. The commutator/brushes/brush holder all were as if new.
Vry little rust where the front bearing rides in the nylon bearing. Remove that with crocus cloth & added light coat of oil.
Now noticed rear bearing spins in the bearing housing, that is not good.
During re-assembly, notice that the one of the "field magnets" was loose and the adhesive had dried up & headed south.
This can be saved, but do I want too?? Naw..........Just asking for trouble.
OH, I did have this running, the rear bearing housing (end cap) got vry, vry warm.
Time for a brand new cup of coffee.
Later,
Ray