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Old 01-06-2016, 10:06 AM   #1
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Adding an 110 outlet in bedroom

Hi folks, The bed in my T1850 is directly next to and above the exterior 110v outlet. My plan is to install another outlet facing indoors close to my bed, so I can plug in a lamp. I prefer the neatness of that as opposed to running an extension cord from the nearest outlet (which is on the other side of my refrigerator).

I don't anticipate too many challenges, I'll use 12-14ga electrical cable, and do the run as if in my house. But really, I'd prefer a 12V DC outlet at this proposed location because I can plug in a usb led light and get rid of the headlamp for reading at night, and charge my electronics.

Has anyone installed a 12v DC outlet and run power from the battery to the bedroom? I have one 12v dc outlet in the rig and it's right at the door, not the most convenient place.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:08 AM   #2
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Has anyone run DC power from the tail lights? Just a thought. And another thought, the bathroom is right next to the bed. The fan in there runs off 12V DC. Maybe that's a solution for a DC run to the bedroom wall.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:37 AM   #3
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Hi Kit,

The tail lights will not work like you would like them too. They are only powered when plugged into the truck. They do not connect to the camper battery. I'm assuming you want to do this when unhitched, so this option is out.

If I understand this right, your ideal goal is to get 12 volt outlet as you can use the low power outlet to run your charging devices that are already low voltage. If this is the case, I would see what we can do here verses putting the 120 VAC receptacle in.

I looked up your floor plan. It "looks" like the fridge is at the foot of the bed, is this correct? There is 12 volts at the fridge. That may be an option pending how many amps you need. I'm assuming a 94 camper has a fridge that uses 12 volts, has a light inside?

Or where is your power converter? By chance is it below the fridge? That would be the perfect spot for this if it was.

Do you know how many amps you need to charge? Look on the side of the charger, it should list amps or watts.

Hope this helps

John
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:39 AM   #4
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I feel stupid about this. Isn't it true that the light above my head in bed is running on 12V? Can't I replace the light with a 12v outlet? like the one I use at the side door to power my electronics? clear as mud?
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:41 AM   #5
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thanks John. My refrigerator is not 12V. Just propane or shore power.

Yes, correct: ideal goal is to get 12 volt outlet as you can use the low power outlet to run your charging devices that are already low voltage. If this is the case, I would see what we can do here verses putting the 120 VAC receptacle in.
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Old 01-06-2016, 10:58 AM   #6
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I think iPhone is 5V-1amp-5 watts
iPad is 5.1V-2amps=12 Watts
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Old 01-06-2016, 02:24 PM   #7
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I would add a 110V outlet and then get a plug in "block". The one I have passes 110 through to one outlet on the block and 2 usb outlets that are the 2.1A that will charge smart phones and iDevices. These are readily available at any hardware or big box stores.

You can also get a hardwired outlet to fit a standard 110 box, but there's lots of electronics in these things to get from 110 to usb power and the outlet will be too deep to fit a shallow box in an outside wall. Even the plug in block/adapter is about 1" deep, but that will stick out into your room and looks fine. I use one at home as well as the tt. The beauty of the block is that you can move it around to any 110 outlet that might be more convenient at other times of the day.
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Old 01-06-2016, 05:46 PM   #8
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The fridge has it's own 120 volt outlet. Code says you can not have 12 and 120 volt in the same box however you can buy an outlet with USB jacks because it is the outlet that makes the 5 volts. I have not seen a 12 volt DC outlet set up. Box extenders are pretty common if the big box does not have them an electrical supply will. If you need 12 volts there are plenty of wall wort 12 volt to cigar lighter power supply stuff that plug in. Most RV's use a special box that stabs through the cable as it runs through the box leaving no excess wire. The GFI and the fridge would be the only place you might be able to get power other than adding a breaker and a new circuit.
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photokit View Post
Isn't it true that the light above my head in bed is running on 12V? Can't I replace the light with a 12v outlet?
You can tie into the lighting circuit or replace the light with a cigarette style receptacle. This will give you 12 volts DC
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Photokit View Post
thanks John. My refrigerator is not 12V. Just propane or shore power.

Yes, correct: ideal goal is to get 12 volt outlet as you can use the low power outlet to run your charging devices that are already low voltage. If this is the case, I would see what we can do here verses putting the 120 VAC receptacle in.
Hi Kit,

Sorry I did not explain this well enough. If your fridge is LP and 120 VAC, then you have 12 VDC wiring at the fridge. An all LP fridge does not need any electricity. Gas valve does it all. But the combo fridges use 12 volts from the camper battery to run the controls boards and the gas valves. The 12 volt controls are used to switch the 120AC power on and off to the heating element.

Point is, you have a 12VDC source in that fridge cabinet. I noticed your floor re-do pic's. Wow, great job.

This pic shows the fridge.


In the back of the fridge is the 12 VDC wiring. At the foot of the bed, very close to the wall of the camper and on the side of the fridge cabinet there "might" be room to install one of those cigarette lighter receptacles and power it from the 12VDC source at the fridge control board area. The 2 devices you showed do not draw a lot of power.

This is an option if you want to go 12VDC

Hope this helps

Here is a pic of the 12VDC power coming to the LP gas and Shore power fridge. Yours is older then this, but should be similar. The 12 volt wiring is in the 2007 date area of the pic. A black and white wire. white is -12v (neg) and the black next to it is +12V (pos)






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Old 01-06-2016, 07:07 PM   #11
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Here are some pics of the wall outlet mainah was talking about that they use in campers. This is not like a outlet in your house with screws on the side.



The outlet just fits inside the wall cavity






In the pic above, that outlet was the end of the run. In many cases the wire comes and goes from the outlet to another outlet further down the line. These are not really made to "tie" into.

I'm not trying to talk you out of the 120VAC option, just showing what you are up against. The outside outlet looks like this. There is not enough room in the wall to covert it to a screw type receptacle as the box for them is deeper then the wall. It would hang outside the camper or you have to deal with it inside the camper sticking out. Again not impossible, just it may be easier to do the 12 volt option, either at the light over the bed or the fridge.

Good luck

John
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Old 01-06-2016, 07:11 PM   #12
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Here is what they do to get a GFI to fit in a camper wall. A special setup. Again this could work for the new wall outlet but to splice into the power at the outside you still have a depth problem and you need it weather tight.





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Old 01-07-2016, 07:51 AM   #13
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Camper wiring was made the way it is for two reasons, one they could teach and one how to wire them and two space restrictions. It really is all most easier to just add a new circuit. Here is an option for phone type chargers.
Leviton 15 Amp Decora Combination Duplex Receptacle and USB Charger - White-R02-T5632-0BW - The Home Depot
Or a DC one Dual USB Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Splitter 12V Charger Power Adapter Outlet | eBay
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Old 01-07-2016, 09:43 AM   #14
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Thanks so much fellas, I see my options, I have one of the Leviton 15 amp combo duplex w usb. I may use that one at the dinette and add usb to shore power.

For the bed area, I don't use the overhead light, even though I changed it to LED, I like the idea of tying into that and wiring up a DC cig lighter like this one.

Robot Check

and now that I've shopped the 12v receptacles, I may add one that reads the battery voltage. I have a Voltage reader on my charge controller but it would be nice to have one in the "house".

You guys rock it.
BTW, JohnB, I knew you'd be the king of research. Thanks for the photos, and I love my new floor, I'm copying you and buying a comfy office recliner to replace my dinette bench seat for indoor reading and hang time. I'm going to trim the dinette table just a bit (cut off the decorative edge) and give it a retro look with aluminum. I also added an lightweight metal backsplash at stove, magnets will be used to store spices. As you know, weight is often my consideration, I would love diamond plate on that front wall under the table but I think it may be too heavy.

Fondly, Kit
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