“A Happy Place II” - A Classic, 1984 Sunline T1750, 17ft Travel Trailer Camper

[bdichristina]

Dicor lapping caulk on the seams and Rustoleum primer and paint.

[Randy1974]

Thanks for answering!

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[Randy1974]

Another question. Did you use the self leveling caulk? Also that was a great job on the resto!

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[vcrt]

Amazing job on the first camper, ditto to all the comments praising the great work and thanks for the detailed photos.
Are you posting anything for the 2553?
Rich

[Jasondl21]

Hello,

I have a very similar camper i am tying to replace with the same tail lights you have on this model. Could you offer any information on how you wired the tail lights I am having issues getting mine to work properly?

Thanks
Jason

[bdichristina]

Jason;

If they are the same Bargman trailer lights, there are three colored wires. White is ground, Black is the brake & turn signal and Green was the running or tail light. I've heard of issues caused by bad grounds when attached directly to the chassis. Corrosion on the connection mostly. To prevent this, I ran a dedicated ground wire from all the lights back up to the junction box for the harness. This way I could make a solid ground connection to the chassis that was protected from the elements. Good luck!

[jazw33]

Hello!!
I have a 1985 (they said) but 1982 I have been told on here.
I have several questions!

I can't figure out how to get to the water tank, or lines under the sink. I can't figure out how to get the stove top out of the cabinet either.

When you put the fridge in how did you support it?

Thank you for the roof photos, now I know exactly how to tackle the roof. I have it in my garage now ready to do. Also the front door is rotten on the bottom, must be common problem.

[Sunline Fan]

Originally Posted by jazw33

I can't figure out how to get to the water tank, or lines under the sink. I can't figure out how to get the stove top out of the cabinet either.

Probably not easy to get to the water tank, other than through cabinet doors. I'm guessing the one door near the entry door will give you access to the water pump, and more or less the tank fittings too. The fill port and vent tube should just go right outside to the water fill, almost a straight shot.

The stove top should be pretty easy. Remove the burner grates and set them aside. Then lift up on the chrome or porcelain top, from the front edge. The lip is about 1/2" long. The top should lift right up with a little bit of force, possibly hooked in at the back somehow. If you can remove it and set it on the side, do so. There should be a few screws, maybe as few as two, on each side, going into the wood behind. You should be able to tell them apart because they are square head like everything else in the trailer. I'm not sure for the stove only units, but the gas line hookup is probably in there and fed in through a corner. Make sure your gas is off and purged before you disconnect it.

Originally Posted by jazw33

When you put the fridge in how did you support it?

You mean like in the process or after you get it in. It should be screwed in to the cabinet as well, and the cabinet has a floor in it that supports the weight. Make sure to disconnect the electric and gas on the back before removing it.

Originally Posted by jazw33

Thank you for the roof photos, now I know exactly how to tackle the roof. I have it in my garage now ready to do. Also the front door is rotten on the bottom, must be common problem.

Yes, door rot is a very common problem on all Sunlines through the mid '90s. It was a poor design that trapped water, so they will all rot eventually. Seal up the aluminum to the outside door skin with some silicone or putty tape when you reassemble to prevent a lot of water from still getting in and ruining your nice work.