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Old 07-24-2012, 01:08 PM   #1
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Can someone explain the water inlets?

Two ways with water, right? Hooked up and NOT hooked up to campground or city water.

So the first photo is for filling the "city water" and stays hooked up while camping?



And the second photo is when I fill the tank and am "off grid" at the camp?



I know nothing. So please help me too if you can by explaining the water pump switch near the sink.

thanks so much. This forum ROCKS.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:15 PM   #2
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The bottom photo is the inlet to fill your on board water tank. You take off the cap and pour the water in, either from a hose or a can. You'll probably need a funnel. Your on board water pump needs to be on when using the tank.

The top photo is your "city" water connection where you'd attach a "white" potable water hose from the campground (or your house) water supply to the trailer. You don't need your water pump when hooked up this way (pressure from hose supplies the water) BTW-You don't want to use a regular green garden hose, the water picks up a nasty flavor.

Three important things when hooking up direct:

1. Use a white potable water hose.
2. Use a pressure regulator.
3. Flush out the connection before hooking up. Bugs love the water pipe!!

There are two switches that control the water pump:

The switch near the sink is an on/off switch. The switch needs to be on when you need water out of the on-board tank. The second switch is a pressure switch on the pump. When you turn the first switch on, the pressure switch will sense the lack of pressure and turn the pump on. The pump will run until the pressure switch hits it's preset limit around 40 psi, then it will automatically turn the pump off. When you flow water (turn on a sink, flush the toilet) the pressure drops and the pressure switch turns the pump on until the flow stops and the pressure builds back up.

That explanation is probably clear as mud, so ask away if you need more info.

Mack
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:26 PM   #3
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Great, so I'll follow the spring start up guide for flushing out the connection? And as far as turning the switch on. I assume I turn it on just before I need to run water in the sink? Rather than running the pump all the time?
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Great, so I'll follow the spring start up guide for flushing out the connection?
Yes, follow that guide to sanitize the trailer water system.

When I referred to flushing out the connection, I was referring to the campground/home water spigot. I meant to turn the water on and run it for a minute or two without anything hooked up to it. Bugs like to crawl into the pipe when it's off!!!

Quote:
And as far as turning the switch on. I assume I turn it on just before I need to run water in the sink? Rather than running the pump all the time?
The pump switch can be left on, the pressure switch will only run the pump to maintain pressure, i.e. if no water is flowing there shouldn't be any loss of pressure, and the pump would not run. That being said, most people (including me) only turn the switch on when they are using water.

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Old 07-24-2012, 01:39 PM   #5
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Many thanks.
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MACK C-85 View Post
The bottom photo is the inlet to fill your on board water tank. You take off the cap and pour the water in, either from a hose or a can. You'll probably need a funnel. Your on board water pump needs to be on when using the tank.

The top photo is your "city" water connection where you'd attach a "white" potable water hose from the campground (or your house) water supply to the trailer. You don't need your water pump when hooked up this way (pressure from hose supplies the water) BTW-You don't want to use a regular green garden hose, the water picks up a nasty flavor.

Three important things when hooking up direct:

1. Use a white potable water hose.
2. Use a pressure regulator.
3. Flush out the connection before hooking up. Bugs love the water pipe!!

There are two switches that control the water pump:

The switch near the sink is an on/off switch. The switch needs to be on when you need water out of the on-board tank. The second switch is a pressure switch on the pump. When you turn the first switch on, the pressure switch will sense the lack of pressure and turn the pump on. The pump will run until the pressure switch hits it's preset limit around 40 psi, then it will automatically turn the pump off. When you flow water (turn on a sink, flush the toilet) the pressure drops and the pressure switch turns the pump on until the flow stops and the pressure builds back up.

That explanation is probably clear as mud, so ask away if you need more info.

Mack
Very well said!
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:50 PM   #7
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Hi Kit,

I think this was the Spring Startup Guide you where referring to, correct?

Sunline Coach Owner's Club - Sunline Owner's Files - Sunline Spring Startup Guide

In your case of a new to you camper you do not know what was in the campers water system before, it will need a sanitize treatment. While you may not yet drink from the fresh water tank, even bathing, teeth brushing or doing dishes needs a system sanitize. The bacteria level can be off the charts.

Here is some more help on sanitizing from our FAQ Articles section. Topic 2 with links.

Sunline Articles - “How To” and DIY (Do It Yourself) Links

If you need help or questions ask away. The 1st time doing a system sanitize can be a bit to figure it all out. However next time goes a lot easier. I also do the baking soda soak after the sanitize to help extract the chlorine smell/taste out of the plastic. Since you have never used the water system yet, before you do the bleach solution sanitize, try some plane clean water through the system to make sure everything works right. This way if you have a problem you do not have to deal with high chlorine solution water and a leak. Once it works right then go to the chlorine shock treatment.

A heads up on the water pump. Mack has you all fixed up with the "How To". I will add another useful tip.

It is OK to leave the pump turned on when you are at the camper, even if outside as you can still hear it near the camper. The pressure switch will shut the pump off when the pressure builds. Now the tip:

Tip: When you leave the camper to go for a walk, hike, into town etc. turn the pump "off".

I learned the hard way. We came back to a fairly new camper to the smell of hot electrical insulation. The tank was pretty low on water. The system needed to pressurize and the pump kicked on. Since the tank had only about 1 to 2" of water in it, it sucked air over the top of the waterline. We call this dry locking the pump. The pump lost water prime and then will run forever trying to build pressure before the pressure switch ever shuts off. When we can back to the camper and walked in, I smelt something right off. Oh boy...not good. I could not hear anything but a fine high pitched whine. Tracked it down to the pump running not stop for hours.

Lesson learned, shut it off when you leave. On a boondocking setup it could of burnt up the pump and drained the battery. Or just as bad, a fitting of faucet breaks and you have 20 gallons of water all inside the camper.

That pump was never the same after that. I ended up upgrading to a variable speed pump after getting fed up having to manually prime the old one that was only about 1 year old at the time.

Have a good trip, take pics, and let us know how it goes.

John
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:56 PM   #8
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There are two one way valves in the system. The hose connection has a valve that will not let water out but will let water in. The pump has a valve that will let water out but not in. What happens the hose connection has to stop water from coming out when the pumps is on and the pump has to stop water from filling your onboard tank when you are hooked up to city water. I like to turn the pump off unless I need water from the tank and when I'm done turn it back off 20+ gallons on the floor and a burnt out pump from a broken valve or line does not amuse me I also turn the tap off at the campground when I'm away.
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