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Old 07-26-2016, 01:50 AM   #1
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Front window problem (leak)

Well just when we were planning our first weekend get-a-way with the Sunline , it rained yesterday….After I fixed the roof and galley floor over the last few weeks, my bride went in to deposit her new canister set for the Sunline and a considerable amount of water was on the counter and adjoining area…Narrowed it down to the window in the front so I need to pull that out and repair it….MRI today so I suspect it will be tomorrow before I can do it….Take window out , apply butyl tape to the opening and reinstall window….Anything I else I need to know before I start..???…Thanks Dave….
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Old 07-26-2016, 05:01 AM   #2
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And one more thing, what is under the siding…can the rear be reworked from water damage (insulation and studs) from the inside….Thanks….Dave
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:16 PM   #3
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There is wood behind the siding. They frame it out. Here are a few pics

Starts like this


Take off the inside seal ring,






Have someone outside in case it lets go they can steady it.



When you put it back in, lift and center the window in the hole. The weight will want to drop it to the bottom, but you need to shim it up or hold it up until you put the metal inside flange back on to hold it. OR else if the widow is on the bottom of the opening, the top window flange will not have much butyl overlap on the siding and on the bottom you will have a lot of overlap = a leak soon at the top.

And yes, if there is wood damage, you can fix from the inside or the outside. Inside deal with the paneling and outside, deal with the siding. If the wood is just damaged around the sill, that is a lot easier/less to fix then wall studs too.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 07-27-2016, 12:42 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
There is wood behind the siding. They frame it out. Here are a few pics

Starts like this


Take off the inside seal ring,






Have someone outside in case it lets go they can steady it.



When you put it back in, lift and center the window in the hole. The weight will want to drop it to the bottom, but you need to shim it up or hold it up until you put the metal inside flange back on to hold it. OR else if the widow is on the bottom of the opening, the top window flange will not have much butyl overlap on the siding and on the bottom you will have a lot of overlap = a leak soon at the top.

And yes, if there is wood damage, you can fix from the inside or the outside. Inside deal with the paneling and outside, deal with the siding. If the wood is just damaged around the sill, that is a lot easier/less to fix then wall studs too.

Hope this helps

John
…..Thanks John, I picked up the butyl tape yesterday and am heading out later this morning to start on it…..Have spent a little extra time on the forum and am finding out how to look for old posts etc…Found some on the window also, but always good to post and gain some insight….Thanks Again….Dave
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Old 07-28-2016, 02:29 PM   #5
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Still need to give it the water test….

Well yesterday we did the window….Had the Bossa's help so as you can see she waded into the project….We removed all traces of butyl tape from the camper and window and redid it with 1 inch butyl….After of course the Bossa cleaned it all with mineral oil and washed the surface afterward….I took Tyvex tape and built a covering over the bottom of the window opening and up about 4 inches on the sides…Then we reinstalled the window and cleaned up the edges and caulked the edge of the butyl tape with dicor 551….Were letting it cure today and I got a 14 inch drop hitch and another sway bar for the Eaz-hitch and worked on that…Took it for a short spin and came home and made a one link adjustment and will try that tomorrow….It worked fine today , but I just attached it with 3 links unused instead of two to try and see if there was a difference….All thats left is, I want to take the paneling off the back wall and see why the moisture gauge is reading the highest on the window up part of the wall….I redid the roof and painted and caulked it so I want to see if my repair didn't do its job or it was like that before ….Whatever it needs I have to do…May take a day or two off to fetch material etc if needed…Of course the previous owner never made mention of the items I have discovered…I have put a floor in the dinette area, fixed the roof leak in the rear, redid the window ( which probably caused the floor in the dinette to rot) , painted and relug nutted with chrome the wheels ( still need to install my bearing buddies), put a decal on the back and one on the sunshade on the front and various other little things….Hoping the bedroom back wall will be the end for awhile……Then came in and worked on posting pictures haha….Thanks Dave (PS, everything that is brown is usually green but we are drought stricken here..)
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Old 07-29-2016, 08:16 PM   #6
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Hi Dave,

Your window came out well. Good job!!!

You mentioned this:

Quote:
( still need to install my bearing buddies)
If you mean a bearing buddy that looks like this,



A friendly heads up. That type of bearing buddy is made for a boat trailer or other non braked axle. You really do not want to do that on your camper or and axle with electric or hydraulic brakes. With the bearing buddy, you can and will fill the cavity with grease and the inner bearing. The issue is there is no grease pressure relief other then the inboard grease seal letting go. The grease will end up on the brakes. On a non braked boat trailer, it does not matter if grease squirts out the seal as no brake is there. Sooner or later, the grease pressure can work it's way towards the brakes.

They do make what is called an EZ lube axle where there is a grease hole down the center of the axle and then up behind the double seal before the brakes. This forces grease down the axle center then up behind the inboard bearing and out through the cavity and out the outer bearing. This method is not fool proof and if the seal is weak, the grease will still come out on the brakes, but if used correctly it stands a chance of working. see here http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/...s/E-Z-Lube.pdf

I myself still hand pack so I know exactly what I have and you check the brakes at the same time the drum is off. Trailer electric brakes are no where to be called heavy duty. They need periodic checking, adjusting and fiddling with. I happen to have the EZ lube feature but elect on purpose to not use it. That is just me in this case, doing it the old way and I know it works, all the time. I am actually doing my bearing as I type this. Will finish it up on Saturday.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:37 PM   #7
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[QUOTE=JohnB;133521]Hi Dave,

Your window came out well. Good job!!!

You mentioned this:



If you mean a bearing buddy that looks like this,



A friendly heads up. That type of bearing buddy is made for a boat trailer or other non braked axle. You really do not want to do that on your camper or and axle with electric or hydraulic brakes. With the bearing buddy, you can and will fill the cavity with grease and the inner bearing. The issue is there is no grease pressure relief other then the inboard grease seal letting go. The grease will end up on the brakes. On a non braked boat trailer, it does not matter if grease squirts out the seal as no brake is there. Sooner or later, the grease pressure can work it's way towards the brakes.

They do make what is called an EZ lube axle where there is a grease hole down the center of the axle and then up behind the double seal before the brakes. This forces grease down the axle center then up behind the inboard bearing and out through the cavity and out the outer bearing. This method is not fool proof and if the seal is weak, the grease will still come out on the brakes, but if used correctly it stands a chance of working. see here http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/...s/E-Z-Lube.pdf

I myself still hand pack so I know exactly what I have and you check the brakes at the same time the drum is off. Trailer electric brakes are no where to be called heavy duty. They need periodic checking, adjusting and fiddling with. I happen to have the EZ lube feature but elect on purpose to not use it. That is just me in this case, doing it the old way and I know it works, all the time. I am actually doing my bearing as I type this. Will finish it up on Saturday.

Hope this helps

John[/QUOTE….Holy Grease Gun….After seeing your response , It does make sense…But I thought back of the many utility trailers I've had ( including my Big Tex dump trailer I bought a few years back, that actually came with bearing buddies on them….) Perhaps they have ( or had) the particular type of axle you speak of that allows them…..I never probably used them correctly as I didn't stuff them with grease just 8 or so pumps when I thought they needed it and probably without stuffing them they didn't work anyway…ha…..I always did it by hand yearly also and carried some spare outer bearings just in case…..I will pack them by hand in the near future….That would be the way to go and check the brakes also…Thanks Dave
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnB View Post
Hi Dave,

Your window came out well. Good job!!!

You mentioned this:



If you mean a bearing buddy that looks like this,



A friendly heads up. That type of bearing buddy is made for a boat trailer or other non braked axle. You really do not want to do that on your camper or and axle with electric or hydraulic brakes. With the bearing buddy, you can and will fill the cavity with grease and the inner bearing. The issue is there is no grease pressure relief other then the inboard grease seal letting go. The grease will end up on the brakes. On a non braked boat trailer, it does not matter if grease squirts out the seal as no brake is there. Sooner or later, the grease pressure can work it's way towards the brakes.


John


Sorry to hijack your thread Dave, your trailer's looking great.

JohnB, the PO of my recently acquired T-1700 had Bearing Buddies installed about a year ago and I'm trying to wrap my mind around these things. If the old grease isn't replaced with fresh grease (like the EZ-Lube) what is the advantage to even a trailer with no brakes? Just holds more grease?

So you're suggesting I get rid of mine?
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:29 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by johnnybgood View Post
Sorry to hijack your thread Dave, your trailer's looking great.

JohnB, the PO of my recently acquired T-1700 had Bearing Buddies installed about a year ago and I'm trying to wrap my mind around these things. If the old grease isn't replaced with fresh grease (like the EZ-Lube) what is the advantage to even a trailer with no brakes? Just holds more grease?

So you're suggesting I get rid of mine?
If you have actual bearing buddies like shown in that pic, then heads up the grease will purge out the inner seal and onto your brakes if you keep pumping it. You do not have to get rid of it, but maybe not use it. For the system to work and get grease to the inboard bearing, you have to fill the cavity and know exactly when to stop so the grease does not purge out the inboard seal. I really do not know how to do that. While you may get lucky once, what do you do the next time you grease? The old grease has to go somewhere with the new grease behind it. Think about where it is going to go?

Bearing buddies are intended for boat trailers that are submerged under water. Grease fills the cavity and everything else in between the bearing buddy grease fitting and the inboard bearing seal. Being packed with grease helps keep the water out. Eventually the grease when pumped has to come out once you reach almost full. The grease will purge out the easiest path which is often the inboard bearing. On a non brake axle, grease oz-zing out the inboard bearing seal while it makes a mess on the ground, does not stop anything from working. If it is on a trailer with brakes, then it can get onto the brakes.

In the beginning of the EZ lube by Dexter http://l.b5z.net/i/u/6149609/f/produ...s/E-Z-Lube.pdf or the Ultra Lube by Alko, they too where made for the boat industry. Then as time went on, they made their way into all kinds of trailers. I was calling Dexter tech service and talking to engineering regarding my Dexter self adjusting brakes I was adding. This guy had been around a while and was a world of info. So I asked him about the EZ lube and trailer trailers with electric brakes.

According this this tech at Dexter, they have many reports of their axles failing and after investigating it is due to lack of lube. He stated, most people with trailers do not think to grease the axles or even know they need to be greased. They get so little attention they felt they had to do something. He stated, people think of trailer axles like they do autos and most never change the gear oil in the car either but at least it has oil in it.

So they started marketing the EZ lube to the general trailer industry so the axles would have a better chance to get some lube. And the RV industry uses a lot or trailers. So as a "feature" to help sell more campers, EZ lube axles started being offered as a sales perk. The cost is peanuts during the time of manufacturing to add the drilled hole in the axle, a zerk fitting add a double inboard seal and a different great cap, and presto, EZ lube is born.

There is still a debate on if you are suppose to jack up the camper and hand turn the wheel when greasing. Some manuals stated to do this and other manufactures said no need to. Dexter says rotate the hub. Bottom of page 57 http://www.dexteraxle.com/i/u/614960...d_Bearings.pdf

Alko use to have an on line video of the ultralube. But the web site has changed and even the PDF does not work. But see the flier hear. Notice it is being demo'ed on a non brake axle. AL-KO

They actually do offer a "Nev-R-er Lube" axle http://www.dexteraxle.com/nev_r_lube_bearings

These use a special Timken prepacked bearing cartridge. And they offer them on brake axles. SunnyBrook RV use to use them and Holiday Rambler. They worked well up to the point the life of the grease was up and then you had bearing failure. I have a buddy who has them on his older Holiday Rambler and they are only rated to last so many years. Then you change out the entire Timken bearing assembly. According to this flyer, it is 5 years or 100,000 miles. http://l.b5z.net/i/u/6149609/f/produ...Nev-R-Lube.pdf

And they make axles that use gear oil. You fill the bearings and cavity half full of gear oil. This works well for lubing, there are a few draw backs. If there is a leak, all the oil can drain out, and if the inboard seal gets a nick in going on the axle, over time the seal can leak. And if the camper sits for months on end, rust can sometimes form above the oil line from condensation. Big commercial trailers use these a lot and they are more maintenance free.

That may be more then ever thought of on axle lube... but the hand packed bearings done right, do work well.
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Old 08-07-2016, 04:39 AM   #10
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Sorry to hijack your thread Dave, your trailer's looking great……

No problem here, Someday I'll impress someone about axles and bearings…!!!!!….ha……My cousin runs a construction, excavation business..I'll see how much he knows soon, he's building a site for my camper on his property so we can visit more often…Good stuff John….
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:15 AM   #11
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Thanks for the info!
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