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Old 08-17-2014, 04:11 PM   #1
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Electric switch on 1987 Saturn T-1550 ?

Last year I bought a 1987 Saturn T-1550 . The electric worked fine . Even the refrigerated. He said when you plug in the electric it automatically recharges the battery also. I used it for 5 weeks last fall and then put it in my barn. I just pulled it out and plugged in to the electrical out let to recharge the battery for a little fan and light use for a upcoming trip. AS soon as it is plugged in I assumed the electric would work. No electric works. Not lights, not fan. I don't remember there being any electric switch I turned off in the camper somewhere that needs to be turned back on. But I was really hoping there was one that I forgot about.It makes no sense to me sense it was working fine when I put it away last winter. Any thoughts?
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:00 PM   #2
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First make sure your getting power from outlet you plugged into. Check all circuit barkers and fuses in converter.
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Old 08-17-2014, 05:16 PM   #3
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I do believe you need a fully charged battery for the 12 volt items to work - but stand by and someone will chime in!
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:15 PM   #4
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The older converters should make 12 volts even with out a battery. Try a table lamp or some thing in you camper outlets and see if it works.
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Old 08-17-2014, 06:17 PM   #5
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I agree with what JIM said. Check and make sure you have power at source. Then make sure all breakers are on. Then check fuses. You do not need battery if you are plugged into 110. The converter should supply the 12 volt systems without battery. Check to see if you have 110 to microwave and outlets. If you have it then check 12 volt fuses starting with the 30 or 40 amp fuses.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:23 PM   #6
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My Centurion CS4500 (vintage 2002) will not charge if the battery is real low. I don't know if the 1987 vintage was like that.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:44 PM   #7
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Well there is a circuit breaker I found that I had forgotten about. I switched it and its working fine. My lousy memory once again caused me problems.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:02 PM   #8
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As far as I know there's only one circuit breaker in the whole camper. Glad I found it. Its what turned all the electric on. Fuses? Oh my. I would have no idea where they are.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:30 PM   #9
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While not related to your direct question, something you may not know being new to the camper.

I'm making an assumption your camper has a propane sensing alarm in it. And it may even have a TV attenna booster that often gets left on.

If your camper has the LP detector ( I thought even the old ones had one) they are wired direct and no, on/off switch. It you leave the battery connected when not camping and not plugged into 120 VAC, the LP detector will drain your battery after a week or 2. On campers that do not have a battery dosconnect, you need to unhook the (-) neg ground wire at the battery between trips. Yes I know a pain. Many add a battery disconnect switch to not be so painfull.

Also, if you have an old converter and storing the camper, leaving it plugged in to shore power to keep the battery charged can cook the battery dry. The old ones have no float mode to back off the charge and after weeks it boils out the battery
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Old 08-18-2014, 11:53 AM   #10
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This is a 1987 trailer! No sensors and no microwave unless a mod. by someone.

My 1996 doesn't have any sensors either. May have been an option by that time, although I think maybe about 1997 or so was when some of these items became more available.

By sensors, I'm talking about sensor central. The stuff on the wall that monitors tank full and battery status, etc. On my unit the smoke detector may or may not have been supplied from Sunline. It is a simple ceiling mount First alert which I just replaced. As for CO2 and LP none. I will have to supply...as I did all three on my 1983 T-1550.
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Old 08-19-2014, 01:20 AM   #11
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To John B , I don't think it has a LP detector.( hope not) If it does Is there a way to disconnect it so it doesn't drain the battery? Where would it be.? Last year I was in a campground at Lake Michigan for a week with electric hook up. That's the only place I ever camp with electric. I was on the road with it for 4 more weeks and I still had battery power that I would use the lights inside for a real short time just looking fast for some thing or another. And I used the little fan (which I Love) for just about 10 minutes about 5 times . I still had battery so the LP didn't drain it.But it does have fast easy clamp on one side of the battery to disconnect it fast. (probably negative. So that seems like maybe that's why it was on there so Im not sure.Heck. maybe I disconnected it I can't remember. I didn't remember about the circuit breaker in tell I looked around and found it.If I had the clamp off the negative on the battery am I correct in thinking that then the lights and fan would not have ran from battery power. I really need to find a owners manual. [/QUOTE] " Also, if you have an old converter and storing the camper, leaving it plugged in to shore power to keep the battery charged can cook the battery dry. The old ones have no float mode to back off the charge and after weeks it boils out the battery " Does that mean if I have it plugged into electric for a week at the campground I should disconnect the negative from the battery? Maybe just leave it connected the last day to charge up the battery ? It sounds like there is SO much I don't know about it. I appreciate the information.
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:37 AM   #12
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The old style chargers would indeed boil the water out of the battery but it is not an over night thing leaving it plugged in for a month or more could cause you some problems. No need to disconnect the cable during your camping adventure just long term storage. The older chargers actually had two systems in them one charged the battery the other made power for all the 12 volt stuff there was a relay inside that disconnected the battery and charged it at a low current level the other half of the system provided a much higher level of current to run all of the DC stuff.
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Old 08-19-2014, 08:52 AM   #13
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rivertrails,

In the file section download the brochure for your year. It will give you some info. For possibly more check the appliance sections.

http://www.sunlineclub.com/forums/do...o=file&id=5491
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Old 08-19-2014, 03:43 PM   #14
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QUOTE "If your camper has the LP detector ( I thought even the old ones had one) they are wired direct and no, on/off switch. It you leave the battery connected when not camping and not plugged into 120 VAC, the LP detector will drain your battery after a week or 2. On campers that do not have a battery dosconnect, you need to unhook the (-) neg ground wire at the battery between trips. Yes I know a pain. Many add a battery disconnect switch to not be so painfull."
My quick connect battery clamp is on the positive battery post. Not the negative. . I assume if I disconnect the positive instead of the negative it will still work to save battery power being drained in the day ( I dry camp, no electric) by theTo save battery power being drained in the day( I dry camp, no electric) by the LP detector. Maybe it does have a Lp detector I don't know. Does any one know how I can tell ? Id turn the fan on for a little while at night and then disconnect the positive cable from the battery. Quite un unnecessary bother if I don't even have a LIP detector that would be draining it. PS. bunjun, I got my canopy off! That was a big Relief. Thanks for the Brochure links.They seem useless to me. Mainly floor plans and such. No electric instruction. How to operate any thing. Heater. Water heater. Water pump ... I just carry water any way. Figure the water pump would drain my battery and I don't know how to drain well for winter. Ive tent camped before this and it doest really bother me.But I wish they had OWNER manuals that acually told you more stuff instead of just brochures.
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