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05-14-2018, 06:54 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maine
Posts: 4
SUN #6107
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Added LED markers, but now they will not work
I have a 1987 Sunline Seville and I was sick of changing light bulbs and dealing with non-working lights. So, I decided to upgrade all exterior lights to LED's. I bought new LED markers and light bulbs only for the tail lights.
Prior to installation all lights functioned properly with the exception of a few blown out bulbs.
Typically prior to doing something like this I would adequately research, but I said to myself, come on how hard can it be positive to positive and negative to negative and problem solved..... Famous last words I know.
I removed the old markers and saw on the back of the fixture what was negative and what was positive and took for granted that they were correct and did not do any further testing. I took the two sets of wires which consisted of two green (positive) and two white (negative) and connected to the respective positive and negative on the new LEDs's wire nutted them together and resealed the lights to the camper. I have changed all markers accept for the last five on the rear of the camper. At this point, I figured to myself it would be a good idea to test them, which of course hindsight is always 20/20, I should of done this after I installed the first one.
This is where disaster strikes, I plug the camper into my tow vehicle and have no marker lights at all and now my reverse lights are on all the time with no other lights working at all (no blinkers, running lights, break lights, nada....). I did notice that the rear marker lights (the only ones I did not replace) did happen to come on when I shut my truck off and removed the keys, but they were the only ones and that was the only time they came on.
So, I am looking for suggestions on where to start to troubleshoot this problem and any help would be greatly appreciated?
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05-14-2018, 07:59 AM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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When swapping LED bulbs, they only work one way in a socket- so if they don't work, flip it around and try again. Maybe you just need to do that with these too, but with the wiring?
It's really odd how everything else isn't working though. I would think the LED just wouldn't light, and everything else would go unchanged.
If you have a spare new light, maybe try lighting it separately from the battery? Or go buy another to test with. Put what you think is positive on the positive post and negative on the negative. If it doesn't work, try flipping it and see if it does that way. Then you aren't tearing into your new sealant just to test something that might not be a problem.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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05-14-2018, 09:08 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maine
Posts: 4
SUN #6107
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Hey Sunline fan, I tested with a spare light and I am able to get it to light directly off the battery. I guess no matter what I am going to have to remove all the new lights, but any clue where I should start my trouble shooting?
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05-14-2018, 09:21 AM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,155
SUN #123
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Oh ok, so that's a good sign.
I would try working backwards then. Swap the regular bulbs back into the taillights and backup lights, to eliminate any problem with those bulbs. Since it's an easy thing to change, and the backup lights being on are especially suspect, then retest. But to clarify about the backup lights- I know some of the newer GM vehicles will turn the backup lights on when you unlock the doors- if you have one, are you sure you didn't hit unlock and cause the vehicle backup lights to come on too?
If still no difference, I would check the trailer light fuses on the tow vehicle, make sure everything is good there.
Another testing option is to use a big fuse and put it in the trailer plug, assuming you have a battery hooked up on the trailer. Go buy either a round fuse with the angled prongs to fit, or try to make a regular spade fuse fit. When looking at the trailer plug, hold it with the alignment bar on top. The top two sockets by that alignment bar are what you need. Stick the fuse in to connect those two. This is essentially connecting the trailer battery charge wire (which is back fed from the battery) and the running light circuit. This is how people light their lights in a campground, but it's helpful for testing too. This way, if that fuse blows, you know there's an issue with the trailer and have eliminated any issue with the tow vehicle. It's best to use a fuse for this so you don't blow anything else down the line.
If changing the taillight/backup bulbs and testing doesn't fix it, then I think you'll have to pull the clearance lights. Could be a wire nut came off and the wires are grounding out to something. Luckily since the clearance lights don't use the body to ground, you can leave them hanging out until they are all working correctly.
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2007 T-286SR Cherry/Granola, #6236, original owner, current mileage: 9473.8 (as of 6/18/21)
1997 T-2653 Blue Denim, #5471
1979 12 1/2' MC, Beige & Avocado, #4639
Past Sunlines: '97 T-2653 #5089, '94 T-2251, '86 T-1550, '94 T-2363, '98 T-270SR
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05-14-2018, 09:22 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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I'm a bit confused about the reverse lights they are not connected to anything else. Make sure the bulbs for the lights are of the right type 1156 or 1157 If put a twin pin bulb in the single pin socket (they will fit) same holds true for the single pin bulb this can cause a feed back issue. Usually a LED wired backwards does either one of two things it trashes it or it just doesn't light.
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05-14-2018, 11:10 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maine
Posts: 4
SUN #6107
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Sunline fan,
You were spot on about the reverse lights and GM, I was able to figure out that the lights were on due to the door being left open with the lights on so one problem down now I am working on checking all the connections for the clearance lights, but I have to take them all out first. Would the clearance lights not working also impact the other functions of the rear lights (blinkers, brake light, etc.)?
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05-14-2018, 12:11 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,357
SUN #2097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musial10
Sunline fan,
You were spot on about the reverse lights and GM, I was able to figure out that the lights were on due to the door being left open with the lights on so one problem down now I am working on checking all the connections for the clearance lights, but I have to take them all out first. Would the clearance lights not working also impact the other functions of the rear lights (blinkers, brake light, etc.)?
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Park lights yes, I would pull the tail light bulbs make the clearance light work first then so where you are.
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05-16-2018, 06:20 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maine
Posts: 4
SUN #6107
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After some troubleshooting I was able to track down the problem . The ground wire in the campers plug had come disconnected. Once I got the plug open noticed some rust so hit the contacts with steel wool and now all trailer lights are operational. I greatly appreciate everyone’s help!!!!
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07-10-2018, 06:02 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Maine
Posts: 1
SUN #5237
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I’m having some trailer light issues too and I’m prwtty sure it’s a grounding issue. Some work sometimes, and then sometimes they don’t. Was it your 7pin connector ground that was bad?
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